5-11under

First one in the Great White North! 5-11under

It's available inside the RF box, in the "column" of pads lined up front to back. I'm not 100% sure, but I think it's the second pin from the back (I connect other signals via pins 4 and 6, if I recall correctly). Otherwise you could do the same way I and probably others have done it - trial and error. Thanks, 5-1under

Memory/Sound/Expansion Module - MSE, MSX, MSEM or MSEx Module, if you prefer. Switch it around, and you have the SEM module, or perhaps the S&M Expansion Module. Just kidding, mostly... 5-11under

This could work well, I think, with any TV. It actually sounds like a very good idea. I'm guessing you'll be able to go faster than 1/10 second per flash... maybe flash a few times to make sure it's not an error... you'd need some logic, of course. How did you do this for the 5200? Edit: I found an older thread that helped explain this. Thanks, 5-11under

I'll have to look at the posted pictures, to see if you're on there, and if I remember you. 5-11under Remember when I said I would talk about Squares? Well I did a review of Squares if you wanna see it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkaFqK8X8eI Hi StarSoldier1, You make me laugh, in a good way. 5-11under

Wow! 5-11under

I think if run it for 1/10 of a second, it should be just fine. Of course, once you've got your program running, you can test all of these things, and see for yourself. Add some tolerance for slower/faster TVs, and try a few out. Good luck. It sounds like fun. 5-11under

Are protos of released games, even if different than the final version, really worth that much? I would have guessed $80-$150, and somewhat more for in-demand titles, which might include DK. 5-11under

Trying to stay on topic, but I have to ask... Are there some good sites for N64 programming... tools, samples, anything? Thanks, 5-11under

Looks alright, but it's not complete until it has an original GameBoy with a few "missing" columns of pixels. 5-11under

... and people might be more inclined to help... if possible, you should check the +12V, +5V, and -5V supplies on the board. It could be the TMS9928A (the chip with the heat sink), but it could also be a severe video memory problem, or something else. What are the symptoms? 5-11under edit: I was assuming you were getting a black screen... but as I said, what are the symptoms? Does anything show up on the screen, with the power on, and no cart or expansion module plugged in?

Could someone post the information here, so I don't need to subscribe? Thanks, 5-11under

This might help: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/95886-colecovision-adam-replacement-power-supply/page__view__findpost__p__1159200 5-11under

I had a quick look at the questions, and they seemed flawed to me, with the answers potentially open to too much interpretation. If people think about it the way I do, then obviously violent games affect people. However, playing Tiddly Winks or Yahtzee also affects people (and not always in a good way ). The questions should be designed to help reveal to what degree people are affected, how they're affected, whether it is a positive, negative, or neutral experience, and why they're affected the way they are. I wrote more in this paragraph about Columbine/Doom/causality, but decided to delete it... anyway, mentioning Columbine in the questionnaire could easily slant your results in a certain direction. My 3 cents, 5-11under

The only thing you should need is Java. Maybe I should try at home.

Doesn't work for me. What plug-in is required to play the games? Thanks, 5-11under

Does your credit card number get stored within the account, or do you need to enter it for each transaction? Thanks, 5-11under

I voted "No". If it's CIB, then it already has a box. 5-11under

It states in that link: Note: TV does not work while in motion. Maybe they are just referring to the RF reception of digital channels. If they are referring to A/V inputs don't work while in motion, that may indicate a bad design. It may be better if it had a power output connection so some console can be powered by it. That way, both console and TV would be portable. I don't know of any XL/XE/A800 running on batteries. Probably they mean don't bother trying to watch a TV show when you're in a vehicle going 60 mph. 5-11uner

With the minimal space that the ROMs take, you could have several copies of each game, organized in several different ways. For instance, alphabetical, manufacturer, controller, orig/home/hacks, etc. I'm assuming there would be enough space and number of files available on an SD card to do this... . /doesn't have a Harmony cartridge... yet. 5-11under edit: clarification

Slow down. I don't even have an INTV yet... although I had a I and a II a few years ago... . That said, I've convinced myself I'm going to give this a try, although it could be quite a while before it gets near completion. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi Ikrananka, I'm glad you've got it working, at least for the most part. It's nice to see the pictures. The amount of banding in your pictures looks fairly normal. The only way I know how to decrease the banding would make the picture blurrier. Unfortunately, as you've proved, different TVs will have different outputs, which means that adjustment may be necessary. I'm not sure the root cause of this. Anyway, to increase the saturation of the reds and blues, the corresponding pots could be turned somewhat more CCW. The key to this mod is the "Blue feedback". I've seen other component mods on the internet, but the yellows were always severely muted. Feeding back additional "Y" Luma into the blue will increase saturation of the yellows. Turn the blue feedback pot CW until the colours turn strange, then back it off a little until it looks decent. You can do the same with the red feedback, although the results are more subtle (look at the reds and greens). Thanks, 5-11under

Unfortunately, they're spread out at the moment. I'll see if I can fix that. 5-11under

It's for sale. People are just getting the first batch, but there was some delays with the instructions, plus it takes some effort for people to give it a try. I've got a few ready to go, so PM me if you'd like one. Thanks, 5-11under

Sorry for the delay. I'm attaching a .doc file with a drilling template and a few related notes. As far as the "H" or "H2" ColecoVision main board goes, if there is a trace in place of the jumper or inductor, then yes, that trace should be cut for best results. Feel free to reply with any questions, comments, etc. Thanks, 5-11under YPbPr template.doc