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About spicyjack

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  1. One of the books quoted in this interview, Zen of Assembly Language by Michael Abrash, is available on GitHub as an EPUB/MOBI eBook, the conversion was performed with the blessings of the original author. GitHub project: https://github.com/jagregory/abrash-zen-of-asm EPUB/Mobi versions of the book here: https://github.com/jagregory/abrash-zen-of-asm/releases - Click on the "Assets" dropdown on the above page to see the files available for downloading. @Savetz, I don't know if you update the notes for past shows or not, but pasting this project into the show notes could save someone the cost of buying the (no longer published and quite rare) book on Amazon. It would definitely allow people to scratch their itch to see what the book was all about.
  2. PM sent for "Atari Graphics and Arcade Game Design"
  3. For those of you who are contemplating building this board, here's an example with the 2 female DB-9 connectors going to the Atari, instead of 2 male DB-9 connectors. I use a pair cheap-o of Joystick extension cables with this, and it works great. Making your own boards I took the Gerbers that @ivop attached to the first post of this thread (look for the attachment "kicad-files.zip") and uploaded them to a Chinese PCB manufacturing service. It took them about a week to manufacture the PCBs and send them to me, but the down side is that there's usually a minimum order amount involved to make it cost effective. If you want to find a PCB board service, use your favourite search engine with "pcb manufacture", and maybe pool in with a couple of other people to bring the costs down to something reasonable. The parts I mostly sourced from Mouser. I had the resistors already, and the capacitor came from a cheap Amazon capacitor kit. The Mouser part numbers are: 16 pin IC socket - 575-115433163, the DB-9 female plugs are 571-2311765-1, the DB-9 male plugs are 571-2301843-1, Schottky diodes (qty. 40) - 511-1N5819-TR, and the 74ALS138 is 595-SN74ALS138AN. If you ever plan on using a MultiJoy board with a 1088XE(D) computer, I've heard that they require these Schottky diodes or the computer won't work with the Multijoy board. If you won't be using this board with a 1088XE(D) computer, then you can use the diodes that @ivop listed in his BOM (bill of materials). Once I had the PCBs and the parts, I soldered the diodes on to the board first, then the chip socket, resistors and capacitor, then the DB-9 connectors last, since they stick out the most. For the all of the components with leads, bend the leads to all of the parts with leads to the correct hole size using a guide of some sort before inserting them into the board (like a popsicle stick might be the right width). This will save you a ton of time over bending a part, then inserting it, bending the next one, etc. As you can see, I'm missing a DB-9 male on this particular board, that's my mistake in not ordering enough connectors, and not a problem with the board design or anything like that. I'm just waiting to make another Mouser order to fill in the missing connector. I have two different sets of joystick extension cables, one set worked, the other did not. I tested the set that works (eBay speshuls) with a multimeter, and all 9 pins are straight through and conducting those electrons with no issues. I have not tested the non-working cable, so I'm not quite sure what's up with it. You can use the Hardware Tester.atr disk image mentioned in this thread to test the Multijoy board once you have it soldered and ready to go. Anyone has any questions about buying PCBs or assembly for this board, feel free to ask me about them here. @ivop, any chance of modifying your first post and mentioning mounting the female connectors to the bottom of the board and not the top, instead of a few posts into the thread? When I first built this board back in July, I couldn't get it working, and the LS138 would become too hot to touch. I finally about a month ago decided to re-read this entire thread, and found your post about how to mount the female connectors to the bottom of the board, which is why I have working boards now 😃. Feel free to use the images I've attached to this post in your original post as well to demonstrate how to mount female connectors. Good news is that even with the incorrect mounting of the DB-9 female connectors, I didn't burn up the LS138 chip, any of the diodes, or my Atari 🤙 Thanks!
  4. I was looking at my 600XL the other day, if you used a 2nd DIP pin socket underneath the pin sockets that are soldered on to the UAV board, you would be able to clear the resistors on the 600XL board but still be able to fit underneath the RFI shield (if that is your preference). In other words, stack DIP sockets underneath the UAV until you got the height you wanted. If you use the machined DIP sockets or headers, you shouldn't have a problem with anything coming loose. The UAV board will clear the capacitors below the 4050 socket and to the right of the 4050 socket. The Board is about as narrow as the 4050 socket (so that takes care of the right cap), and has a cutout on the "bottom left" corner of the board to clear the bottom left cap. Since the two caps are taken care of, you just need to worry about the resistors.
