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Posts posted by rockdoc2010
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cbelcher, I hate seeing naked 1088XEL boards. Not that there is ANYTHING wrong with not having it in a case, but . . . I did a test print of a case. It's not perfect, and I need to run a lid for it, but since I am going to run another print to test out some changes, I would *gladly* send you this case for the cost of shipping. Just so you could protect that nice piece of machinery (and I could sleep more easily at night
. Again, nothing against it or anything, but I saw this post and I have this thing . . . . Let me know. (The backplane is just to show the fit, it is one of the things I need to tweak. It works, but not to my satisfaction).Wow you have a printed case! so you do that sort of thing on your offtime..hehehe
is this tru?
also can i use two dual cf adapters? I really like the pretty blue top lid but i already have the dual backplane, so.....are these units compatible like the multi IDE cables suggest?
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sorry the piano was drinking. i tried to plug in the idc into the JTAG
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He evidently used a micro header in stead of a standard IDC header..
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So anyway
I got the new U1MB from lotherak
and the large headers work like a charm
but the little header dont fit at all..
Douglas
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BTW,
What is the key capacity? can i use a 104 key? Atari only had a 54 key board!????
Douglas
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Schematics for every Atari related gizmo I've made are on my website. Use the link in my signature to take you there, then click on the TK-II tab. Or better yet use the TransKeys link
.Found it and i am in grossed in fingering it out thanks. I thought the schm files were for your mini boards but it seems that the most of your mini boards are connector space..
Thanks
Douglas
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Hello 576XE
We've had something like that:

They probably didn't sell enough to redesign them for the XL and XE series.
Sincerely
Mathy
PS it's the CX85
But the switch matrix is mechanical and the drivers are needed to use this thru the joystick port. but you could in theory wire the switches into a 1200XL or likewise keyboard during breakout.. ie wire the CX85 swithces to your mylar..
Douglas
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I would check the connector at the motherboard as well as the resistors associated with the data lines from the keyboard.
Get the matrix as in last post and test continuity between the switch matrix
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A pinout of the TK-II would really help..
Thank You!
Douglas
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Hi Bill,
Yep that's what I thought as well

However in order to be able to have Start, Select, Option, Reset from the keyboard, it will require some jumpers be soldered internally to the D-SUB 15 connector. Minimally at least the reset capability should be added in this way, which is a very simple short distance jump. But it is not an absolute requirement, more for ease of use, since this key does tend to enter the picture often when developing code.
It really is too bad that these signals weren't routed out to the keyboard in the first place, since there were enough unused pins to allow for it, and the console switches do exist on the XEGS's keyboard (just no buttons). This also assumes that only one pin would have been dedicated to GND and another for +5VDC, unlike the doubling up that was done (kind of stupid considering that only two low power CMOS chips are used in the XEGS keyboard). This of course makes it more difficult to use these pins for other things, since the D-SUB 15 connector would need to be fully removed (desoldered) in order to cut the power trace connection on the top side of the motherboard. But like I said it is not a requirement that the extra signals be implemented for TransKey-II in order to work.
XEGS Keyboard Connector Pinout
Edit: Just to be clear, the TransKey-II-XEGS model will already have the connections for Start, Select, Option, Reset routed to its D-SUB 15 connector, two of which will be via on board limiting resistors, in case the XEGS has not been modified and the +5VDC and GND connections are still intact. Don't want to blow out the TransKey-II's I/O, if plugged into a friends unmodified XEGS.
So one is the mylar breakout of the XEGS and the other is the board for the XEGS matrix keyboard.
The matrix board is otherwise known as the "Keyboard Sub Pcb" atari pn C100425 Rev 2
It appears to have a series of 470ohm pull up resisters to deal with the cable length, but i could be wrong but the 1200XL dont have them.
I am very interested in adding a 1200xl keyboard to my 1088xel project using a cable.
Thanks
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Just a question about old midi vs new midi...
I see that BEST is selling an old ATARI MIDI peripheral. Are there any differences in the new MIDI keyboards vs the ones from the mid eighties?
In other words if the new keyboard has power, MIDI in and MIDI out, I would think it would work with the older ATARI MIDI peripheral.
Douglas
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can anyone tell me the orientation of Q3 and Q4 transistors under the Pokey chip?
Douglas
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Ok, everything is socketed, plugged in, going green. Oh, wait! No video cable for Sophia!!! But the board looks great. I'll work on cable this week;--)
Good catch Michael! I'm waiting on my Video jack to come in as well to give me composite/S-video options.
I may be old school but I am not one room old school..
Can I run the UAV as well as the VBXE simultaneously?
Douglas
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Moving along slowly but surely as I have many other things requiring my time. I have found it with my stopping and starting to keep up with my progress to use Michael's PCB Layout and BOM to highlight items that I have soldered in, plus to select my next components to solder based on the preferred sequence outlined by Michael.
where did you get that white motherboard image?
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Wow nice!!!

