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About dino999

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    Star Raider
  1. Is this RF interference? If so, could you build some sort of shielding around the DC-DC to prevent the noise? Yeah, the more I've soldered and de-soldered a point on a board (any device or component, not specifically Sega Genesis), I've noticed there was a tendency for pads to flake off. There might be a way to fix stuff like that, but I'm not that experienced.
  2. Traco! That's it. I recognize the name. The modder wrote or talked about installing them into all his consoles. It's horrible about the noise issue. I'll have to research if that can be eliminated. So these DC-DC switching regulator don't need a heatsink. Neat. What other consoles did you replace the voltage regulator with the DC-DC switching regulator? Did you have any issues with model 2 Sega Genesis (if you tried those)? Was it only the model 1 Sega Genesis and TurboDuo that had noise issues? When you state "logic noise," do you mean that there is fluctuating voltage along the circuit and that is causing the issues? This may seem obvious, but could that damage some of the chips or other components?
  3. Were you the guy who posted the article or videos? If so, I'd love to have the link. Either way, could you give me some examples of the parts I would need or those you would recommend?
  4. Years ago, I ran a search on NES gets really hot after playing (or similar terms) when I noticed the back-right section which takes in power gets really hot. I came across a site, blog, or video about a guy who was going through all of his consoles and replacing the capacitors with a specific type of capacitor that was not the cylindrical type. I believe this guy replaced all of his consoles with capacitors that are box-shaped. He tested the output and reported they were running cooler and I believe drawing less power. I wasn't handy with a soldering iron then so I bookmarked the site and moved on or so I thought. I can't find the bookmark to the blog or video series. If anyone knows what website my failing memory is bubbling up, I would like the link. Does anyone know of capacitors that run cooler than the typical cylindrical ones? I may be conflating two memories, but I think they were similar to those in this Vectrex cap kit: https://console5.com/store/vectrex-integrator-cap-kit.html I remember the guy removing shielding from the power area of the NES and other consoles, stating it wasn't needed with these types of caps because they ran so cool. The site or videos has to be at least five years old. I think I discovered it between in 2011-2014.
  5. It seems strange that I didn't adjust the default TV settings for the coax input. Most of the other games I own have a discernible image. My Atari 2600 is even more clear and bright on the same input. Nonetheless, I still feel silly that I didn't try it. I increased the brightness from 50 to 80 and now the image is good. Hnh, I didn't know the bases in Space Invaders have a shifting rainbow pattern. Neat. I still think there is something weak about the output given the 2600 looks great at the default settings. Could this brighten the picture? What does it actually do to the components? Does it cause some component to draw more current? I know I may be stepping ahead, but could replacing the voltage regulators improve the picture? In my search for info to help with the repair, I found this video where the voltage regulators and their heatsink are removed and replaced: I only ask since I remember reading something about a faulty NES voltage regulator (same type used in the 5200) causing some similar problems.
  6. I am using the female phono jack to male coax adapter to connect to my TV. I tested channels 2, 3, and 4, using both circle and square settings of the switch on the back of the system. The video performance did not improve. Here is a screenshot of Space Invaders. Click on it to see the extremely large original image. It's very dim. You can barely see the last row of aliens. Forget seeing their lasers. They're lost in the ether.
  7. My two-port 5200 has a weak video signal. Besides the static, it's so dim that I can't see some images in games like enemy bullets in Space Invaders. Does anyone have any recommendations for troubleshooting? Would composite or s-video mod bypass any problem this RF video is having? I've already swapped A5 (GTIA) and A3 (ANTIC) with known working replacements. They didn't change anything. I took pictures of the board here --> https://imgur.com/a/QOO9QoW Here are thumbnails. Click on them to get a really big picture to open in a new tab.
  8. Awesome. Thank you. Do I need to use heatsink clips when soldering in replacements?
  9. I'm still looking for answers. I thought you could determine where those parts are located on the board due to their proximity to the A26 chip and power LED. I could post a wider shot of the 5200 motherboard if anyone needs it.
  10. I need to replace the two parts indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below. Yes, I realize the A26 chip is wrongly oriented. To be more specific, I am referring to the turquoise and mustard yellow parts. They are some type of capacitors, correct? If you know the type and specifications of each, please be specific when describing the parts I should get. Also, should I use alligator clip heat sinks when soldering in the replacements? Link to full resolution pic --> http://i.imgur.com/dJmLSgI.jpg
  11. Whether the system boots or not is an obvious indication of a replaced chip's functionality. However, I've read (as SoundGammon stated above) that your system can boot yet have problems with certain games caused by certain faulty socketed chips. These are the games I currently own: Berzerk, Galaxian, Pac-Man, Pole Position, River Raid, Space Invaders, Super Breakout. What should I look for when booting each game when determining if a chip has faults? For example, if the POKEY is bad, do ships in Space Invaders move strangely? If a memory chip is bad, is Pac-Man a garbled mess of pixels? These are just fictional examples, but I think you get the point.
  12. I removed the controller port cover. I think I noticed the two tabs / catches you mentioned. One is just below the 5200 rainbow logo and the other is just left of the power button. Is that correct? I'm not sure how I would pry them away from the console. They don't look like they fit into a gap on the plastic. They look fully exposed. Also, it looks like prying them might chip the surface layer of the silver bezel. I do have thin flat head screwdrivers that I could use as levers. Is there any pressure / levering I need to do on the left and right sides of the silver bezel?
  13. I am not sure if this the Atari 5200 system bezel is glued on or locked into place with tabs. Is it possible to remove it for cleaning then replace it without damaging it or the system?
  14. I've got a working 5200 (yes!!). I have several of the socketed chips (memory, ANTIC, GTIA, etc.) loose in unknown working condition. Will popping them into my working 5200 possibly cause any damage to the other components in the system? I thought I could test each of those loose chips.
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