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Everything posted by low_budget

  1. I don't plan on designing any replacement PCBs for other 8 bit Nintendo systems at this time. The top loader NES is a lot less common than the front loader, and there would be many extra challenges. There would be less room on the PCB for any extra circuitry and controller ports would be difficult to desolder and reuse. I'm working on the next revision of the NESessity, and I'm open to suggestions. Possibly add an 8p mini-DIN connector for RGB replacing the composite RCA connector? Possibly add a SP3T switch for palette selection near the expansion port (when using a NESRGB?)
  2. Introducing the NESessity front loader NES PCB replacement. I am currently working on getting good CPU and PPU chips and I have ordered a blinking light win cartridge slot replacement so I can do full testing. I even ordered a high quality desoldering tool so I can remove CPU and PPU chips easily. Everything fits perfectly in the original case. My first build will be basic with only composite video output to ensure everything is compatible and functions correctly. I'm not too worried because I've built over 40 Super 8 Bit systems. The CPU, PPU, and connector for power/reset board must be reused from the original PCB, but everything else is new. The Famicom expansion connector is there replacing the useless original expansion slot, although admittedly it may be difficult to plug some things in without some kind of extension cable.
  3. I have some updates on my NES front loader PCB replacement: This kit will consist of the new motherboard and a RF module replacement PCB (without RF.) Some features that will be incorporated: 15p Famicom expansion port in the location of the original unused NES expansion port Famicom microphone support Stereo sound with auxiliary cartridge input Can be assembled with original RF shielding 2 reset modes selectable with jumper: NES front loader reset (with screen blanking) or Famicom style reset (cpu only) No lockout chip PPU is in identical location to original NES so any video mods that fit original will fit here Can use original AC NES power adapter or modern DC power adapter RF module replacement board has room for larger heatsink on 7805 regulator (can also be used with switching regulator) RF RCA connector replaced with composite, and R L audio RCA connectors now on right side. (Former) channel select switch is still there and can be wired for any purpose, such as palette selection Works with original power / reset button PCB I'm taking time away from assembling my Parsec supergun project working on this so hopefully things work out! It will be a simpler project than the Super 8 bit, as I don't need to manufacture the expensive aluminum cases and I don't need to worry about parts supplies as much.
  4. I have uploaded all info I have that I used to design the Super 8 bit PCB. Super 8 bit IC connections.pdf
  5. Please calm down people. I am willing to open source some of my Super 8 bit drawings and notes in the near future. I will not be sharing PCB design files. I never made a complete schematic of the Super 8, rather some hand drawn schematics and a spreadsheet of the major IC connections. As I've said before, I have no plan to make any more Super 8 bit consoles. However, I am working on a replacement NES PCB at the moment. It will not be a replica or reproduction, but essentially a Super 8 bit redesigned to fit into a NES front loader case. I cannot say for sure if this will ever be released, but I am working on it. I like the work Redherring32 is doing, and if there isn't much demand for the "super 8 bit ized" version I may scrap the idea.
  6. I no longer have any PARSEC v1.0 boards left so I did a redesign, the new v1.1 board. The v1.1 PARSEC Supergun has the following Improvements over the v1.0 PCB: Thicker 1.5 oz copper layer Wider +5v traces can handle loads up to 15A 3 unused component footprints removed controller ports now even with board edge removed unsightly jumper wire to JAMMA connector (necessary on v1.0 because I forgot to connect video ground pin 14) test and service button locations swapped some improvements to component placement and footprint design connection points on PCB for A/V modification possibilities (such as adding RGB adjustment pots) it's purple now The v1.1 circuit is the same as v1.0 so no changes there. The HAT board I'm making will work on both versions of the PARSEC. It will take me a while to assemble small quantities of v1.1 PARSEC systems and additional HAT boards. I'll need to order parts and set aside quite a bit of time, so this will be a while. I'm also working on a component video hat I will have available soon. I am waiting for some parts to arrive to complete the first batch of Parsec Superguns. Several parts were back ordered so my assembly process was delayed a couple weeks. I'm considering offering the Parsec in kit form, but I'm not sure the best way to do this. I suppose I could make up a preorder list. I have 30 bare Parsec v1.1 PCBs on hand, which I will assemble in batches of 10. I could offer the Parsec about $10 cheaper without the ebay or tindie fees. No deposit required, just send me a PM and I will let you know what number you are. I'm thinking February 17 I will have the first Parsec v1.1 Superguns assembled, tested, and available. While all I need to do is finish the assembly of the through hole components, it's still very time consuming (especially the JAMMA connector.)
