5-11under

Not yet. I'm hoping to get an Intellivision in the spring, and then do some work on this. In the meantime, I'd still love to see some TV screen shots of anyone's RF or composite output. Thanks, 5-11under

Running the spinner and VDP interrupts through some PLD logic sounds like a simple way. I'm sure you could get it out of "compatibility" mode through an address. It's not clear to me if using "Z80 interrupt Mode 2" would be compatible with the good ol' CV. 5-11under "through some PLD logic"... to choose which interrupt sources will go to which interrupt lines... likely with an interrupt controller (maybe the CPLD can handle this?).

The NTSC uses a 7.15909 MHz crystal... times 1.5 to the VDP is 10.738635 MHz. The PAL colorburst is 4.43361875 MHz, but I don't think the VDP is running at 13.3... . Sorry, not the full answer, but a step, 5-11under

My only question is... Who is Andre? I never noticed this name until a short time ago, and now his name seems to pop up quite often. One of my concerns is copyright on the CV BIOS. I've been thinking about a bare-bones CV clone, and had thought about making some changes to the BIOS, but the original source would still not be mine... however, in very small quantities, it wouldn't be something I would be too concerned about. If you are potentially selling high quantities of these, maybe this is of some concern? - or will the BIOS be something a user would have to "find" themselves, and put on an SD or CF card? Thanks, 5-11under

So I've got about 5 minutes to get to the last page... Too late - all done.

8960!

Anyone get in? Also, if anyone has an update on the dollar status, please post it here. No use trying if it's over. Thanks, 5-11under

We'll see. I shouldn't have tried updating my cart shortly before the start. Now I'm an extra step away from the end. Oh well, I'll keep trying 5-11under

I'm pretty sure I've got an "H2" lying around. I'll look into it. 5-11under

Unfortunately, I've got to go to bed shortly, and get some sleep, to hopefully stay healthy(er)... Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to provide drilling instructions - if you need to get it done right away, it goes in the top half of the case, almost as high as will fit. The top shield should fit back on, but I'd put a few pieces thick of electrical tape to make sure there's no shorting. If you look at the picture in post #58 (remember that purple is now orange), the red, green, and blue wires go into holes in the board that were once used by L7,L8, and L9. Those components, whether jumpers or inductors, need to be removed before attaching the red, green, and blue wires. This ensures a clean signal to the Y (green), B-Y (blue) and R-Y (red) lines. The other lines are... orange=5V, black=ground, white=audio, yellow=video (from Atari expansion module). Viewed from the back, the controls, left to right are: blue: reversed (d'oh), so turning CCW increases blue level red: reversed (d'oh), so turning CCW increases red level brightness: CW increases brightness blue feedback: CW increases the blue feedback from the Y (luma) line red feedback: CW increases the red feedback from the Y (luma) line Hopefully at start-up, a decent picture is shown. If it's not working at all, turn blue and red CW, and the both feedbacks CCW. Use the brightness control to get a b/w picture. Follow by slowly turning the red and/or blue CCW until it the levels seem decent. The yellows should be quite dull. Turn the blue feedback CW to increase the saturation of the yellow. Increasing too much will mangle the colours. Do the same with the red feedback to suit - the effect of this control should be more subtle. Get back to me if you have any questions - I should be able to answer them tomorrow. Thanks, 5-11under

ColecoVision: One of the 74LS541 chips is the culprit. I'd replace them both. Might as well add a pair of 20 pin sockets at the same time. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi Charles, I guess I better get the instructions together... having too much fun over the holidays, I guess... . I'll post the instruction soon, but in the meantime, the picture in post #58 is good, except there's no purple wire anymore - it's replaced with orange. Also, the components or jumpers where the red, green, and blue wires are connected (L7, L8, L9) need to be removed. Details to follow... . Thanks, 5-11under

I'm not sure if either of these games are in the same genre... and I'm not getting 007 for the family. We only shoot with coconuts, peanuts, and pixelated bombs. 5-11under

Super Mario 64 would be a good choice, as would Kirby 64 and Banjo Kazooie. I'll investigate these. Thanks! 5-11under

Hi there, My family really enjoys N64 games such as Bomberman, Bomberman Hero, and Donkey Kong 64. I'm lost in the 80's , so I'm wondering if any of you know of other good N64 games that are similar in genre? Thanks, 5-11under

Why not just get an RCA Y-cable and split the audio to both channels? Doesn't function the same. All that gives is identical sound to both channels. I did a stereo mod to my NES a while back and ended up with distinctly different sound to the left ad right speakers. That is why an RCA Y cable will not suffice. From the schematic, it looks like there are 3 sound sources from one chip, all connected to each other. However, I don't think the games are programmed taking into account the different channels, so it's not like you'll be able to hear things on the right of the screen in the right speaker, etc. The stereo you would hear would me meaningless, I think? Thanks, 5-11under

I was thinking of replacing the AY-3-8915 with alternate circuitry, to provide component, and possibly S-video and composite. According the the datasheet, the "transfer function" of the AY-3-8915 isn't that complicated. Do you have any details or links with AY-3-8915 information (besides the two page datasheet)? The beautiful thing about the Intellivision is that the digital video signals are readily accessible, so digital solutions such as DVI are also conceivable (as opposed to the A2600 and CV, where the digital signals are locked inside fairly complicated video ICs - to get DVI out of an A2600 or CV would require either replacing the complicated video IC or converting the analog signals to digital). Thanks, 5-11under

cardboard or plastic? 5-11under

The PM should work... anyway, it hasn't been tested on a PAL unit yet... but should work okay. I'm sending a couple to PAL-land, so hopefully the results are good. The yellow plug is the composite output from the Atari Expansion Module only. S-Video is not provided. Thanks, 5-11under

Also, those controllers need to go somewhere - might as well store them "in" the system. 5-11under

What Pixelboy said, and... You don't need (or want) to take the front cover off to open the ColecoVision. Just take the screws out of the bottom, and weasel open the two halves. The first one might take a couple of minutes, but you get the hang of it pretty quickly. Thanks, 5-11under

This weekend is devoted to testing and mailing out the component video mods. I'll move as fast as I can with the PCBs, though. The pressure's on, I guess. 5-11under

These are well under way, and should be shipped over the weekend or on Monday. I've PMed everyone who was interested. If I've forgotten you, then please just send me a PM. ianoid, I think your mailbox is full. Please send me a PM. Thanks, 5-11under

The elves should be done their work on time, but I'm not sure if the reindeer will be able to deliver on time. 5-11under

A few pictures... The assembled product (final product includes the wires soldered on): Connected to the ColecoVision: Close-up of the wiring (note that I need to change the wire gauge): Audio and composite video for the Atari expansion module has been verified. The next step is installation into a ColecoVision case, but that's enough for tonight. Thanks, 5-11under