dino999

Thank you for confirming this. Regarding the CD4013, I've read threads that state the power state being stuck to ON wasn't a big issue and that I shouldn't have to replace it. Are you saying I should replace the CD4013 as well?

I expected a more mature reply from AA members. Maybe due to this thread calling attention to my issue, AA member zylon gave an informative reply to the thread I posted there last week.

I realize there is a dedicated 5200 forum; however, I posted this issue there and haven't received firm answers. I'm posting in the 2600 forum since it always seems to get more play. My issue: Atari 5200 2-port -Black screen when system turns on -Power light remains on even when pressing power button (power adapter must be unplugged to power down) -All chips except the A26, CD4013, test fine at around 5V. The CD4013 runs at around 10.455V maybe 10.6V (it depends how I situate test probe) On page 4A-2 of the field service manual, it states I should test A2 pin 40. I put my ground lead on pin 1 and the red on 40. It read around 0V. The guide says I have a defective A1 chip. It then says I can repair or replace it before re-testing all the chips. How do I repair the chip? Furthermore, if I can not repair the chip as described in the manual, would this be a suitable replacement? http://www.ebay.com/itm/251907497044 I am unsure how to read these chips. I just typed CD4050BCN in the search and found this one for sale. The full designation I see on my chip is: +I8302 <--That's the letter I as in igloo after the plus symbol CD4050BCN MM5650BN I don't know whether the other lines are superfluous are actually are important when seeking a replacement chip. Again, apologies, but I thought I might receive a more expedient reply by posting in the 2600 forum.

It may be repairable but the guide does not detail the process. Can anyone confirm this is a valid replacement for the A1 chip in the 2-port 5200? http://www.ebay.com/itm/251907497044 I am unsure how to read these chips. I just typed CD4050BCN in the search and found this one for sale. The full designation I see on my chip is: +I8302 <--That's the letter I as in igloo after the plus symbol CD4050BCN MM5650BN I don't know whether the other lines are superfluous are actually are important when seeking a replacement chip.

Atari 5200 2-port -Black screen when system turns on -Power light remains on even when pressing power button (power adapter must be unplugged to power down) -All chips except the A26, CD4013, test fine at around 5V. The CD4013 runs at around 10.455V maybe 10.6V (it depends how I situate test probe) On page 4A-2 of the field service manual, it states I should test A2 pin 40. I put my ground lead on pin 1 and the red on 40. It read around 0V. The guide says I have a defective A1 chip. It then says I can repair or replace it before re-testing all the chips. How do I repair the chip?

Has anyone used these for two port Atari 5200s? http://console5.com/store/16kb-x-1-bit-dram-mb8118-12.html If I exchange one or two of my RAM chips with this, can they operate with the rest of the factory RAM installed in the 5200? Are there different RAM installed in the 4-port vs the 2-port? What are the model numbers of the 2-port RAM chips and 4-port RAM chips? Finally, would an Atari 8-bit computer like a 130xe have RAM that is compatible with the two port 5200?

Even though I've seen cheap 1080p scalers, I don't believe adding one to the box would keep it cheap, especially if you want to avoid collector community rage / disappointment. I'd like to see something that would pull out all the bells and whistles and go with something like a FPGA. As others mentioned, I think it would be necessary to support 5200, 7800, Intv, and Coleco games to be a true golden age Retron. If they did support 5200, Intv, etc, they would also have to develop compatible controllers for gamers who don't have them. I'd imagine like the other clone consoles, they would support original controllers. That probably would drive up cost as well.

Those are horrible prices, especially since they are not mailing a big, heavy 5200 system. Prices on ebay have shot up for 5200s but I think the main reason is to cover shipping.

For what kind of trades are you looking--hardware, software, memorabilia, etc.?

If I can avoid soldering and screwing up something, I will. All the chips that are problematic for my system are socketed. Somehow by just testing my system, that flip-flop chip broke, and now the system remains powered on unless I unplug the cord. Yes, this is a two port.

There's a chip inside the 5200 which prevents the power button from working. If the AC adapter is plugged in, the power is on even before pressing the power switch and stays on even if the power switch is pressed. If I were to replace all the socketed chips in a 5200, including the RAM chips. before replacing that broken power chip, would it destroy the new replacement chips? Can I avoid replacing the broken power chip?