  5. I just got done with installing a UAV board in my 130XE, and it's made a vast difference (for the better!). Attached are the before/after shots; my 130XE before the upgrade had vertical bars across the screen in Mode 0, some perusing of the forums says the vertical bars are noise/interference from the DRAM. Output path for the images in the pictures: 130XE Chroma/Luma out from monitor port -> Lotharek Atari cable with S-Video connector -> RetroTink 2x-Pro (scanline upscaler), S-Video input to HDMI output -> No-name 21" LCD panel via a HDMI to DVI adapter. I think the RetroTink filter is set for the "smoothed" (two "Filter" button presses from default). The 2nd picture, I didn't turn off the light over my workbench, so there's glare in the upper center of that image, try to ignore it. I took pictures for almost every step of my install; I can share them here in this thread if there's interest, but I would do it over a few posts so I can show everything, and I don't want to be the person who sucks the air out of the room as it were.
  6. I actually have this open in another browser tab, but I haven't made it all the way through the thread yet. Thanks for posting though!
  7. I did what the article said; I didn't realize that you had done a 2nd version. I still have everything in my garage if I wanted to re-install it. I powered it on it after I put it together and it booted fine, I just didn't get a photo of the right chip in the right socket, and guessed.
  8. When the "QuarterMeg XL" article by @ClausB came out in the September 1985 issue of BYTE, I had to try it on my K-Mart special Atari 800XL. For reference, here's the original BYTE magazine article: Quarter_MEG_ATARI_800XL_256kB_RAM.pdf I bought the chips mail order from a place in San Jose, bought the perf board and chip sockets from my local Radio Shack, and threw it together. After the upgrade, I explained to one of my friends what I had done, and he asked me to do the same upgrade to his 800XL. Years later, he got out of 8-bit Ataris, and he gave me all of the old hardware that he hadn't sold on Ebay. This is his 800XL which I had upgraded about 35 years ago. I remembered that I had did this upgrade to my 800XL, but I had forgotten that I did the same upgrade to his 800XL. I recently took this machine apart to document things (was the board socketed or not, how much corrosion was there on the RFI shields, etc.), and I "found" this upgrade attached to it. SURPRISE! The thing was, I used telephone hookup wire for most of my electronic projects at the time, since I had a bunch of it sitting around (my dad worked for the phone company), so I had a sneaking feeling that I had done this upgrade, but I wasn't sure. For about an hour or two, I was pretty convinced that this was my original 800XL that I somehow ended up with again as a craigslist/Ebay purchase. It was pretty spooky. But, I thought about it some more, and realized what the deal was; this was my friend's machine, and I did this mod on his 800XL after I did the mod on my 800XL. Thanks to @ClausB, his instructions were solid, and the trick about using half of an IC socket to so you don't have to solder directly onto the PIA was great, it was a clean install which uninstalled very quickly, I just had to cut one wire that I had soldered on to the board, "above" the row of RAM chips. So here you go, I'm going to remove this QuarterMeg XL upgrade from ~35 years ago. I pulled off the keyboard, and the RFI shield was still in place. The discoloration of the RFI shield most likely comes from the part of San Diego where this machine was used and stored, it's a few miles from the Pacific Ocean. I pulled the RFI shield off, and WHOA! what's that there? Close up of the perf board with the RAM refresh chips, and the ribbon cable where it plugs in to the board The pins on the PIA bent up, and the wires soldered to half of an IC socket, in order to make it easy to attach/unattach as needed. You can see the piece of electrical tape that covered the tops of the pins to protect from shorting it out against the RFI shield Starting the uninstall Close-up of the perf board, with the electrical tape attached to the bottom And here's the board post-uninstall. The 74LS153N got resocketed from the perf board back into the 800XL board. I have a chip pin straightener, so I was able to get the PIA pins back to their "normal" angle pretty easily. The machine boots fine with the 256KB RAM chips still installed, only the first 64KB would be used at this point Thanks for reading, feel free to ask me any questions.
  9. Makes it a little bit harder to see what to hit, actually, the bright red stripes are distracting. Here's the bag after I had had my way with it.
  10. I don't think that would work, see the pictures above. The power supply was filled from the "bottom" upwards (turned over and filled from the bottom, then the bottom was epoxied on), which means it would suck to try and get the epoxy out as one piece so that the shell is still usable and not deformed. I've seen other mentions of using acid to dissolve the epoxy, it kind of sounds appealing in a curiosity way (what's inside that epoxy, eh?), but I definitely don't want to go there, I lack the experience to properly handle and dispose of any kind of acid beyond household chemicals.
  11. I took some more pictures of the case post-teardown, and the only reason the resin "brick" came loose was because I applied force to it. You can sort of "fake it" putting it back together once you get it apart, but it won't pass close inspection.
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