31336haxx0r

Your Jr. may(!) have a broken RIOT chip. I'd only look into that if all other things fail. Also, check the voltage after the voltage regulator. It must be 5V +-5%.

So PAL Heavy Sixers really DO exist?! I always thought there were only Light Sixers in PAL.

There are step-by-step instructions out there in the web describing how to mod it for external switch mode PSUs. I used to be familiar with the Intel MCS-48 family. But I forgot almost everything by now. Now what I always wanted to know, can I use a 8042 that was used as a keyboard controller in old PCs in the XF551?

Okay, then we were talking about the same thing.

Yes, but it's AC. So peak voltage is square root of 2 multiplied with the mean voltage ov 9 V. Isn't it?

You mention the voltage doubler circuit, then ignore it when calculating the voltage supply to the 7812. During one part of the phase current from ground flows through D2 charging C102 to about 8V, when the polarity reverses there will be about 17V(9V+8V) at the C102+ terminal, current then flows through D3 to charge C104/C106 to about 16V, this is subtracting 1V for each diode and not multiplying by 1.41. Once charged C104 contains enough energy to keep the 7812 output steady at the designed current draw. It may not be efficient but it is simple and does the job. Why only 8V?

Double post, please remove.

Uuuuuuuhhhhhhhhggggggghhhhhhhhhh, they used that voltage doubler circuit (forgot its name) in a modified form to supply the 7812. It works, but you can't draw that much power. Now that I think of it, 9V * 1.41 = 12,69V, which is too low for a 7812 to work and quite high for a 7805. Substract 0.6 Volts forward voltage drop for each diode in the way and you get even lower. I'd say let's NEVER EVER replicate the stock PS design and use some better stuff instead!

Those are indeed transistors. They probably buffer some signals. STs don't have a 8 pin DIN connector for monitor/TV output. They use a 13 pin DIN connector. According to the photos this thing gets +5V and +12V. Hmmm....

What's written on those metal cans? They could be transistors.

All went smooth. Will deal again, anytime.

Actually, it's less expensive to use a wall wart PSU. If one would clone the XF's or 1050's power supply, you'd need the following: - transformer with 9VAC, 3 amps - bridge rectifiers - at least 3 electrolytic capacitors - at least 4 ceramic capacitors - 7805KC and 7812KC ICs (that KC suffix is important) For the cost of all that, you could buy several wall wart PSUs with the added advantage that those don't get nearly as hot and consume much less power.

Look at this: http://old.pinouts.ru/Video/Cm8CoCoRGB_pinout.shtml You have RGB, HSYNC and VSYNC. I don't know the voltage levels but I'm positive you could adapt this to work on a RGB television or monitor. I think Commodore had some RGB monitors?

Off the shelf wall wart PSUs with +5V and +12V supply should do the trick. They just need to supply enough current. Like at least an Amp per rail.

That Blade Runner version sounds great!

I think it all depends on the game. If the game is too linear, I won't like replaying it at all. I enjoy old games like X-COM and Jagged Alliance which are never quite the same and are always fun to play, even if I mastered them multiple times already.

I'm really interested in such a board.

The Euro idea isn't that bad. Just the execution of this idea was screwed up in the first place. Didn't "Chinese investors" (aka China) own lots of estate in the U.S.?

The Euro idea isn't that bad. Just the execution of this idea was screwed up in the first place. Didn't "Chinese investors" (aka China) own lots of estate in the U.S.?

This scrolling looks really fast!

According to this http://www.atarimagazines.com/v5n3/ExceptionsInterrupts.html those bombs mean Bus Error, Address Error, Illegal instruction and Line F trap (whatever this is). I'm under the impression this is a sign of a defective RAM.

Shipping to Germany would kill me, too.

I like that! But no one will know then it's a GUI, right?

You mean those Peltier thingies? They are rather inefficient. While they can get things quite cool, they use a lot of power and dissipate a lot of heat. That power must come from somewhere and that heat must go somewhere. So in the end, I'd stick with a fan and heatsinks.

Those are tiny capacitors, even though they look like resistors. Google for something like capacitor color bands or something to find out their values and replace them accordingly. They don't have to have the exact same housing. Just make sure there's enough space for them to fit inside the case.