5-11under

Does it look like a studio monitor? What's the model number? 5-11under

I've had a couple of recent inquiries about the availability of the component video mod, so here goes... I have at least a couple of units ready to be mailed anytime. I'd just have to do a quick re-test before mailing them. These could be mailed out within 0-2 days. I have a handful of others that are nearly complete, just requiring minor, partial assembly, followed by testing. These could be mailed out within 1-3 days. I have components for at least a dozen more, and plenty more circuit boards, so I can easily build more anytime. I can also purchase more parts or PCBs of course, if required. If I run low on the ready or almost ready units, I'll assemble some more. Therefore the lead-time on future units should be 1-3 days, unless a bunch of orders come in around the same time (then the lead-time might be up to a week or so). If you're interested, they're $45 US each via PayPal, mailed to USA/Canada. Send me a PM if you'd like one. Also... I'm working on the last part of the instructions, to go with the first part that was uploaded a week or so ago. Look for that soon. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi channelmaniac, The instructions don't say to connect directly to the sound chip. It says to connect to the "other side" of C100 (which is labeled J4(2) in the readily available on-line CV schematic). this is pretty much the same as what you propose, except is through a filter capacitor. Either should work fine. Thanks, 5-11under

Version 0.01 of the manual - May 3, 2010 The disassembly, soldering, and video set-up instructions are fairly complete, but case drilling and reassembly steps need some detail and pictures. Reply with any issues you see, or any improvements that can be made. I'll need to reformat it if I want to upload it to AtariAge, so at the moment it's here: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=I2N88Z7F Thanks, 5-11under

As you learned from another thread, it all depends where you pick up the audio. So yes, the sound for the 2600 adapter is fed to the audio outputs. Regarding the Adam, I really have no idea, except if it has a TMS9928A chip, and the expansion module works properly in RF, then you should be able to pick off the audio somewhere in the modulator, or wherever the two audio signals (Adam, 2600) get selected/switched. By the way, some progress has been made on the manual, and I should have something posted tonight or tomorrow. Thanks, 5-11under

faked_veneer, I sent you a PM. I'd like to do the mod on your PAL ColecoVision, to figure out how to make the connections, and how much shipping it back would cost. I don't know if I'll make a habit of performing the mods myself, but I'll definitely do it for the first PAL one. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi all, There's a CGCC swap meet in Kitchener, Ontario, this Saturday, May 1st. It's probably about 1.5 hours from Niagara Falls. Details can be found here: http://www.cgcc.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20579 Say hi if you can make it. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi all, The good news is that I should have an Intellivision or two in my possession on Saturday (thanks to coleconut). I've got some other things to do before diving in, but I'm looking forward to doing some testing. This may take some time, but I'm hopeful for some good results. I'll keep you posted. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi everyone, answers to a few questions... First of all, I apologize for not providing a "single source" set of instructions yet. The instructions are there, as mentioned in a previous thread, but a single document would be much better. I'll work on that this week, and hopefully provide at least a preliminary version in a couple of days. Ikrananka, you should still be able to improve the look of the yellow. Try slowly nudging up the blue (CCW) and/or the blue feedback (CW). The jumpers select filters on the "Y" line, which seems to be the source of most of the vertical banding. Removing one or more jumpers will make the edges of the pixels sharper, but will increase vertical banding. The jumper closest to the side of the PCB is the "most significant" one. Jibbajaba, getting straight RGB out of the ColecoVision would require a transformation of the signal. It can be done relatively easy, but it's not something I'm prepared to do. I'm concentrating on usage with regular/popular/my televisions. The ColecoVision video display processor provides something that resembles YPbPr component - the difference levels just require some massaging because the difference levels are not suitable without modification. You can probably buy a YPbPr to RGB converter. HDTV1080P, I think the output is 480P. I've only tried the modification on newer televisions. The only CRT screens I've tried it on are studio monitors. I also understand your appreciation of HDMI - it's a fairly simple and widespread solution for the user, and I'm guessing will be fairly standard for quite a while into the future. However, It's probably not worth creating an HMDI or DVI output from scratch. You can purchase a YPbPr to HDMI converter for about $50. A DIY solution would likely be no cheaper, and no better. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi there, I'm wondering what the screen resolution is for the Intellivision? There's several answers available on the internet, such as 159/160 x 96/192/196. I'm guessing the answer for the tiles is 160x96 (20x12 8x8 tiles). Is the sprite resolution double that vertically, ie. 192? What's the real answer? Thanks, 5-11under

