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Everything posted by 5-11under

  1. I just got notification that the "Delivery Standard" is 07-Dec, although when I made the shipment it said "Guaranteed" 19-Nov. We'll see what happens... .
  2. Probably/mostly less drama in the changing landscape. I don't want people to commit to buying, and then later wishing they hadn't. (I know people have committed a year or more ago, but that's past the "statute of limitations" as far as I'm concerned). I'm also guessing that the minimum order will suffice for a decent period of time. I don't want to get ahead of myself, but if there's sufficient demand, more can always be purchased later. Looking at my previous post, and also post #1, people can pretty much figure out anticipated price and approximate leadtime, if all goes well, and then decide how to proceed.
  3. A few things if anyone is still here... 1) First of all, sorry for the delays in the project, and lack of updates. In the least, I should have left a quick note. For most of the last half year or so, it seems the best I could do is to get the bare essentials completed, with no time or energy available for anything beyond that. I'll leave it at that. 2) The good news, from the customer side of things, is that it looks like there'll be a couple of options to getting your Microvision working properly again. That's a lot better than none. 3) Regarding working together, that might have worked a couple of months ago, but NRE (Non-Recurring Engineering) costs have all been paid out, and there's no real way to recoup those costs without ordering and selling some product. It's not likely that either of us want to pay for the other person's costs incurred so far. 4) I leave it up to you which product you choose to buy. It's not really a money-making project, so I'll be happy enough to cover the upcoming production costs. I'm sure these 2 projects won't arrive on the same day at the same price, so do what works best for you. That's all I really want to say about that. Moving forward, if you're still here... 1) I just sent out enough of the guts of a Microvision, so the supplier can get the contrast worked out. It's supposed to arrive there on the 19th. 2) I've thought about doing down-payment pre-orders, to have a good handle on quantities. I still have some time to decide, but I'll probably just buy the minimum order quantity that the supplier has set. These will be sold first-come first-serve, when I open up for orders. 3) As it turns out, the NRE costs are about equal to the production costs for the minimum order. The NRE costs have been paid a long time ago, so what I'm basically going to do is work out a price where if I sell half my stock, I'll be able to cover the production costs. If and when I sell the second half of the stock, I'll be able to make up for the NRE costs. 4) I'll know my final costs, and therefore the customer's price, when I've got the product in hand. That way I'll know if there's any customs/taxes/fees that I'll need to pay. If I set a price now, I'd have to sandbag it to help make sure all costs are covered and then some. The way it looks now is that the price will be at least as good as what's listed on the first page, although for the first wave of orders at least, I'll be removing the graduated pricing, so if you order 1 or 2 or whatever, you'll still get the best price. Shipping is extra, so that's where you'll be able to save money, if you want to order more than one at a time.
  4. You need your own thread, because this thread is all about the status and comments regarding my project, and one day my orders, positive and negative feedback, and whatever else comes up. It's more confusing if both projects are in the same thread. I see you've already made a separate thread, so that's good.
  5. Sounds great to work together, but from my perspective, the hard work is completed, and the Engineering costs are all paid. I have no reason to stop. Probably about the same for RB, I guess. Basically I just need to send this, they'll look at the voltages and the contrast control, be mesmerized by the 1979 technology, tell me when they've got the liquid or whatever figured out, and I make an order. I guess not all the hard work is completed. The last part, orders and mailing, will take some time. Likely when the time comes, I'll take a couple of days off of work to get all that moving. Oops... nice shadow on the pic... anyway, just push the button (to the right of the display in this picture) to change the display on the Mindbuster game.
  6. BTW, I've got a spare Mindbuster and also Super Blockbuster. We can revisit around the time when the LCD screen is ready. Got any links to your AV game, or other projects?
  7. I bought most of these about a handful of years ago, with a few purposes... completing my collection... getting the non-StarTrek Phaser Strike... a project I was working on at the time to replace the whole guts of the Microvision with modern components, including an Arduino compatible controller... a project to create some games for the Microvision (still in play, but let's not mess up this thread any more than it is).
  8. Also, in the least, I'll have screens for all my "Boneyard" Microvisions:
  9. Okay, after thinking about this for a while, I came up with a few notes. Bear with me, I'm thinking aloud, almost... 1) I've put in close to $1000 US into the project already, and spent many hours in design and communication 2) I'm only a hundred or so dollars away, in shipping charges, from having the project ready for production 3) Hopefully my price will be competitive, and I'll be able to sell at least a small batch of these (in the least), without losing my shirt in the process 4) If I'm wrong on #3, well, then I guess I've lost an additional chunk of change, or in the least I'd be able to get rid of them at some price 5) Given the above, I'm going to keep moving forward with my project 6) It looks like I was contacted about 3 months ago about the status, which seems like a short time to cut in 7) In the worst case (some would say best case ), there'll be 2 suppliers for these thing 8 ) RB, please create a new thread for your project. I have no problem with you continuing your project, but at the same time, I will be continuing my project. Hopefully this will all work out well for the both of us, and for everyone who owns a Microvision who can't play it.
