5-11under

Hi Pixelboy, Me again. Looking at figures 4 and 5 from post #2, I just want to be clear on a couple of things... 1. The PCB sits on top of the red lines, right? So these are keep-away zones for components, but no routed slots in the PCB are required. 2. The blue line would directly interfere with the PCB, and absolutely require a routed slot in the PCB in that area? Thanks, 5-11under

Next questions... When using a CPLD or FPGA to control a serial EEPROM, what is the typical method to access the memory, from the homebrewer's perspective? Is there a lot of overhead required, or is it a simple task to access? The reason I'm asking is because... A fairly simple way (for someone like me, who doesn't fully understand FPGAs and CPLDs) to add memory would be to add a parallel EEPROM, and "chip-select" it into the upper portion of memory. Access to the memory should be easy, but it would reduce the available ROM space by the amount of space allocated to the EEPROM. I might have to try this... . Thanks, 5-11under

Does Opcode use PkK's Megacart? What are the specs on both? Is all the memory non-volatile? Thanks, 5-11under

You can get a decent caliper from Canadian Tire (or your local big-box hardware store) for about $15 if they're on sale ($30 if they're not on sale). The digital readout is easy to read. Just measure the existing PCB, including the location of the half holes, and the hole size from the case. Make adjustments if you think the existing board is too tight or too loose. Measure >2 times, and all should be fine. Pixelboy or Albert, give me a PM if you want me to do any of the following: layout the PCB, order some PCBs, assemble the logic chip. I've done this for the regular Coleco casing, using it for my Squares! game, as well as providing >500 to other customers. Price will be low, especially if you want to order decent quantities. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi Pixelboy, For basic 32K cartridges, I'd go with the PCB in figure 2, rather than figure 3 (of post #2). The 74LS21 chip (or whatever is chosen) can go on the back (soldered first, with the leads bent inward before soldering). That's what my board does. With the Activision layout, it looks like the PCB can be even smaller than the Coleco layout. The PCB and logic chip might end up costing less than $1.25 each, in quantities of several hundred. Thanks, 5-11under

On the emulator I could never get through that desert after Las Vegas. In the arcade, I used to be able to go through several rounds. Now, in MAME, I can't finish the first round. 5-11under

Hi Al, At some point, I suggest a poll, asking people how much they would be willing to pay for whichever benefits would be provided. That can help estimate how much money could be brought in. I'd hope it would end up with a high-volume, low cost solution, something like $20 per year times 250 subscribers. The only features I'm interested in, besides no advertising, is perhaps a regularly scheduled draw (or contest) for some free stuff. I'd consider it mostly a donation. Thanks, 5-11under

If I am understanding you right 5-11under. This file would be burned on a eprom chip, Original BIOS IC would be removed and the eprom would be put in it's place? I love the idea of a 2-3 second delay with no fire button skip feature. I had read somewhere that a delay was needed for some games to load properly. Does your 2-3 second delay allow for all games to load properly... or have I got some misinformation about games not loading with a delay skip? Hi Yurkie, The 2-3 second delay shouldn't have any adverse effect to any games. Looking at the BIOS code, a game could conceivably call the delay, but I'm almost 100% sure there aren't any. Thanks, 5-11under

Doubledown, it looks like you're using a different BIOS than the popular intro skip BIOS out there (the one I linked above). I've got only a crappy hex editor here, but the only difference I'm seeing between the regular BIOS and the popular intro skip BIOS is a section with an "I" (plus an accent), followed by an "h" and a "19" replaced by a "0", "0", "0". I'm guessing the call to the ~10 second delay is merely cut for the popular intro skip BIOS. As an alternative, attached is the BIOS I'll be using for any future work I do. It has a 2-3 second delay, instead of ~10 seconds. Long enough to have a peek at the game title, etc., but not too long that you're waiting for what seems forever. There is no option to skip the BIOS with the press of a fire button in this version. What I've done is change the outside delay loop from 17h to 05h (location 0x196A, I think). Thanks, 5-11under edit: made things a bit more clear. COLECO_SHORT_DELAY.zip

Hi Trebor, It's a ColecoVision. Besides black, white, grey and see-through, there's only 12 other fixed colours available... unless this game is linked with the planned opgrade module. Thanks, 5-11under edit: looks like Pixelboy beat me to it.

