5-11under

Programming guide, and reprogrammable boards. No emulator. Progressing slowly... planning to have it all ready about the same time.

FYI, I'll be buying materials to do resin molding to make new game shells. Other decent options are too expensive. This will take some extra time, because the larger molds (main front and back pieces) for this are not for absolute beginners. I'll need to start with some simpler molds to gain some experience in the molding process.

Awesome, thanks! That will be helpful when I've got my boards.

Okay, thanks! So, I guess it's normally leave the jumper the way it is, and populate the EEPROM that you want/need (if one is required). I'm still interested in finding if there's any games that can be tested, that use the 93C46.

Hi Karri, me being a newbie on the Lynx, you've lost me... could you explain what the "AG" item in the layout is for?... is this defaulting to the 24AA512 chip (left side shorted), and if you instead short the "right side" (and cutting the left side), then you're selecting the 93C46 chip? Also, it sounds like the 24AA512 is a new addition, so... for the 93C46, are there any demos/games available, for testing? Do any of the classic games use this chip?

After the parts arrive and are tested, I'll start sending PMs to everyone who has expressed interest, with instructions on how they can order. It will take a few days to get through all of that. Then I'll plan a vacation day from work to mail out all the packages. So, yes, the pre-order is still open. You're at the end of the line, but I'll make sure everyone who has expressed interest can purchase these. If I happen to run out of parts, I'll buy more (which will take an additional 6 weeks).

One more... So, you can use some sort of brute force method as you mentioned (investigate the CD4066 chip or similar), or you could have your device scan the 5 output lines, and output as required. For example, if you want to press the button at col 2 and row 4, have your device wait for col 2 to be at positive voltage, and then output a positive voltage on row 4. Note that you also might need a level shifter.

https://lastminuteengineers.com/arduino-keypad-tutorial/

The controller is cycling through the 5 keypad output columns (or sets), activating one at a time. When a column is active, the controller is monitoring the 4 input lines. The controller can then figure out which button is pressed... whichever column output is active, and whichever row is active

I think so. It was a few years ago. Best contact Opcode either way, to provide best support, such as a full repair, or replacement label if that's the way the two of you decide to go.

If I had the cash, I'd be thinking the same way. I wouldn't be spending anywhere near the same level if the result is a title screen and totally unplayable or barely started game. A full game that plays decently would be worth a lot more to me. Even a simple low quality video showing some of the screens and a bit of gameplay to prove that it's playable and maybe fun would be beneficial for me... ... if I had the cash.

I just ripped that label off, opened it up, replaced the chip, closed it again, and put the label back on (with 95% of it sticking properly ).

I had the same problem. I ordered one myself, only because it was faster than contacting and getting a replacement or repair from Opcode.

I guess we'll need another thread for best sticker, then?

🍿

These are not widely available, though. I'm going to see if I can add a serial EEPROM to a "half" Megacart board. Seems like a natural next step.

You can also underlay sprites with tiles, if done carefully.

I'm not sure if the local print shop is open. I need to see if they can print on mylar. All the other printing they can do. I also need material for the boxes, which I don't think will be too difficult. Finally, I need to open up enough shells, without breaking them. This is a very short-term solution... I'm working on trying to find a supplier for new shells. All this likely adds up to a month or two, approximately.

One of my goals over the next year is to provide the required elements so that anyone, including yourself, would be able to create their own Microvision game relatively easily. This would include being able to provide any or all of these: Printed materials (and templates if you'd rather get them printed yourself): Manuals Boxes Main label Keypad overlay Bezel Circuit boards, programmable by the user. Boards would feature an Atmega328, that would be programmed using a fairly cheap EPROM programmer and edge connector (other methods may also become available). There's no emulator for this method (using Atmega328 instead of TMS1100), so at this point a programmer and real Microvision are required to test programs that are made. Programming guide and sample program(s), for the Arduino IDE, including all basic requirements for the Microvision. Shells. There's a few options available, but they all come with cost and/or quality limitations. This one will take the most time, and I'm guessing will also have the greatest cost.

One of my goals over the next year is to provide the required elements so that anyone, including yourself, would be able to create their own Microvision game relatively easily. This would include being able to provide any or all of these: Printed materials (and templates if you'd rather get them printed yourself): Manuals Boxes Main label Keypad overlay Bezel Circuit boards, programmable by the user. Boards would feature an Atmega328, that would be programmed using a fairly cheap EPROM programmer and edge connector (other methods may also become available). There's no emulator for this method (using Atmega328 instead of TMS1100), so at this point a programmer and real Microvision are required to test programs that are made. Programming guide and sample program(s), for the Arduino IDE, including all basic requirements for the Microvision. Shells. There's a few options available, but they all come with cost and/or quality limitations. This one will take the most time, and I'm guessing will also have the greatest cost.

Update: I just got word that the ship date for product is 31-Jan.

Yep... the simple solution is to provide the PCB which can be easily swapped out, the manual, and the main label for the game. The next level is the box, which is easy enough, and probably desirable for at least some people. The final level, which is arguably the least important, is the bezel and the mylar overlay. These are easy enough to make (so far; I think), but the shells are glued together, and are very difficult to successfully take apart. If anyone has any solutions to the shell, or has a way to make decent quality shells, please contact me.

If you get 2 PMs, you'll know why... .

Pore over the Microvision FAQ (I didn't have the Hughes datasheet at the time) and the system and cartridge schematics. Hook up a logic analyzer to the data lines between the cartridge and the system. Inspect the data from all the games. Figure it all out. Create a PCB that included all the required items. Start the programming. Make some changes, program a chip, and try it in the system. Repeat ad nauseum. I don't have a guide or anything like that at the moment. Probably some day... .

There's a few other homebrews. I think they're all one-offs physically (or less), and I think they're all programmed for the TMS1100, so they work with emulators.