  7. Added extra pictures and the controller port / kick harness wiring I used. Looking like I will have these built and tested around December.
  8. I've been working on a new project the last 4 months. I built a new design Supergun PCB that's designed to connect to most TVs with the fewest additional components, while still offering high quality RGB video for various monitors and video converters. I decided to call it the PARSEC because why not. The PARSEC v1.0 has the following features: JAMMA, JAMMA + compatible 24 pin ATX power input connector (also works with 20 pin ATX) Pushbutton on/off switch (optional) onboard -5v regulator provides up to 1.5A Power on/off switch for -5v regulator LEDs indicating presence of +5v, -5v, +12v, and standby power Built-in NTSC video converter Genesis 2 A/V connector for RGB video Composite video and s-video jacks Audio output to 1/8" stereo line out jack or Genesis 2 A/V connector stereo / mono switch Audio attenuation circuit with isolation transformers Neo Geo controller ports for players 1 and 2 with standard supergun pinout Credit, test, and service buttons Kick harness connector Buttons 4 and 5 on JAMMA connector can be disabled with DIP switches Basic button remapping option using jumpers: "select" on Neo Geo controller connects to button 5 or can insert coin I'm definitely making 10 of these. It is possible I may make more based on feedback. I might also make various HATs for additional RGB connectors such as a VGA style or 8p mini DIN. Pricing will be $120 + shipping for the basic version and $135 to add the onboard -5v regulator. Send me a PM if you would like one. Thanks!
  9. The USB ports on the Nintendo Switch dock are always powered on if it's plugged into power. I don't think there's an easy way to make an auto on/off switch for the fan. I just plug it in when needed. Here's the USB cooling fan I used: https://www.amazon.com/Yoosion-Cooling-Router-Computer-Watertank/dp/B01KTG4208/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504146830&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+fan+40mm+yoosion The Switch gets warm in portable mode, but never feels like it's getting too hot. It only gets hot while playing in docked mode for long periods.
  10. Switch dock fan cooling is something Nintendo should have included in my opinion. The Switch runs warm in portable mode. The poor design of the Switch dock and the overclocking while docked make it run too hot. Nintendo designed a nice looking dock that scratches unprotected screens and traps heat. The intake airflow is partially restricted and the plastic surrounding the handheld acts as an insulator complete with heat insulating air gaps. The Nintendo Switch ( handheld) has an internal fan just below the top exhaust vent. There are 2 intake vents on the back of the system near the bottom. The best approach to better cooling the Switch while docked would draw hot air out of the top exhaust vent. Unfortunately, how to securely mount such a fan and remain easily removable would be a challenge. My solution was to mount a fan in the hinged door of the dock. It blows air into the intake vent to aid cooling. I have also drilled vent holes in the rear panel after removing it. These vent holes allow the open space between the plastic to ventilate the heat trapped in this area of the dock. Testing so far looks promising. The Switch's internal fan is barely running afterward, and the speed increases only after the dock cooling fan is unplugged for a while.