Hi marc.hull, Welcome to the forums. The Old Computer has one: http://www.theoldcomputer.com/Libarary%27s...mes_summary.htm There's one out there that I haven't found yet, which allows you to skip the intro screen with the push of the fire button. I've got one at home that I made that changes the ~10 second delay to a manageable ~2.5 second delay, which is what I'll likely be using for any future modifications. I'll try to remember to find it tonight. edit: oops, sorry, it looks like you're looking for chips, not files. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi Coleconut, The label and box look great! Thanks, 5-11under

Jumping into this thread with a similar problem: controller port one automatically fires one shot or jumps once, then the fire buttons no longer work. Would this be the same as the pulling to the right problem with the same solution? Yep, basically the same problem, with the same solution. 5-11under

Carts (minus the labels) proudly made/assembled by 5-11under ... with casings I bought from Pixelboy a while back.

Looks like a fun game. 5-11under

Because the number of people that care about a given obscure game isn't enough to justify the effort... You can come here and say that you love, lets say, Lasso, a SNK game from 1982. The problem is, who else cares about that? Ouch. Sad, but true, I guess. 5-11under

Hi yurkie, I've tried two component to HDMI converter boxes, with very limited success. One converter box worked, but the picture was in 16:9 format, and a little short (!), neither of which is a good thing. My TV was unable to make the picture narrower, to a 4:3 format. It did, however, make the picture more consistent across different TVs (I'm guessing, because I've only tried it on my TV!). With component video, the picture is good on some TVs, but on my TV, I get some vertical colour banding (easily visible in the "red" and green in Smurf's Rescue). Good enough for me, but not good enough to sell to anyone. With the converter, the banding is gone. The other converter box didn't work at all. I haven't had a chance to figure out why, although I'm guessing the results won't be any better than the other box. The quest continues, however. More parts on order, and experimentation to follow... in a few weeks, after my vacation... . Thanks, 5-11under

Man, I like to debate and play devils advocate (see earlier posts in this thread lol), but I can't even begin to start defending that statement... lol I'm trying to erase it from my memory, until he defends his position. I wish I had a ColecoVision Jr., though. 5-11under

I'm curious. Feel free to explain. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi there, I don't normally post in the coin-op forum, but I saw this auction, which looks to have some older items, and may be of some interest to some of you: http://crystalbeachauction.blogspot.com/ Thanks, 5-11under

I'm using: N64: composite A2600: composite CV: component, for now HDMI/DVI/VGA: empty as far as consoles go, for now Thanks, 5-11under

Hi everyone, There's a number of people here, including me, who do modifications to consoles to improve video performance. I'm curious what inputs your TV has? Thanks, 5-11under

Was Coleco a big enough player to cause that much damage to the games industry? I'm guessing no, but that's just a guess. Didn't have an Atari or CV in the '80s, 5-11under

Hi mharnisch, Welcome to the forums. I don't have too much experience with these yet, but I would de-solder and remove the top half of the switches, leaving the "rivet" on the PCB, of course. They're pretty easy to remove. I'm guessing the removed portion looks nice and shiny, but the "rivet" on the PCB is dull. Use an eraser (pink?) to get it looking shiny again, then use contact cleaner to keep it nice. DeoxIT might work well here as an alternative to the eraser and contact cleaner. You might also consider adding dielectric grease to keep the contact free from moisture. I've also added extra thickness (with tape?) to the white ring, in the hopes of making the switches make contact earlier. Hopefully someone else, with more experience, will reply with their own methods. Thanks, 5-11under

Hot-linked image, or am I missing something? 5-11under