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5-11under

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Posts posted by 5-11under

  1. Posted · Edited by 5-11under

    Hi marc.hull,

     

    Welcome to the forums.

     

    The Old Computer has one: http://www.theoldcomputer.com/Libarary%27s...mes_summary.htm

     

    There's one out there that I haven't found yet, which allows you to skip the intro screen with the push of the fire button. I've got one at home that I made that changes the ~10 second delay to a manageable ~2.5 second delay, which is what I'll likely be using for any future modifications. I'll try to remember to find it tonight.

     

    edit: oops, sorry, it looks like you're looking for chips, not files.

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  3. Posted

    The problem is definately the Texas Instruments SN74LS541 Octal Buffer(s) at U18 (player 2) and/or U19 (player 1). It/They would need to be replaced, and are still readily available if you have the ability to solder.

     

    Jumping into this thread with a similar problem: controller port one automatically fires one shot or jumps once, then the fire buttons no longer work. Would this be the same as the pulling to the right problem with the same solution?

     

    Yep, basically the same problem, with the same solution.

    5-11under

  6. Posted

    There's tons of obscure older games that could be ripe for porting to the CV. Why not try something that hasn't been ported to other consoles/computers already?

     

    Because the number of people that care about a given obscure game isn't enough to justify the effort...

    You can come here and say that you love, lets say, Lasso, a SNK game from 1982. The problem is, who else cares about that?

     

    Ouch. Sad, but true, I guess.

    5-11under

  7. Posted

    Hi yurkie,

     

    I've tried two component to HDMI converter boxes, with very limited success. One converter box worked, but the picture was in 16:9 format, and a little short (!), neither of which is a good thing. My TV was unable to make the picture narrower, to a 4:3 format.

     

    It did, however, make the picture more consistent across different TVs (I'm guessing, because I've only tried it on my TV!). With component video, the picture is good on some TVs, but on my TV, I get some vertical colour banding (easily visible in the "red" and green in Smurf's Rescue). Good enough for me, but not good enough to sell to anyone. With the converter, the banding is gone.

     

    The other converter box didn't work at all. I haven't had a chance to figure out why, although I'm guessing the results won't be any better than the other box.

     

    The quest continues, however. More parts on order, and experimentation to follow... in a few weeks, after my vacation... . :)

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  8. Posted

    I'm smokeing nothing (At the moment, lol!) but, yeah I am serious. The 2600 jr, Intelvision jr, Colecovision jr, 5200 jr etc did a lot more to safe the idustry then the NES, and I have a lot and I mean a LOT of evidence to back that up.

     

    Man, I like to debate and play devils advocate (see earlier posts in this thread lol), but I can't even begin to start defending that statement... lol

     

    I'm trying to erase it from my memory, until he defends his position. I wish I had a ColecoVision Jr., though. :)

    5-11under

  14. Posted

    Hi mharnisch,

     

    Welcome to the forums.

     

    I don't have too much experience with these yet, but I would de-solder and remove the top half of the switches, leaving the "rivet" on the PCB, of course. They're pretty easy to remove. I'm guessing the removed portion looks nice and shiny, but the "rivet" on the PCB is dull. Use an eraser (pink?) to get it looking shiny again, then use contact cleaner to keep it nice. DeoxIT might work well here as an alternative to the eraser and contact cleaner. You might also consider adding dielectric grease to keep the contact free from moisture. I've also added extra thickness (with tape?) to the white ring, in the hopes of making the switches make contact earlier.

     

    Hopefully someone else, with more experience, will reply with their own methods.

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  16. Posted

    Hi Ikrananka,

     

    I've done some work on this a while back, and am just getting started back onto the project as of yesterday. The problem I've had is variability between TV sets/monitors. On my TV, I get some corners of pixels flickering on/off on the top half of the screen, as well as vertical banding. However, I tried it out on a smaller TV yesterday at a video game show, and it looked great. Someone complained that you could see the pixels (ie. no smearing), but that's another story. I also get a lot of colour variability between TVs. I'm not sure if that's my fault or just the way it is. I'm still happy with the picture I get on my TV, but I'm hoping to get it better, and be able to have higher consistency for all/most TVs.

     

    Sorry, I'm not great at understanding transistor circuits, but I'd keep the same 75 ohm circuit on each path. Remember, too, that just having the "Y" connected should get you a monochrome picture. The Pb and Pr output levels from the VDP vary somewhat from the Y level, if I recall correctly, so the amplification pot position will be different. Also, I think the output of the VDP actually needs to be attenuated, but I'm guessing most transistor amplifiers would be able to do that. Just do your best to start the circuit at the "zero" level before cranking it up to 11.

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  24. Posted

    Hi Daniel,

     

    It looks like I'll be using the Coleco format. It looks more intuitive and powerful.

     

    I see you've posted some information: http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=138776

     

    And this, which looks to require some massaging and editing of the data before being able to be used: http://www.geocities.com/newcoleco/soundbank/os7_en.html

    Youki, you might be able to use this, with a bit of work, to sequence the sounds.

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  25. Posted

    Hi Daniel,

     

    This looks like a good tool, especially with the bass and white noise, because that is more difficult to imagine in my head.

     

    I've been playing with the 021 version, and comparing to your documentation for C Programming (specifically Marcel's Sound Data Format section). I haven't tried it in a program yet, but I found some things I don't understand:

     

    - How to get beyond the "3F" delay range for longer notes, without stringing up several "3F"s.

    - The "5X" code

    - The difference between the "40" code and the "42" code.

     

    Bottom line is, do you have more documentation on Marcel's sound format than is in your programming guide?

     

    Any chance of getting the frequency sweep added? That aspect is even more difficult to "visualize".

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

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