  11. I have sold my last available Super 8 bit system in April. I will not be making any more Super 8 bit consoles The reasons are numerous: 1. Too many retro NES consoles available now. 2. Other retro consoles being sold actually have money for advertising. 3. Other retro consoles cost 1/4 what a Super 8 bit costs to build. 3. Building Super 8 bit systems mostly by hand and removing CPU / PPU chips is an INSANE amount of work. 4. This project took way too much of my time and I'm taking a break forever. A total of 40 Super 8 bit consoles [with aluminum cases] were built. I made even more than that if you include the Polycase AG versions that didn't have the Famicom cartridge slot. I sent the very first Super 8 bit I made to the Angry Video Game Nerd. I'm kind of disappointed because I think he gets lots of donations and he's never even used it. Oh well I worked on the original version Analogue NT project in its early stages. That did NOT go well. That decision really hurt the chances of the Super 8 bit being more successful. Actually that was my fault because I made the mistake of trusting someone I never met in person. Easily one of the biggest mistakes of my life working on that project. Never trust anyone that wants to profit off your creation would be my advice to any other potential entrepreneurs. Yep, I thought designing and building a NES console myself was so incredible at first. Now 5 years later I just wish I could have been satisfied with regular video mods to original consoles. I am really proud of my design and worksmanship on the Super 8 bit. I do think I built one of the best NES consoles available anywhere. That doesn't matter too much when a machine can make them by the hundreds or thousands using all modern components for very cheap. Hand built Nintendoes are a lost art I guess....... Thank you everyone that supported this project and thank you Atariage for always being a great video game forum!
  12. Wow ok I didn't know this topic has been resurrected. My s-video mod schematic could use some improvement, and I'm sure better video mods have been developed since. I stopped working on the s-video mod around 2012 to focus on the Super 8 bit. I didn't know a RGB mod was available for the Atari 5200. The mod by Simius looks really nice. When I see the cool things other people are making lately, I wish I knew how to program FPGAs.... I could share my PCB design files if anyone wants to make their own boards or modify them.
  13. Forgot to mention the original project thread started here on atariage: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/203257-nes-super-8-project/page-9?do=findComment&comment=3643625 The Super 8 project inspired analogue to take my idea and make the Nt. Then they advertised everywhere, got lots of $500 preorders and didn't ship systems for an entire year while making excuses. They even lied and said they had the only NES system that uses original hardware. I guess my honest business style isn't nearly as efficient at generating profits. So, this is a hobby project and i make next to nothing. The consoles are top quality and not mass produced in China.
  14. Well these consoles are a fully custom design built by hand in low quantities so it's not possible to sell them for $200. Design a surface mount PCB and machine assemble it with modern components and order 100 of them then it will be cheaper. I've received nothing but positive feedback for the systems i've sold. Yes they use original CPU and PPU chips from an original system I built a whopping 30 systems over 2 years so I don't think that made a dent in the 60 million Nintendoes that were produced. Does everyone that had a Nintendo when they were kids want them back now? I don't think there's going to be a shortage. The systems i've used for the chips had cracks, names written in sharpie, really bad paint jobs, missing doors, bad yellowing, etc. A FPGA will never be as accurate as games played on the original CPU/PPU silicone wafers. They'll get very close, but you're still playing a hardware reproduction.
  15. I'm selling the last of my Super 8 bit game consoles for a lower price on my website www.lowbudgetify.com The Super 8 bit is the only aftermarket Nintendo 8 bit console that uses original hardware. This allows the Super 8 bit to have the most authentic gameplay. More authentic than FPGA and much more authentic than emulators. The Super 8 bit can be assembled with the NESRGB for analog video and CRT compatibility, or the Hi-Def NES for digital video output to modern flatscreen TVs. (The NESRGB and Hi-Def NES cannot be used at the same time.) The Super 8 bit is available ready to use with NESRGB installed for $499. I am not offering the Super 8 bit with the Hi-Def NES included. The $299 version of the Super 8 is best for use with the HDMI board. The Super 8 bit system is available in 2 versions: -Complete Super 8 bit system with NESRGB, PPU, and CPU installed. In Stock $499.00 -Super 8 bit system without the PPU, CPU, or NESRGB board included. In Stock $299.00 A Hi-Def NES installation works and fits perfectly. With the free composite video amp PCB installed, analog composite video and stereo audio can be used to retain CRT compatibility.
