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spicyjack

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About spicyjack

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  1. I'm yer huckleberry.... http://herculesworkshop.com/cgi-bin/p/awtp-product.cgi?d=hercules-workshop&item=76537
  2. Yeah, I'm using 4.49 (9-04-2020), but this thread is where Fujidude originally announced and discussed this batch file. At least this issue is documented so hopefully/maybe people can find it later if they run into the same problem. Thanks for updating the script comments in the batch file source!
  3. Thanks for writing this, I've actually been using this script to build customized SpartaDOS "boot" disks. One small comment, in addition to PHD and PLD, CDD.COM also needs to be unpacked off of the Toolkit disk and put somewhere in your $PATH in order for TKUPDATE.BAT to run without any errors. Any chance you can update the comments at the top of the script for the next Toolkit disk release?
  4. Excellent, thanks for the reply, I wanted to submit an issue for adding a SD Card section to the Quickstart guide
  5. First very rough pass at a "Things you can do with your #FujiNet" document. Comments welcome. If anyone knows of any other #FujiNet projects that are not on this list, please let me know, either reply to this post or reach out to me on Discord (also user 'spicyjack'), thanks! I tried to surf this entire thread for ideas for "Things", but at 87 pages and counting, it's getting a bit unwieldy. Some caveats: The document is not 100% valid Markdown, but pretend it is The order of "things" will change in the document, as will the instructions for those "Things" that have instructions Please don't worry about formatting or speling errors at the moment things_to_do_with_fujinet.md
  6. @mozzwald *cough* https://github.com/FujiNetWIFI/fujinet-platformio/issues/450 I have one or two other suggestions for changes to the Quickstart guide that I will create GitHub issues for when I have time. I went through the #FujiNet thread a bit over the weekend and scraped all of the "What you can do with your new FujiNet?" ideas (BBSing, ISS locator, CP/M, etc.), I'd like to write them up as a single document (with links to other documents as appropriate, example: CP/M) and submit them to the wiki and/or website as well. First, would the #FujiNet devs be interested in something like that, and if yes, should I submit it as Markdown for a new or existing page for the wiki, or in another format for the website, or ??? FWIW, I also use this /nick on Discord, so you can reach out to me there if you want to discuss in realtime. Thanks!
  7. I linked to his post in my post above, at "[other] [people] [mention]".
  8. 2x UAP-AC-HD powered by 2x US-8-150W, with a controller and security gateway, basically a Unifi stack front to back. So, newer APs than what you are using. FWIW the manual for the Meross HomeKit smart plugs explicitly states that you have to shut off your 5GHz network in order to add those devices to HomeKit, or move the plug as far away from the 5GHz antenna as possible when you are trying to add it to your network. Once the devices have been added, you can turn on 5GHz again, and I found this to be exactly the case. I had free slots in my Ubiquti system for a new 2.4GHz-only SSID, so that was the easiest way for me to solve my problem. Also, before moving the device to the dedicated 2.4GHz network, I was able to get a DHCP lease with FujiNet no problem (I could see the correct IP/router/nameserver for the device in [C]onfig), but other protocols (ICMP/HTTP/TNFS) would not work.
  9. Question: is it worth mentioning in the Quickstart Guide the fact that FujiNet is 2.4GHz ONLY, and if you are running a mixed 2.4GHz/5GHz network with the same SSID, your FujiNet device may not be happy? Sadly, I got bit by this tonight. I fired up my FujiNet for the first time, connected to the SSID where my TNFSd is running, and I would get an error (which I forgot to write down), at which point FujiNet would reboot and display the last connected SSID. I was also not able to reach the embedded webserver on the FujiNet device, nor ping it from another host on the same network. I looked at the serial console output, and saw "Failed to resolve hostname <my valid TNFSd hostname>", and watched my FujiNet device reboot again. Right about at this point I thought that the hostname resolution problem might be actually be a 2.4GHz/5GHz problem. I ended up setting up a new 2.4GHz only network just for FujiNet on my WiFi APs, and now everything is working as advertised on the box, embedded webserver and ping work from other hosts on the same network. For what it's worth, I also run Ubiqity hardware like @tschak909, and I've had other WiFi enabled devices have problems with a mixed 2.4GHz/5GHz SSID (Meross HomeKit wall outlets), so FujiNet having the same problem was not so much of a surprise for me. I've seen other people mention problems with 2.4GHz/5GHz on the same SSID, but nobody mentioned updating docs with that info, you have to dig through the forums to find any mention of it. I'd be happy add some info about wireless network setup and to submit a PR on the Quickstart Guide (or another document if that's the appropriate place for it) if there's any interest. Thanks! Serial debug log output for the curious...
