nanochess

Thanks for a Christmas in advance

Eres Chilango?? Nop, mexiquense (Estado de México) justo a un lado del D.F.

I can understand you. When I started writing Zombie Near for MSX I've lost one time the initial source code, the good point is that when rewriting it I did it even better, now before every big change I save always a copy of the current source code, it has saved me a lot of time when looking for new bugs. I would suggest you to apply a disassembler to your binary, then trying to mix/match with the remaining of the source code.

Hola a todos. Nunca se me había ocurrido tener un Atari, pero de repente ya tengo dos , un Atari 2600 negro y un Atari 2600 Jr, ambos funcionando, los limpié y ya comencé una pequeña colección de cartuchos.http://www.atariage....__fromsearch__1 No olviden ver un muy buen tip mío para reparar los botones Select y Reset del Atari 2600 Jr. http://www.atariage....__fromsearch__1 Estoy pensando en vender el Atari 2600 negro porque me ocupa mucho espacio, con una palanca, los paddles, su fuente, el adaptador RCA a Coaxial y tres juegos, si a alguien le interesa puede mandarme un mensaje privado. También puedo vender el Atari solo si alguien quiere sacarle piezas para reparar el suyo. Preferentemente a alguien en el área metropolitana porque los envíos salen bastante caros.

A trick to have more sprites is to redefine sprites in every frame, I did this in Zombie Near, as there are two players (man and woman) with slightly different sprites, 4 directions by 4 frames = 16 sprites by two players = 32 sprites, almost half of sprite-table, the solution was to assign two fixed sprites redefined continuosly. And wait, there are big bosses, 2 directions by 4 sprites by 2 frames = 16 sprites, and one player can be fighting with one boss and the other with other different boss, so this is complicated... you can imagine it

Looking forward to have soon my very own Zombie Near in Colecovision cartridge.

Beautiful art, good work! Other idea could be a big-size poster, I'm sure a lot of people would like one for its Atari's room

More information about Nuvatec test board. Probably cartridge should be 32K (with A000 reading A0, C000 reading C0 and E000 reading E0). The 4 digit decimal counter of board is reset probably by power-on, it is incremented using address 2000, it will stay quiet on test failure, I'm sure about this because the access' count equals hardcoded ROM value. Still to decipher eleven writes to 4000, one read to 4000 and readings of controllers ports. Counter display 0000-0003 = ?? 0004 = Main BIOS checksum failure 0005 = Main RAM failure (FF filled) 0006 = Main RAM failure (00 filled) 0007 = Main RAM failure (70-73 filled per page) 0008 = Main RAM failure (upper 4 bits) 0009 = Main RAM failure (lower 4 bits) 0010 = Cartridge ROM failure at A000H (doesn't read A0) 0011 = Cartridge ROM failure at C000H (doesn't read C0) 0012 = Cartridge ROM failure at E000H (doesn't read E0) 0013 = Cartridge ROM failure at 9000H (doesn't read 90) 0014 = ?? 0015-0022 = Test controller 1 0023-0030 = Test controller 2 0031-0036 = ?? 0037 = Doing test of VRAM (00 filling) 0038 = VRAM failure bit 0 0039 = VRAM failure bit 1 0040 = VRAM failure bit 2 0041 = VRAM failure bit 3 0042 = VRAM failure bit 4 0043 = VRAM failure bit 5 0044 = VRAM failure bit 6 0045 = VRAM failure bit 7 0046 = Doing test of VRAM (FF filling) 0047 = VRAM failure bit 0 0048 = VRAM failure bit 1 0049 = VRAM failure bit 2 0050 = VRAM failure bit 3 0051 = VRAM failure bit 4 0052 = VRAM failure bit 5 0053 = VRAM failure bit 6 0054 = VRAM failure bit 7 0055 = VRAM failure (0000-00FF doesn't read 00) ... 0118 = VRAM failure (3F00-3FFF doesn't read 3F) 0119 = VRAM failure (bits 7-4 fail at 0000-000F) ... 1142 = VRAM failure (bits 7-4 fail at 3FF0-3FFF) 1143 = VRAM failure (bits 0-3 fail at 0000-000F) ... 2166 = VRAM failure (bits 0-3 fail at 3FF0-3FFF) 2167 to 2176 = related to NMI testing 2177 = PSG channel 1 failure 2178 = PSG channel 2 failure 2179 = PSG channel 3 failure 2180 = PSG channel 4 failure 2181 = Success!. Colecovision working fine At the end the Colecovision Final Test is better as it doesn't require an external hardware.

High-resolution scans of Fire Bird (Taiwanese Cooper), 300 DPI.

