rockdoc2010

it seems the tandon is a bit off of the others i am getting parts to redo that motherboard so we will see

I am totally happy that i have a happy..

was there a difference from tandon tech to the others one?

nope the posts are solid

It seems that I have a Tandon mech that works just fine with a happy upgrade. but it sticks out like 1/8 inch in front. any thoughts? Douglas

I went through swapping motherboards and mechs for my four drives in total frustration recently until i found that I had a defunct power supply. Just enough power to get the power up and head seek and park at start up but boot error after that. A new power supply and I am back up to two stock and one happy drive. the other was used for parts on my 1088xld.. 9 VAC is what you should read on the supply.. mine was putting out 15 vac so it went in the trash. Douglas

that's two for me! Thank you sir!

its still a bug! IBM encased a bug in plastic and placed it into one of their systems.. you got one for free! Woo Hoo!

Not a single mention of that fact that you have a bug in your system! IBM would be abhorred!

Nope 7.1 is not on the site.. I got 5.3 and 6.6 and both seem to be missing side B.. Dammit Jim! Talk to Scotty!

Well i got 2 more 83S DA 005980 USA 72R DA 06483183 Tiawan

Hello there. Just got my 1050 Happy up and running and I need a copy of Warp Speed Software that will work with on original 1050 happy. Thanks

WOO HOO! Instructions are WONDERFUL! I was able to install my 1050 Happy upgrade with controller into an older TANDON drive and I am HAPPY once again

I haven't purchased an actual mylar yet but i have two keyboards that have came preinstalled and they are great! I have myself repaired two keyboards with silver conductive pen as well as drawing up a small nub of solder on the pads that mate to the mylar, to eliminate that wafer spacer. Cheers!

Nope it just wired up straight up. The thing that stumped me was that it is the ground and not 5VDC that sends the signal. I will find it soon and send you picks. it is possible i had to send it full stroke but the stroke is minimal with the size of the pots and stick. Douglas

I broke one of these out by hand and it is a direct replacement for an atari joystick with all the same numbers across the screen when under test. might be good for your application https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9032 Douglas

Does anyone have a recommendation for the name/quality or functionality of any give board? It seems as thought there are many makers of said board. And is there a tutorial as to how to install the VBXE to the GBS? Thank you Douglas

I sincerely wish to apologize I dropped many f bombs and I was upset but very unprofessional. I hope that I haven't offended anyone. Peace! Douglas

i will look at that. but to fuck up on an xel as well as an xld? its not in the cards.. its not a solder issue! it is a 15 khz monitor issue I an not gonna spend 250$ for a SC`1224 monitor EVER! Douglas

everyone has dead to nuts video and i aint got shit

i got the 1080x1024 to start with. I have a new 1536x960 that i have yet to install. Either way i schould have got some fucked up screen to start with............

JET BLACK SCREEN I have both an XEl and an XLD and I get a jet black screen with no sound on either a Sophia-c as well as a VBXE. Both machines. I get Composite video as well as audio out on both machines I get NOTHING on either the Sophia or the VBXE. I would think that the DVI would work? I have tried it on a smart TV (4k) I have tried it on a 32" Curved Smartsync monitor I have tried it on a smaller older LCD screen that has Component IN, HDMI IN, and SVGA/PC IN...................... I GOT NOTHING The little green LED on the VBXE board lights up. I would not really think that I fucked up both machines as far as the soldering goes. I have 3 most capable?? monitors.. Douglas

BTW, I thought i could use the XEGS cable for the 1200xl but the cable only has 13 conductors. The 1200xl requires 14.. Atari felt that one less conductor (actually two are not connected within the cable) would save them a buttload of money... I am using a 15 HD d-sub cable with all conductors at bay.. I can pull +5V and ground to light up LED's but i only have 1 spare line to light up LED 2 (keyboard disabled .. OR LED 3 International Character set.. I am not sure which one is most important. I dont know which games kill the keyboard nor do I know if the INT CHR set even matters.. I have a keen interest in ATASCHII graphics. Douglas

@Drvenkman Get a hold of Han Zimmers's Mission Impossible 2 soundtrack Totally worth it! @Bee Check out Tal Wilkenfeld! She was on tour with Jeff Beck when she was 16 years old. Peace

WOO HOO! Another 1088XLD is alive and well. After it failed to boot I am pretty sure I messed up the TK-II chip so I reflashed it as well as replacing the HTC logic chips; 174, 08, 138, 4053 and 00. Sometimes a shotgun approach works because it did! I have upgraded to the XLD U1MB as well as SDX 4.49. Now the Sophia C and VBXE are yet to work but at least the BOB and SDrive Max from The Brewing Academy work great. Thanks Marlin! The Sophia runs straight to DVI and I would think that it wouldn't be a problem. My LCD has HDMI as well as component in but my RGB plugs come from a SVID HD-15 to component cable and I assume that they are correct. I haven't yet tried them with my BOB yet but I will now that I have working systems. I see that on my XEL there is a 10PIN cable header that I can attach for the Sophia pass thru and I see a difference in the XLD vs XEL pass-through namely the ground connection is not used on the XLD pass-through. Nice to have two 1088' up and running for now! Cheers