  10. tschak909 already explained building on Linux, building for a *BSD is almost the same. Grab the source code (https://github.com/FujiNetWIFI/spectranet), put it on your NAS device, and then run: make OS=BSD in the tnfs/tnfsd/ directory inside of the downloaded spectranet repo. Assuming you have all of the correct programs installed (compiler, linker, etc.) on your NAS, it will build a binary called tnfsd inside of the bin/ directory, which you can then execute on your NAS in order to serve files. You can use the Python script tnfs_client.py to test your new server, assuming you have Python installed on the machine where you are testing from. You could also use your FujiNet to test as well.
  11. One of the books quoted in this interview, Zen of Assembly Language by Michael Abrash, is available on GitHub as an EPUB/MOBI eBook, the conversion was performed with the blessings of the original author. GitHub project: https://github.com/jagregory/abrash-zen-of-asm EPUB/Mobi versions of the book here: https://github.com/jagregory/abrash-zen-of-asm/releases - Click on the "Assets" dropdown on the above page to see the files available for downloading. @Savetz, I don't know if you update the notes for past shows or not, but pasting this project into the show notes could save someone the cost of buying the (no longer published and quite rare) book on Amazon. It would definitely allow people to scratch their itch to see what the book was all about.
  12. PM sent for "Atari Graphics and Arcade Game Design"
  13. For those of you who are contemplating building this board, here's an example with the 2 female DB-9 connectors going to the Atari, instead of 2 male DB-9 connectors. I use a pair cheap-o of Joystick extension cables with this, and it works great. Making your own boards I took the Gerbers that @ivop attached to the first post of this thread (look for the attachment "kicad-files.zip") and uploaded them to a Chinese PCB manufacturing service. It took them about a week to manufacture the PCBs and send them to me, but the down side is that there's usually a minimum order amount involved to make it cost effective. If you want to find a PCB board service, use your favourite search engine with "pcb manufacture", and maybe pool in with a couple of other people to bring the costs down to something reasonable. The parts I mostly sourced from Mouser. I had the resistors already, and the capacitor came from a cheap Amazon capacitor kit. The Mouser part numbers are: 16 pin IC socket - 575-115433163, the DB-9 female plugs are 571-2311765-1, the DB-9 male plugs are 571-2301843-1, Schottky diodes (qty. 40) - 511-1N5819-TR, and the 74ALS138 is 595-SN74ALS138AN. If you ever plan on using a MultiJoy board with a 1088XE(D) computer, I've heard that they require these Schottky diodes or the computer won't work with the Multijoy board. If you won't be using this board with a 1088XE(D) computer, then you can use the diodes that @ivop listed in his BOM (bill of materials). Once I had the PCBs and the parts, I soldered the diodes on to the board first, then the chip socket, resistors and capacitor, then the DB-9 connectors last, since they stick out the most. For the all of the components with leads, bend the leads to all of the parts with leads to the correct hole size using a guide of some sort before inserting them into the board (like a popsicle stick might be the right width). This will save you a ton of time over bending a part, then inserting it, bending the next one, etc. As you can see, I'm missing a DB-9 male on this particular board, that's my mistake in not ordering enough connectors, and not a problem with the board design or anything like that. I'm just waiting to make another Mouser order to fill in the missing connector. I have two different sets of joystick extension cables, one set worked, the other did not. I tested the set that works (eBay speshuls) with a multimeter, and all 9 pins are straight through and conducting those electrons with no issues. I have not tested the non-working cable, so I'm not quite sure what's up with it. You can use the Hardware Tester.atr disk image mentioned in this thread to test the Multijoy board once you have it soldered and ready to go. Anyone has any questions about buying PCBs or assembly for this board, feel free to ask me about them here. @ivop, any chance of modifying your first post and mentioning mounting the female connectors to the bottom of the board and not the top, instead of a few posts into the thread? When I first built this board back in July, I couldn't get it working, and the LS138 would become too hot to touch. I finally about a month ago decided to re-read this entire thread, and found your post about how to mount the female connectors to the bottom of the board, which is why I have working boards now 😃. Feel free to use the images I've attached to this post in your original post as well to demonstrate how to mount female connectors. Good news is that even with the incorrect mounting of the DB-9 female connectors, I didn't burn up the LS138 chip, any of the diodes, or my Atari 🤙 Thanks!
  14. I was looking at my 600XL the other day, if you used a 2nd DIP pin socket underneath the pin sockets that are soldered on to the UAV board, you would be able to clear the resistors on the 600XL board but still be able to fit underneath the RFI shield (if that is your preference). In other words, stack DIP sockets underneath the UAV until you got the height you wanted. If you use the machined DIP sockets or headers, you shouldn't have a problem with anything coming loose. The UAV board will clear the capacitors below the 4050 socket and to the right of the 4050 socket. The Board is about as narrow as the 4050 socket (so that takes care of the right cap), and has a cutout on the "bottom left" corner of the board to clear the bottom left cap. Since the two caps are taken care of, you just need to worry about the resistors.
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