dino999

What is the value for a CIB Dare Diver on the 2600? Cart, labels, and manual are in great condition. Box has some rubbed corners and wrinkling on flaps but no tears, writing, water damage, color fading, etc. Was there ever a non-Sears Tele-Games release? Here is a link to a larger image>>> http://i.imgur.com/ZKVI0Yl.jpg

Great, thanks. All the RAM chips are interchangeable as well, correct?

Wow, thanks guys. I would never have thought to ask Radio Shack employees to do soldering. That seems a little odd. Maybe I'll give that a try

I have a four port and two port 5200. Which chips, ram, etc, can be swapped from the four port to the two port? I remember reading the two port has some incompatibilities with some games (I have no idea which games). Obviously there was a BIOS change since there are two less controller ports, but if all chips were swapped from the four to the two-port, would everything work ok?

bohoki: Care to share the adapter you use? Pictures would be great. Even if you don't think the adapter or controller is available. If I understand you correctly, you don't have a replacement for the keypad. To everyone else, does anyone use the 2600 video touch pad with some sort of adapter to avoid using the troublesome 5200 sticks?

Where would I get a replacement port? Of course this would involve de-soldering and re-soldering, of which I have no experience.

Has anyone used the Star Raiders video touch pad for the 2600 as a keypad replacement with an Atari 5200 Y-cable like this one: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FATARI-5200-Y-CABLE-TO-USE-YOUR-2600-PADDLE-CONTROLLER-TO-PLAY-KABOOM-%2F281086033705%3Fpt%3DVideo_Games_Accessories%26hash%3Ditem4172087f29 If so, would I just hook up a Sega Genesis pad to the first port and the video touch pad to the second port?

Yes, the stock cable does fit well. The only reason I opened it up was because I found an adapter that would fit the port and I could use a standard coax cable. Yes, I do know about the F-type connector that connects basically hooks onto the end of the stock cable. The reason I persevere is that the picture is way too static-y using the standard cable and from my experiment with the rigid cable (just a standard composite cable with nice shielding), the picture cleared up immensely. I would like some insight into those small white pieces though. Also the metal siding on the interior of the port can be pried away and pushed back into place. I mention this because I have no idea if this is causing the static.

I've always had trouble getting a clear picture on my 4-switch 2600. I opened up the case and replaced the cable and got a much more clear picture, but it was loose and could fall out of the cable input on the board if rattled and could not fit with the top cover of the case on since the cable was too rigid. I thought maybe the static might be due to the original cable having little insulation but then I noticed some small white pieces hanging below the cable port that is raised from the motherboard. Let me explain. I am also attaching two images for clarification. The cable plugs into a port on the motherboard. This port is raised a bit, standing on two legs. What I was seeing was two small chiclet (like the gum) pieces that would slide around the edge of the inner surface of the port's cylindrical shape. What I think is there are three layers to the port: an outer metallic layer that surrounds the cylinder and is attached to the two legs, an inner ring of insulation material - the white (maybe ceramic) chiclet pieces pieces, and finally the inner surface which again is conductive metal. Are these chiclet pieces insulation material that have become loose and because of this, there is static? The pieces can move freely if tapped with a toothpick or due to gravity. Click on the pictures to enlarge them. The port (side view) attached to motherboard below Actual image of the port but the chiclet pieces have slid to the back side and are only visible using a small mirror I placed behind the port.

Ok, I'll have my eyes open for this adapter. Thanks.

What golden Radio To what golden RadioShack RF adapter are you referring? I would really like to see the picture improve without soldering anything as I have no experience with that.

So these boxes ONLY take a digital signal in? Also can someone address whether going through a VCR or similar device would clear up any of the static from the RF?

I saw this digital tv tuner box at a thrift shop today. I thought it might be useful to convert the RF signal from the atari to composite. I'm not sure if this would work - hooking up an analog RF input from the atari to the digital (ATSC) coax input on the converter box and then hooking up composite from the box to the TV. I was hoping that by using this box (if it did work), it would clean up some of the signal interference (static) that presents itself in the video and audio signals. Has anybody done this? Would it clean up the signal? I know I can use a VCR to accomplish something similar, however, those a huge and I would never use the VHS video playing functionality.

By "in right position," you mean their correct original position?? I just want clarification on your wording

Where do I test and how should I test whether power is being sent to either channel? Where is the junction point?

Anyone? Looking for advice on how to proceed. Can it be fixed? Anyone have a similar situation? Really like a working 5200 2-port

Ok, back at this after a month doing work Anyways. I check the voltage of all ICs and got around 4.9v for most of them. Unfortunately, A7 failed. I also have a bunch of other chip failures reading around 0V; A14 through A25; A27 is good, though. I have no idea how to test A26 since the manual I found on the internet left this one as a mystery. I was thinking. Might the string of failures from A14 through A25 have something to do with my scratched traces. The one trace I was able to test and continuity was good. The other I am kinda guessing at because it goes to the underside of the board (I think) and I didn't take off the bottom shield. I included a higher resolution image as well as the original scratch for a side by side comparison.

Ha! Ha! That will be fun to fix once I get to the point of seeing stuff onscreen.

I probably should have mentioned this earlier. Before I replaced the GTIA and ANTIC, I opened up the case and moved two dials (yellow and green circular things) located on the lower right end of the motherboard (pictured in the attachment to this post). I tried to get them into the same orientation, but I don't know if I screwed up something else. Just to clarify: the screen was already solid black when the system was turned on before I did this.

How could I determine if it was working correctly?

Could you show me with a picture of where I should check voltage? Should I power the console on when check the voltage?

Ok. I replaced the GTIA with a guaranteed working 5200 GTIA. I turn on the system with game and controller plugged into it. I still get a black screen. I put back the old GTIA, and replaced the ANTIC with a guaranteed working 5200 ANTIC. I turn on the system with game and controller plugged into it. I still get a black screen. I replaced both GTIA and ANTIC with working versions and I still get a black screen. Anyone have ideas on what the problem is or what my next step should be?

Thanks. I just wanted to know if these were conversions or homebrew. I figured I could get them much cheaper elsewhere. I mean everyone knows that the versions of Xevious for NES is much better than the atari 8-bit proto could ever be especially since Xevious for NES is a complete game.

Spy Hunter: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 350482289982 Xevious: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 350482289830 Have any of you seen these reproduced as homebrew at conventions and such? The AtariAge guide lists Xevious as a prototype only.

Darn't I did not look at the GTIA chip when I removed it from my 2-port NTSC Atari 5200. I thought all pins were inserted. Is there a way to tell whether all the pins should be inserted in my unit?