5-11under

The fire button on mine needs some TLC, but the directions are fine. 5-11under

Hello all, I recently sold a VecFlash, an older unit that runs from a serial port. It originally had a DB-9 to a stereo 3.5mm headphone jack, however, I seem to have misplaced it. Does someone know the pin-out for this? If not, I could ask Richard H., I guess... but I thought I'd try here, first. Thanks, 5-11under

Is there an easy-to-use download kit for setting up sdcc for CV programming? I've seen some loose instructions, but they looked pretty complicated, IMHO. This was the beauty of the Hi-Tech solution, thanks to Daniel/Marcel. Thanks, 5-11under

Yamaha WX*? Probably not the Lyricon, it sounds like. http://www.patchmanmusic.com/WindControllerFAQ.html Good luck, 5-11under

A little perspective helps - when it was released in 79 it was the first portable to use cartridges. While the screen is crappy compared to a the DS and PSP, it was state of the art for the time. I had a lot of fun with mine, wonder whatever happened to it. True enough. By "crappy" I was referring to the darkened status of most of the pixels of the one I had about 5 years ago. Thanks, 5-11under

I've only played a couple of MV games (with a crappy screen, of course), and they seemed fairly simple. It doesn't seem too far-fetched to be able to simulate the games within 99% accuracy. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi doubledown, Two so far: A Westinghouse 42" LCD and a Panasonic 7" LCD. I've also got access to a 42" Samsung LCD and a couple of different 12-20" Sony CRT studio monitors, which I'll be testing soon. Thanks, 5-11under

Schematic created!: Thanks, 5-11under

I don't have a schematic... Take the outputs from the CV video chip (pins 35, 36, 38?). Each of those will go through the same type of circuit: put a ~3.3K resistor to ground at that point. At the same point, connect one end of a ~500 ohm potentiometer. On the other end of the potentiometer, put a ~100 ohm resistor to ground. I'm using the "~" symbol because I should probably review these values, although the listed ones work fine. At the same point (other end of the potentiometer), connect to one end of a ~22 uF capacitor. The other end of the capacitor connects to three items: a ~4.7K resistor to ground, a ~4.7K resistor to +5V, and to the input of an LMH6734 IC (pins 2, 5, 8?). Leave the other input pins open. You'll need +5V and ground on the appropriate pins of the chip, of course. Send the output pins of the IC to R, G, and B RCA jacks. I think that's it. The most difficult part is probably dealing with the pitch of the IC leads. Options include using an adapter board to convert to a DIP package, which could then easily be hardwired in a variety of fashions, or sourcing another amplifier. Perhaps three of part number LM318 would work, although the surrounding circuit would have to change a bit. Your costs will vary, of course, depending on how you build it. The way I'm planning, the costs for one unit is about $28 for parts, not including PCB, shipping parts, tax. Here's a list of what my costs would be for one unit, to see where you could save money if sourcing other components or using items you already have. I'll be building at least 10 for my own consoles, which will save me money by economics of scale. $7.07 Buffer amplifier $8.46 RCA connectors (6 various) (I already have some of these) $0.43 SMT Transistor (for composite) $1.17 SMT Resistors (13 various) $4.00 Potentiometer (3) $2.21 Wires $2.25 Mounting brackets (3) $1.32 SMT Capacitors (4) $0.03 SMT Capacitor $1.00 Header $0.46 Connector $0.30 Bolts (3)

Hi doubledown, It has YPbPr output, plus red/white RCA connectors for analog audio output. It also has composite output (Ben Heckendorn style) for Atari compatibility. It does not have digital audio output. This modification is for people (like me ) who don't have megabucks. This would retail in the range of $50 to $55 as a kit, including shipping, and is designed to be a good bang-for-the-buck A/V solution for the ColecoVision, and a natural progression from the ColecoVision's internal capabilities. The "kit" mentioned above would be fully assembled, but would of course require installation to solder connecting wires onto the CV's PCB, drill holes in the outer case, and do some cutting to the shielding to make some space for the modification. By "natural progression from the ColecoVision's internal capabilities", I mean this: The video chip in the CV naturally outputs the required colour difference signals (essentially YPbPr), just at a higher voltage level than normal, and without enough power to drive a TV. Therefore it's a relatively small step of attenuating and buffering to output YPbPr from a CV. Same goes for the analog audio output. The sound chip in the CV has an analog output, which is easy to tap into. Providing digital audio output, or VGA/HDMI video output may be beneficial, but the costs would increase out of the range of some consumers, and would require a greater transformation of the signals well beyond the CV's internal capabilities. Feel free to discuss! Thanks, 5-11under

Alright, there's been enough answers right on the doorstop, mentioning ColecoVision and/or component video modifications. That's what it is. The last picture shows the power switch of the ColecoVision, as well as a green RCA connector, part of the YPbPr output. Thanks for playing, 5-11under

Hello again, Some very close answers... and some not so close. Part of the last picture: Thanks, 5-11under

Yeah, I could do that. I ran into some issues, and went back to this version for a while: Thanks, 5-11under

Off topic perhaps, but are the games on this thing faster than they should be, or am I just getting old (or both?). Thanks, 5-11under

Hello again, Here's a couple more unretouched pictures. I think this one was taken at 1/60 second: I think this one was taken at 1/30 second: Thanks, 5-11under

Hi everyone, This is a little teaser picture of a prototype PCB I just received... either to build up some hype... or in the least to have some fun on a Friday afternoon, to see if people can deduce or guess what it is. I should've checked my layout for glaring mistakes before getting it made, but oh well, that's why I only got 2 made, I guess. With some pain, though, they should still be good enough for testing. More information and/or clues to follow below... . Thanks, 5-11under

Hi Gonzo, What RAM chips does it use? Thanks, 5-11under

I used FreePCB (http://www.freepcb.com/) for my ColecoVision cartridges. It's likely not as powerful as Eagle, but for me, it was easier to get started in creating a layout. There's no schematic editor, so it's probably more suitable for smaller projects. Where's the cheapest place to get PCBs made for fairly small double-sided boards in quantities of 2-20? Thanks, 5-11under

Data sheet (scan): http://emu-docs.org/VDP%20TMS9918/Datasheets/TMS9918.pdf 5-11under

That's the highest offer so far. I'll end this in about 24-36 hours. Thanks, 5-11under

I've got one bid so far. Thanks! I can't say from whom, but it's $115. I could potentially send it to the U.K. The only problem is there would be no delivery notification. Thanks, 5-11under

Great idea! 5-11under

Gonzo, I would definitely go with the 4164 as an "almost direct" replacement for the 4116... especially for a portable... I think the only other parts that use +12V or -5V are video parts, which you may also be able to get around. Hmm... the original page seems to have disappeared... http://web.archive.org/web/20060517061134/...m/Dramming.html If you're making a new PCB for the portable, it'd be worth some effort to see if there's a single RAM chip that would be able to replace the 8. Thanks, 5-11under

Hi there, I bought a Krokodile cartridge from the AtariAge store around the beginning of this year (the latest batch). Unfortunately, since then, I've used it approximately once. It's time it finds a new home. It includes the cartridge, instructions, CD, and serial cable (I don't think I'm forgetting anything). I'll ship it from Canada via XpressPost to locations in USA or Canada (about $15?), in a decently padded box. If you're interested, feel free to make an offer. Highest offer of at least $115 over the next 2-3 days gets it. I'll post the highest bid value occasionally. Price will include shipping, so the price you offer is the price you pay. Payment will be via PayPal. Thanks for looking, 5-11under

I'd pick something very popular, so people could compare with their own hardware. Thanks, 5-11under