Lots of good stuff here: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/111225-online-atari-2600-label-maker-now-with-silver-labels/ You can use mine... My Dinner With Andre: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/111225-online-atari-2600-label-maker-now-with-silver-labels/page__view__findpost__p__1350710 (The) Tempest: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/111225-online-atari-2600-label-maker-now-with-silver-labels/page__view__findpost__p__1352218 Thanks, 5-11under

There's 25.5, though... . If this is all true, I find it interesting that over 50% of them are still around. Maybe some people kept them because the shape and colour was different from most games? 5-11under

I can't be of any assistance for the old/rare stuff, but I'll definitely buy a book. Is the book just about the '80s, or will you get into newer topics? Thanks, 5-11under

I always wanted one of these for a portable. The way I understood it, though, before seeing this one, is that it was a glop-top. Oh well. 5-11under

The controllers housing these came out of were no different than any others, the pcbs just have the spinner components soldered in place. I believe I saw a photo of a proto controller with the spinner above the keypad somewhere. My guess is that the magnets in the spinner knob would be mounted differently so that it would spin horizontal. There wouldn't be enough room for it to be vertical. Yep, horizontal should still work. That's why the reed switches are offset left/right.

I would be interested to release them under CollectorVision PM sent This sounds like a good idea, especially for the playable games. More people would be happy, for sure. My 2 cents, 5-11under

Hi there, I'm wondering if anyone knows how much an Intellivision model I weighs? Just by itself ideally, without a box or any games. Thanks, 5-11under

I guess Wonder007 just placed a 50Kish bid right at the end. Fortunately his computer didn't go down just at that moment (I'm assuming this was bid manually). 5-11under

The basic overhead is two. There are some additional tweaks in CloneSpy e.g. identical offsets inside a sequence don't break the sequence, just increase overhead. The used compression algorithm is LZSS, which is pretty good. But there are better ones. BTW: xdelta is a tool to create patch files whichs convert file A into file B. The smaller the resulting patch file, the more identical the two files are. From the documentation it seems like it uses a very similar approach like Clonespy. To patch Air Raid into: Space Jockey (U.S. Games Corporation) (NTSC): 1275 bytes Space Jockey (Carrere Video) (PAL): 1392 bytes Space Jockey (Unknown) (PAL): 1540 bytes UFO (32 in 1) (Atari) (PAL): 1576 bytes Space Jockey (208 in 1) (Unknown) (PAL): 1551 bytes (Note: You have to remove the overhead from the patch files 7 bytes + length of both filenames. E.g. 1275 -> 1141 bytes) I'm curious what kind of result you get when comparing to a completely different game (or is that the UFO game that is mentioned)? Thanks, 5-11under

You'll need a TV with an NTSC tuner... or connect via a VCR. 5-11undr

I think we would see more updates throughout the day if this was a prank. 5-11under

This is the way of the future, I believe, especially if you consider digital outputs such as DVI. First of all, I must say that I'm not too clear on how the 5200 derives colour. If it's similar to the way the 2600 does, then I'm still not too clear on how the three(?) chroma outputs work together - are they all analog, or is just the luma that is analog, while the chroma are digital at the source? I'm guessing it would be best, if possible, to digitize (or deal with) each of the four (if I've got the number right) signals individually. I think the challenge (at least one of them, anyway) will be to digitize these signals as accurately as possible, especially given the wide range of colours available on the Atari consoles. Best of luck in your project! 5-11under

I was curious about another pair of words, and found this: http://www.wsu.edu/~brians/errors/errors.html#errors Thanks, 5-11under

The one I provided in an earlier post (http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/151433-cv-lord-of-the-dungeon-images/page__view__findpost__p__1855644) does not show the splash screen. Check it out in blueMSX. Okay, that's cool. I'll have to give it a try. Thanks, 5-11under

I haven't played this game. Are there ROMs out there without the splash screen (showing CEG or DP or something like that)? I've been thinking about making a run of these (I bought the parts a while back), but I wouldn't do it with the "new" splash screen. Thanks, 5-11under