ApolloBoy

LOL bet you're regretting not putting out DIY kits now

Either you have a thin cable with poor (or no) shielding or your SCART converter doesn't like the 2600RGB's output. I have an OSSC and it works great with the 2600RGB, no interference problems.

Get an F18A and an OSSC. Done.

My guess is because the TG-16's expansion port has a slightly different shape compared to the PCE. It's the exact same pinout on both systems but the TG-16 has a trapezoidal connector whereas the PCE is rectangular.

Yeah, I really don't understand why you feel the need to type in a gigantic font. And as Osgeld mentioned, ditch the history lessons in your posts because I've noticed you often get facts wrong and frankly, nobody cares.

This whole thing makes zero sense.

It's still available, and it gives you component video if you want that instead: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/258702-new-development-gtia-in-cpld/

Save your gas money.

Yeahhh it's definitely a Light Sixer, here's what the backs of each look like; Light Sixer's on the top, Heavy Sixer on the bottom.

Well that's not really a new discovery, that's been known since the 90s IIRC.

Try cleaning out the power switch, it's usually the number one problem with CVs and it can cause graphical glitching if it's dirty.

Those are awesome, my C64C case is pretty yellowed so I'll definitely look into getting one. Question is, which one to choose...

Here's an example of a 2600RGB mod on a Jr., since nobody hasn't really shown one in this thread yet. Tim's guide recommends mounting the connectors on the side, but I decided to go for a more challenging install and mounted them on the back. I removed the RF jack, widened the cutout for it and then mounted an 8-pin mini-DIN jack in its place. I had to do a bit of trimming on the top half as well, but the nice thing is that the top shell puts a bit of pressure on the mini-DIN and adds more rigidity. The pause/palette selection button is mounted where the channel select used to be.

You say the Xbox One S is the best game console and yet you haven't even played one? ??? Also the LaserActive is more of a collector's item honestly, there's really not a lot of Mega LD games worth playing and the entire setup is incredibly bulky. Plus the Sega PAC doesn't output RGB without modification, isn't compatible with the 32X or Power Base Converter (although the latter is largely due to physical reasons), and they suffer from leaky capacitors.

Why do you keep doing this? Also your 7800 sales figure is complete bullshit, it's actually close to 4 million (at least in the US). Hell the 7800 was able to sell nearly three times that amount you quoted in 1986 alone. If you're gonna give a history lesson with all of your posts, for gods sake get your facts right!

It should work on a 1200XL just fine, it even works on a 5200 without any problems.

I've never had a problem with interference surprisingly enough, plus I've got a number of Japanese consoles that never had shielding to begin with.

Isn't that more because of what you have plugged in alongside the system though? If you plug in something like a cheap USB charger it'll create interference like that.

I tossed most of the shielding in my consoles, it's unnecessary and it's one step less if I need to make repairs or add mods in the future.

You know you could've sold it to someone as a parts console instead of needlessly destroying it, right? You actually could've saved it had you adjusted the laser bias and voltage, it's not hard to do...

Hey that's only 551,573 away from being #34!

That was an 8bitdomain project years ago, I remember it being kind of a big deal and then all of a sudden nothing came of it. In fact here's a thread touching on that from nearly 10 years ago: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/120897-who-here-in-atari-age-has-received-the-7800-adapter-from-8bit-domain

Isn't resin fairly fragile though?