Wow. I was worried of such things. Thank you for the warning.

As an alternative could I use electrical tape over each of the soldered wires and then wrap electrical tape around the whole thing? Why is that? I haven't been soldering long so I haven't picked up much skepticism.

I have two 2600 power supplies. One has a completely wrecked tip that is unsalvageable. The other has a perfect tip but the power supply itself is kaputt. I stripped the wires and one has copper strands beneath the shielding. The other is a silver color which I believe is tin but I am not sure. Would soldering these two together be unadvisable (ie. potential for fire, melting cable, destroying the 2600 to which it is connected, etc)? Also, in cases like this where there is possibly a break in the cable and you shorten and solder together two different points or different cables entirely, is there a way to tell which is ground and which is positive?

Thanks SpiceWare. I knew it had to be game-specific as I tried two Popeye carts and I know for a fact that one of them worked find on my old LCD TV. Besides getting a new TV (or old one), is there another solution to this problem? Do composite, s-video, or other video mods solve this problem for all modern LCD TVs? If so, would I be sacrificing anything by doing so?

I actually believe the design is better. The switches take a little getting used to as they don't provide that tactile clunk the original boxes do. I find the design makes it easier to get inside the box as those angled screws on the back aren't there. If only Atari modernized the system by putting controller ports in front--stubborn Atari. The one I found at a garage sale five years ago has incredibly clear picture and sound. That may be due to its age as I can't imagine the barns, garages, basements, etc in whch I found others were any better at protecting electronics.

Today I tested a vader 2600 and the games with which it came. Of the games it came with, Popeye seems to make the screen scroll uncontrollably. I realized that I hadn't played the copy of this game I already owned since I got my new LCD TV (Samsung LN-T2653H). This game has no issue on my previous LCD (LG 20LS7D). I went through some other games and none displayed this issue. Strangely after booting the console several times, once the image was perfect. I also tested Popeye specifically on my light 4-switch woodgrain and the same TV. It also displayed this problem. Could this be a signal strength issue? Are there any known tricks, amplifiers, etc. that could remedy this? I enabled an option in the Samsung TV's menu called Low Noise Amplifier (LNA) that does not improve the situation.

Awesome! Thank you all for your information.

Combat was the pack-in for the Atari VCS. Did the game come as cart only or was it complete in its own box as if it were a retail release?

These reasons are the most plausible. I am in the USA, using USA / NTSC cartridges, on a LCD TV. I do not have a CRT to test. I figured there was some graphical technique the program was using that caused the error since it happened on two different systems and two different cartridges. This is the only cart I have ever encountered which gives me trouble on my LCD, though I have not tested the system on all my LCDs.

Ha, nice. I didn't know the Sears releases were renamed. None of the carts I have ever come across have different names. This is the first.

I tried two different cartridges on two different consoles (light four switch and a 2600 jr). They both exhibit the issue which is strange. It is possible that both consoles or both cartridges share the problem.

Thank you for the estimate. I was also wondering if there was an Atari release for the same game. I can only find info on Dare Diver released under the Sears Tele-Games label.

I found Superman for the 2600 recently. The game displayed in full color when I powered on the system. I pressed a button to start the game then Superman flew into a phone booth and changed into Kent. At that moment, the screen colors changed to just black and white, and the game continued. I moved Kent back into the booth and the game still continued in black and white. I tested another Superman cart (different label), and it did the same thing. I'm thinking one of the hardware modes or one of the Atari's chips is broken. No other game I have switches to black and white during gameplay. I did play using a Genesis controller. I will try using an official 2600 joystick, but I doubt that will change anything. What could be the problem? UPDATE: I just tested using my Atari jr with the Genesis controller and official Atari controller. I got the same black and white screen changing effect. I just tested using my Atari 2600 with the official. I got the same black and white screen changing effect.

I moved this topic from the Rarity Guide since that sub-forum doesn't seem to get as much love I was wondering what value for a complete in box Dare Diver on the 2600? Cart, labels, and manual are in great condition. Box has some rubbed corners and wrinkling on flaps but no tears, writing, water damage, color fading, etc. Was there ever a non-Sears Tele-Games release? http://i.imgur.com/ZKVI0Yl.jpg <<<<< Larger picture