  10. Hi all, Just letting you know that I am still here... it's been a helluva year on a number of fronts... my CV and IntV PCB customers know how slow I've been for most of this year... things are settling a bit around here... getting some projects completed here and at home, and getting back on track in this thing called life. Anyway, I still need to send the supplier my MV so they can set up for the proper voltages/contrast. After that, they'll be ready to produce a batch... I'm ready to send this now... but I see there's been some other things happening. I haven't read every word on the last few page, so I'm not sure the exact status... or how I should proceed next... .
  11. I had an Atari 800XL, which worked well for Word Processing (and more fun things), but in 2nd or 3rd year of College (around '88) we pretty much needed one to do programming. The rich kids were spending $2K+ on brand new 286 machines with orange monitor... poor guy here bought a still-expensive $1K "turbo" XT with green monitor - switch on the front changed speed to/from 4.7/8 MHz. The best thing about the machine was the case... push 2 buttons on the side, and the lid lifted up just like the front hood of a car.
  12. Are these boards better than "ahem" newer versions?
  13. Yep, both those terms should be the same. USB2 vs USB3 for just providing power shouldn't matter. (I think USB3 officially is able to supply more power than USB2, but that really only applies if you're plugging a device into a PC, for instance - where the specs of the PC's output supply needs to have a certain capability).
  14. Yes. It will only use the current it needs, so the 2A adapter can provide power to a 1A or 2A device.
  15. It will probably be okay. The TG likely doesn't need anywhere near 2A, so supplying 1A should be fine.
  16. The replacement screens have the reflector included, all as one piece, by the way.
  17. Sometimes. Sometimes the reflector gets corroded, and needs replacing. Usually that's not the only problem, but it could be.
  18. I love the ZX80 and ZX81, but I will admit that if you're trying to write a book, then those are not really the best choices... but neither is a Post-It Note.
  19. Mini update because my deadline is up... I did some investigation into shipping prices to China - the conclusion is that all methods are expensive. Anyway, the plan is to send this out tonight.
  20. The 3rd and 4th fire buttons map out similar to additional keys from the keypad... so you run into trouble when pressing more than one of any of those.
  21. You'd need a double-pole button, to activate the L and R buttons at the same time. In that case you have 3 options, besides none: 1) L, 2) R, and 3) L+R. If L+R is a fire button, then you wouldn't be able to go left and fire at the same time. You could do Pac-Man... L = left, R = Right, L+R = Up, Fire button = down. There might be some issues when transferring to/from the Up direction to the Left or Right, that would have to be managed. The spinners use two magnetic switches, to basically make a square wave. I think the closeness of the two switches allows you to discriminate the direction. Someone else might know the details better.
  22. Yep, only one missing. Does close count? A lot of these would work (if I'm guessing correctly, and maybe with some limitations)... - A ColecoVision version of Quad-Joust - A tank game (like Combat on the 2600) - A clone of Warlords, with play mechanics that fit joysticks better than paddles - Sport games (basketball, volleyball, dodgeball, hockey, maybe baseball, etc.) - A board game, like maybe a clone of Risk, or something more basic like Monopoly - Four-player Space War [don't know] - Four-player Snake/Surround/Tron Light-cycle game - Racing game à la Indy 500 or Off-Road - Four-player clone of Duck Hunt (with mobile aiming crosshairs) - Pac-Man clone of some kind, with four players let loose in a maze I haven't worked with programming the spinners for more than a few minutes, so I'm not sure.
  23. Unfortunately, you can't use all of the keypad and direction keys at the same time. Basically, for each of the 2 controllers, you have 6 input switches. You can divide that into 4 controllers that have 3 switches each, for example: left, right, and fire. If you want more than that, you'll need to use some trickery... You can take advantage of the fact that you normally can't press left and right (or up and down) at the same time (for a standard controller) - in that case, you can add an additional switch that basically presses both at the same time (and you'd be able to check for that). Now you've got 4 switches per 4 players (with some limitations). You can probably get some data out of the spinners, too. You could use some other more complicated timing routines from the controllers. Sort of a parallel to serial converter that takes all the inputs, and sends out a stream of data to the CV. There's also ways you could hook controllers to the cartridge slot or expansion slot - would need additional hardware, of course.
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