It was me who modified this modded bios rom file. It was in a thread about modding by changing the OS in ColecoVision in order to skip the title screen, and I've decided to make the ROM file properly set as a PAL version by changing the value 60 for 50 at the address memory $0069, which is, based on the Coleco documentation, where the frequency value is hardcoded... and it's named AMERICA in the OS7 BIOS Complete listing, which is weird but... Anyway, mystery solved! Thanks NIAD and newcoleco for the info, maybe simply Colecovision was sold unchanged everywhere and games were adapted, or Donkey Kong runs slower in Europe

Hi. Does anyone have a dump of a Colecovision ROM for Europe 50hz? (BIOS location 0069H = 32H), every ROM site has only the 60 hz version. Just wondering if it exists. Thanks in advance.

I was thinking about pretty complicated ways to repair the Select/Reset buttons (doing drilling and putting some buttons, using SMD buttons, putting wires with stick and others). I asked for some help from my father, he used to repair electronics, and he came out with a novel way to repair Select/Reset buttons, as the buttons strip had one part uncovered and with very bad conductivity (oxide?, maybe because of environment and/or time), and the other covered part had very good conductivity, he raised slightly the cover and inserted three cables that then were soldered to the PCB, the buttons works great now! 8-) and I didn't had to drill the case . Find annex some pictures if someone wants to do the same .

Them simply didn't worked, black screen with vertical red line at left, and vertical green line at right.

I did a small analysis of the Go-No-go ROM, appears that it requires an external hardware connected in the expansion port as it writes to 2000H and 4000H, then it waits for automatic response from Controller Port 2 (no human could do it fast enough). It tests ROM, RAM, audio, video RAM, even some things that probably emulators would not do correctly (like reading A000H and waiting ro read A0H, C000H - C0H and so). At the end I found a final routine, at 8835H (using BlueMSX, pause emulation, change PC, unpause emulation; for ROM change start address in bytes 800AH / 800BH), then it will play a small music, then puts colour bars in screen and some messages. This missing external hardware probably has four digits leds and a cable to connect it to Controller Port 2. I hope this info is useful for everybody.

Hi everybody, just after a while I discovered that Select/Reset buttons of my Atari 2600 Jr aren't working, there is an easy way of repairing them? Thanks in advance.

I've buyed other eight cartridges, four are Taiwanese bootlegs. o Little Bear. o River Raid. o Fantastic Game (32 in 1), not working. o Tooth Brush, not working. o Mountain King. o Dark Chambers (pretty good state) o Amidar o Fire Fly (apparently sun borrowed colors) Tooth Brush and Fantastic Game aren't working. I'm thinking about replacing oxidized screws with new screws. Not able to test further with my non-working Reset/Select buttons.

Using a lot of isopropilic alcohol I've managed to get working the other four cartridges , now I've discovered that the Select/Reset buttons of my Atari doesn't work . Seesaw looks like Atari Circus, but has man changed to a clown, and Fire Bird is like Demon Attack but with the original logo removed, now I'm pretty sure both are Taiwanese bootlegs, PCB is yellowish with plated lines. On the other way I've reopened Tanque Robot and took a picture of PCB, looks original, gold plated.

It appears to be original, as the screws are exposed I've removed them, the PCB is green with mask, white letters and it has a small microchip covered with epoxy.

I've checked it again, it says "FIRE BIRD" in top label, I overlooked the space, no further info available. The game itself doesn't look like Megamania, it has several blue birds flying in different lines shooting the magenta ship in bottom, when a bird is destroyed it "regenerates" from left and right of screen, when the ship is destroyed it explodes like fireworks. Your description of "Fire Bird" sounds like Demon Attack to me. Yes, it looks like Demon Attack but I don't remember to see the logo, I will check it again later.

That's a pretty good idea

I've checked it again, it says "FIRE BIRD" in top label, I overlooked the space, no further info available. The game itself doesn't look like Megamania, it has several blue birds flying in different lines shooting the magenta ship in bottom, when a bird is destroyed it "regenerates" from left and right of screen, when the ship is destroyed it explodes like fireworks. And the picture of my Atari, I buyed it for US$3, no joysticks/cables/power supply, it was brown of dust, I've cleaned it though still some dust in wrinkles, you can see my modification with the RCA Jacks for video/audio, I didn't make any holes in case. The case has a crack underneath from center to top, someone sit over it , fortunately the PCB is all right and pretty clean .

Hi everybody, I now had an Atari 2600 Jr, I've made the composite video adaptation and finally I've buyed my first Atari cartridges at a flea market, I've got: Tanque Robot (not working, missing half top label) Seesaw (not working, slightly smaller) Firebird Keystone Kapers (not working) Taz Real Football Yars Revenge Sky Jinks (not working) At the Atariage's database doesn't appear sticker info of Tanque Robot, Seesaw or Firebird, so find annex a big photo, and a small photo of each others.

Technically is easier to simply reinit on trigger bullet vars in memory, maybe the programmer was still learning.

I will take as good the 6 million number, thanks for the info. Per Youki answer there would be only four Colecovision

Hi everybody, this is my first topic post. Wikipedia says that Colecovision sold two million units, while colecovision.dk says it sold six million units, what is the correct number? Just for my records. Thanks in advance