  16. Pictures of the final, finished system. It can be assembled into a NESRGB or a Hi-Def NES system. The analog video outputs are not usable with the Hi-Def NES assembly, while there is an unused cutout for HDMI if the NESRGB is used. The RCA analog sound works in either configuration.
  17. The Super 8 bit v3.2 pre orders will be accepted tomorrow (10/6) at 6:00pm central time. The enclosure will be designed to accept the HDMI NES or the NESRGB. I was waiting to announce this because I only recently was able to test the HDMINES and create extra room for mounting the PCB. Still working on case revisions which should be completed in 2 weeks. its CRUNCH TIME
  18. Sorry, I haven't checked here in a while. Took me a while to determine the price. Looks like I've got about 9 hours labor in each fully assembled system. Also got an estimate on building the custom aluminum enclosures. The Super 8 bit v3.2 fully assembled with NESRGB and CPU / PPU is $549 There will also be one available without the CPU / PPU or NESRGB included for $399 I updated the pre order details here: www.lowbudgetify.com
  19. I am selling my last v3.0 version Super 8 bit console complete with CPU / PPU and NESRGB ready to play. This system has an aluminum enclosure with a raw aluminum finish. Ready to paint or powdercoat. $439.00 includes shipping to USA. Thanks for looking!
  20. Wow, no updates for a whole year. No, this project is not dead. I am making 14 more Super 8 bit systems with a new design, v3.2. There's not going to be any big new changes on this version, just lots of small improvements and refinements to the previous v3.0 PCB. I've been working very hard on design, assembly, and acquiring the necessary parts to complete the systems. www.lowbudgetify.com Here's some pics of the prototype
  21. I have some PAL region Turbografx 16 consoles for sale. They are brand new and include all the original pack in items, except the Blazing Lazers game. The composite video output of these systems is not compatible with NTSC TVs. Includes: PAL region turbografx system with rear cover Controller Stereo Composite A/V Cable 220v AC Power adapter RF cables Instructions Original box $139 each, Or $129 each for 5 or more quantity. Plus shipping
  22. These are button caps that I would like both on the same design file so I could print both at the same time. I may need a minor redesign if I print the file and the fit is not correct, should be no more than one possible revison needed. I will send a $30 paypal payment once I have a workable 3d printable .stl file. I've done this before and it worked out well. This shouldn't take much time to draw up, but I just haven't invested in the software or learning to use it.
  23. Finally, after many delays, I got my TIG welded aluminum arcade cabinet fully functional. I am happy with that for now. This was a very ambitious project and quite expensive. Yep, taking a break from finishing this project for now. It's got some cool features Light weight TIG welded aluminum endoskeleton design. 25 inch flatscreen tri-mode RGB monitor. 2 way 4x6" stereo speakers with 20W stereo amp. Supports JAMMA and Neo Geo JAMMA (with stereo sound). Large wood shelf holds any JAMMA game I've tested, Primal Rage even fit! Lighted insert coin, test, and service buttons hidden under control panel. Monitor adjustment board mounted near front of the system for easy adjustement while looking at the screen. HAPP 15A Arcade power supply plus a 5A 12v supply for the amplifier, fans, and LED lights. Heavy duty caster wheels with locks. It will eventually have a lockable door on the left side to access everthing inside. The only things left to do are just cover up everything. The monitor looks kind of dangerous in the middle of a grounded aluminum cage without any protective covers. So to finish this near-neverending project, I need to: Cut diamond plate aluminum side panels for right side. Cut diamond plate door with cam lock and mount to left side. Cut thick plastic sheet panels to go around monitor and mount. Design some sort of bezel to go around the monitor. May have another update again next year.
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