If you have a U1MB and a UAV ready to pop in (and of course all the other chips) you could be up and running very soon
. The mouse select board isn't required to test the mouse or for that matter to use it. For a quick and dirty solution I use a shorting block to select either Joyport1 or Joyport2. Since a lot of mouse apps allow for port2 to be the mouse, that is the one I'll often leave jumpered in, thereby leaving port1 free for a joystick or paddles.I've never updated the U1MB from a V1 to V2, so I'm certainly not the one to answer that question, but I do believe Dropcheck wrote up a good tutorial on doing just that a little while back. Hopefully she'll read this and pop in with a link.
Mouse select?!
I remember back in the 19th century latter half.. I bought a Thing called a RAT.
It was a Mouse for the A8 but it was aptly named
I also had a thing called the Parrot (sic) which was the first entry into audio recording for the A8 sorry tangent..
So can I use a stock ST mouse with this mousetari thingy?
I do recall that a hack could be done on a stock atari trackball to turn it into a mouse.. damn i am old!
Anyway I am more interested in a stock 1200xl keyboard (with the cx-85) keypad (WIRED IN FOR NO DRIVERS NEEDED) for my 1088kel laptop build
BUT BABY STEPS are good.
ONE 1088XEL is good lemme go back to that
Douglas
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But me and Paypal dont get along and Wells Fargo thought Fraud because i bought out of country... so i am in limbo for the purchase.. [email protected]@it Jim!
Douglas
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I dunno.. But he is selling this one now for 64$ USD I do believe.
It is called the U1MB Upgrade.
Douglas
His page states that all of them are now with straight header. Current rate is 84.95$ with shipping.
Douglas
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I dunno.. But he is selling this one now for 64$ USD I do believe.
It is called the U1MB Upgrade.
Douglas
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anyway it doesn't matter Lotherek is gonna send me one with straight headers. yes i will pay but then i have two of them.
Douglas
BTW i know how to desolder stuff.
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anyway it doesn't matter Lotherek is gonna send me one with straight headers. yes i will pay but then i have two of them.
Douglas
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A must have. Digikey pn ED2108-ND
CONN IC DIP SOCKET 40POS GOLD
low profile and comes with a decoupling cap
8.10$ a piece
Other sizes as well
All my sockets on my 1200xl ran me about 80$
Turns out they are 9.10 apiece but they are gold plated.. also i spoke with a hacker on another AA trend and he stated that the dual decoupling caps actually will help any noise.
I just felt that a build would require a good foundation
Douglas
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The 2 pin header you keep referring to is for configuration of the U1MB to tell it to be an XEGS. This is where you would place a shorting jumper if you wished to have it boot up as such. Since it is not needed to connect to anything on the 1088 motherboard, that is the reason there is no female header to mate with it.
As you have learned the hard way. Knowing how to solder something, is not the same as knowing how to properly de-solder components from an already assembled PCB, which is much, much harder. This is an acquired skill that requires considerable practice and patience to master. It also requires knowing the proper technique, such as cutting apart a multi pin header into individual parts prior to the attempt to de-solder it from the board.
I am sorry you are having so many problems with modifying your U1MB.
well i have done that. i take them out one pin at at time and stop after four or five.
i come back later.. frame of mind or the what not
Yes desoldering means destroying a board if not done correctly.
I hope it lives till the morrow
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The 2 pin header you keep referring to is for configuration of the U1MB to tell it to be an XEGS. This is where you would place a shorting jumper if you wished to have it boot up as such. Since it is not needed to connect to anything on the 1088 motherboard, that is the reason there is no female header to mate with it.
As you have learned the hard way. Knowing how to solder something, is not the same as knowing how to properly de-solder components from an already assembled PCB, which is much, much harder. This is an acquired skill that requires considerable practice and patience to master. It also requires knowing the proper technique, such as cutting apart a multi pin header into individual parts prior to the attempt to de-solder it from the board.
I am sorry you are having so many problems with modifying your U1MB.
thank you for the clarification.. the lost pads will be dealt with i hope at the source i have cash but 70$ for a header issue chaps my hide!
Once again i bow to this build. not you but all of the guys involved have made my day! i can solder and i understand a bit but i do bow to those that make the ATARI live beyond its years,, If i could get you all together in one place I would buy you all a very expensive shot of scotch!
and then i would ask if you had any spare parts...
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Bringing the 1027 printer back from the dead
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
Hay kinda the same thing here. I would love to help in the process. I don't care if it sounds like a machine gun but has anyone thought of silicon?
Kinda a pink orange rubber that is very easily molded yet I am unaware if it work well at these small dimensions.
Side note... I am VERY interested in a clean case to mod a 1200XL keyboard enclosure for a 1088XEL build.
Thanks! I will repost in WTB.
But feel free to PM me
Douglas