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5-11under

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Posts posted by 5-11under

  5. Posted · Edited by 5-11under

    Hi everyone,

     

    This is a little teaser picture of a prototype PCB I just received... either to build up some hype... or in the least to have some fun on a Friday afternoon, to see if people can deduce or guess what it is.

     

    post-3127-1222454991_thumb.jpg

     

    I should've checked my layout for glaring mistakes before getting it made, but oh well, that's why I only got 2 made, I guess. With some pain, though, they should still be good enough for testing.

     

    More information and/or clues to follow below... .

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  7. Posted

    I used FreePCB (http://www.freepcb.com/) for my ColecoVision cartridges. It's likely not as powerful as Eagle, but for me, it was easier to get started in creating a layout. There's no schematic editor, so it's probably more suitable for smaller projects.

     

    Where's the cheapest place to get PCBs made for fairly small double-sided boards in quantities of 2-20?

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  12. Posted

    Gonzo,

     

    I would definitely go with the 4164 as an "almost direct" replacement for the 4116... especially for a portable... I think the only other parts that use +12V or -5V are video parts, which you may also be able to get around.

     

    Hmm... the original page seems to have disappeared... http://web.archive.org/web/20060517061134/...m/Dramming.html

     

    If you're making a new PCB for the portable, it'd be worth some effort to see if there's a single RAM chip that would be able to replace the 8.

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  13. Posted

    Hi there,

     

    I bought a Krokodile cartridge from the AtariAge store around the beginning of this year (the latest batch). Unfortunately, since then, I've used it approximately once. It's time it finds a new home. It includes the cartridge, instructions, CD, and serial cable (I don't think I'm forgetting anything). I'll ship it from Canada via XpressPost to locations in USA or Canada (about $15?), in a decently padded box.

     

    If you're interested, feel free to make an offer. Highest offer of at least $115 over the next 2-3 days gets it. I'll post the highest bid value occasionally.

     

    Price will include shipping, so the price you offer is the price you pay. Payment will be via PayPal.

     

    Thanks for looking,

    5-11under

  15. Posted

    You know what's a real bitch to desolder? Components on a ColecoVision PCB. I don't know what they did to make those circuit boards so resistant to desoldering, but I've definitely noticed it.

     

    I couldn't agree more! I don't know why it is, but the ColecoVision is a real pain in the ass. Generally on the ColecoVision when I replace the BIOS, I cut the pins of the original (rendering it useless, but who cares), then with a soldering iron and de-soldering wick, heat each pin, pull out with tweezers, and clear the hole. There is some nice professional de-soldering equipment that I've looking at for a while now, but none of it's cheap!

    Ditto. I also make sure the soldering iron is on the hottest setting possible.

    5-11under

  18. Posted

    As the copyright holder (with or without the paperwork!), here's hoping you'll see some sort of royalty payment on the 82 or however many that are being made.

     

    Your going along with this guy and you don't even know who he is. He doesn't have a copyright by the way as that was fully researched to all extent before hand. If he's gettingone now whatever that cool, he didn't program the game so that might behard to do. Talk about rubbernecking where you don't belong.! :roll:

     

    I've talked to "gamecrawler" and we are cool so mind your own bees wax.

     

    Hi Shawn,

     

    I'm just trying to support someone who seems to care about what he feels is his property.

    Rubbernecking... it's an open forum, as far as I know. I assume varying opinions and bees wax are allowed on the board. ;)

    Anyway, I'm glad that you and gamecrawler have talked and are cool.

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  19. Posted · Edited by 5-11under

    Hi Bob E,

     

    As the copyright holder (with or without the paperwork!), here's hoping you'll see some sort of royalty payment on the 82 or however many that are being made.

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

     

    Edit: Best wishes for any future programming - just don't make 1 or 2 cartridges. ;)

  20. Posted

    I got MyroPCB to make my ColecoVision PCBs (non-assembly). Their prices and delivery are good, and customer support seems good. There's a nice price break starting at 1000 sq. in. of PCB. You can do on-line quoting.

     

    For board population, for a small run, I'd look into getting it done privately. I'm sure there's plenty of people here that could do it.

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  21. Posted

    Hi Rob,

     

    I think from a business point of view your method is flawed, by performing the work before doing market research (although you'll probably end up doing okay on this project, I think).

     

    If you'd like to make money on a project, determine the costs such as paying yourself (for a certain period of time at a certain level), and production costs. At the same time, make your best determination on the quantity you will sell (and perhaps what timeframe), and at was price per unit. Do some math (Excel is your friend), and you'll determine if the project is economically viable. There's probably a lot of guessing that goes on, but that along with some research should get you reasonably close - you can always factor risk in, too, such as if the project takes longer than expected.

     

    Also, if it was me, I'd probably ignore the hours I spent on the project years ago. Any money one expected to receive from work that long ago is likely long forgotten, and not missed.

     

    Best wishes for your project!

    Not a businessman, btw :)

    5-11under

  23. Posted

    @5-11 under - If you don't like d-pads, what's your preference, joystick?

     

    Hi doubledown,

     

    Yes, I prefer joysticks (right hand). It's what I'm used to; I grew up with them.

     

    I just bought a Radica Space Invaders all-in-one ($3!) that I'll likely modify at some point... although I'll need to find a suitable keypad (horizontal, like yours).

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

  24. Posted

    Hi Ikrananka,

     

    I've thought about doing the same thing, but moreso to be able to program a (blank) PROM already soldered down and in the case. Then I could create games "on demand" by just doing the programming and slapping on a label.

     

    Looking at the cartridge slot pinout (in the CV FAQ), you'll see 4 active low chip select lines, 8000, A000, C000, E000, each selecting 8K from the 32K maximum space. For a 32K game, there is essentially an and gate (74LS21 for Squares!), leading from those 4 lines to the CS (also active low) line on the memory chip. A zero on any of the 4 lines (ie. if accessing 8000-FFFF) will cause a zero on the memory's CS line (active). Accessing RAM and peripherals (0000-7FFF) will mean that the 4 lines are all 1, resulting in a 1 on the memory's CS line (inactive).

     

    That said, there's another options, too (I think). The 4 chip select lines could also be used not just for chip select, but also for addressing, getting rid of the need for the upper (up to) 2 address bits. I have no idea if this method can or is used... maybe someone else knows, or you'll find out through experimentation.

     

    For the purposes of your EPROM reader, you'll of course just be accessing up to 32K, or 0000-7FFF.

     

    I hope that helps. Anyone else?

     

    Thanks,

    5-11under

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