low_budget

I haven't updated here in a while, but I did make more Super 8 bit PCBs and the NESessity is now on version 1.4. Both are available on Tindie.com as bare PCBs or complete parts kits.

Thank you everyone for the feedback. Looks like there isn't much interest. I uploaded the 3d renders of the mounting plate anyway, I'm happy with how the design turned out but I guess I won't be making any. I'm still open to making these if at least some Atari VCS owners would be interested but it is what it is.

I found the stock heatsink / fan combination in the Atari VCS to be completely inadequate for my use as a mini PC running Windows 10, with temperatures averaging over 80 degrees C and sometimes reaching 90 degrees. I did increase the RAM speed to 3200 MHz and increased the TDP to 54w. I looked into upgrading the original Atari cooler, but there are very few options with the limited space available. I could not find any heat sink / fan combinations that had 70mm x 50mm mounting holes and fit in such a tiny space. The Atari VCS doesn't have good ventilation either, with only 2 small vents in the rear of the console. I figured out a solution that will fix all overheating issues with the Atari VCS, although it is a bit taller than the original cooler and would require case modifications. It is a 6061 aluminum plate that allows an XBOX 360 copper CPU heatsink to be mounted to and cool the Atari VCS. The mounting plate I designed would screw to the XBOX heatsink with countersunk screws and make a completely flat surface on the bottom. The thickness is the same as the original cooler so spring pressure on the APU would be the same. For those unfamiliar, the XBOX 360 CPU heatsink (from the early gen versions) has a copper heat transfer plate, heatpipe, and about 4x the fin surface area of the original Atari cooler. A 60mm fan would be used to cool the XBOX heatsink. There would be a few options for powering this fan. The easiest would be using a 5v fan connected to USB power. I looked into making a fan adapter cable, but the Atari fan connector is so small, I've tried 1.25mm pitch 4p JST cables and it's still not small enough. It should still be possible to simply cut off the original fan and splice the wires into a common 4 pin pwm fan connector. Is anyone interested in my Atari VCS heatsink upgrade, even if it requires case modification or leaving the top cover off while using? I'll post some photos of the 3D render soon. If I can get 20 or so people interested in the upgraded Atari VCS heatsink I can have the machine shop make a batch. Estimated cost is $20-25 for each mounting plate.

I am considering making another run of Super 8 bit PCBs after not making any since 2016. Would anyone be interested? Unlike before, this will likely be a small production run of the bare PCBs, I don't plan on making the powder coated cases (unless there is a lot of demand.) Send me a PM if you would like one, and if there is enough interest I will begin taking preorders.

I have updated the parts list for the NESessity v1.3 because several parts on the last version are out of stock or end of life. I also have NES - Neo Geo controller adapters available. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-to-use-Neo-Geo-Arcade-Controller-with-Nintendo-NES-Console-2-Player/184709166961?hash=item2b01863771:g:CUEAAOSw5FxgTNX~ NESessity v1.3 Parts List.pdf

I have version 1.3 of the NESessity now available https://www.tindie.com/products/low_budget/nesessity-v13-replacement-pcb-for-nes-console/ I will also be offering the NESessity in kit form once the parts arrive. Improvements over v1.2: changes to the motherboard shape to allow a much larger heatsink for the 7805 linear regulator extra solder pads on power switch connection, reset pins, and controller ports allow Borti's A/V power board replacement to be used various trace optimizations and component footprint improvements I have installed the NESRGB and IGR mod boards. The wiring is a bit simpler as the extra 5v regulator included with the NESRGB is not needed and there are solder pads to connect the IGR mod. Since the NESessity uses the reset circuit from a top loader NES, set the "LO" jumper on the IGR. I am also working on a NES - Neo Geo controller adapter. Basically a standard controller circuit x2 wired to Neo Geo controller ports. I hope to have this available soon.

I have the most active forum thread for the NESessity on shmups system11: https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=66487 I will try to check Atariage more often as well to answer questions. The bare NESessity PCB is available here: https://www.tindie.com/products/low_budget/nesessity-v12-replacement-pcb-for-nes-console/ I have a couple assembled NESessity PCBs currently on eBay. Youtube video for the latest v1.2 NESessity: Eventually I plan on building 25 NESessity PCBs (w/o CPU and PPU) and hope to have them ready late January 2021.

I have the new version NESessity PCB v1.1 tested and working great. So far I have built a simple composite video only NESessity, and I will be building a NESRGB modified version soon. Even though there are no new major features on v1.1 over v1.0, I have incorporated many bugfixes and other improvements into the overall design.

I am working on many things at the moment and really can't devote the time required to bring back the Super 8 bit. While it would be easy to just order more PCBs with the previous design, making custom parts like the sheet metal aluminum case and controller ports is very expensive and requires a large order. There are some issues with the v1.0 NESessity PCB I am working on, and I hope to have them resolved soon. I hope to have a new version NESessity PCB available this fall if things go to plan.

I don't plan on designing any replacement PCBs for other 8 bit Nintendo systems at this time. The top loader NES is a lot less common than the front loader, and there would be many extra challenges. There would be less room on the PCB for any extra circuitry and controller ports would be difficult to desolder and reuse. I'm working on the next revision of the NESessity, and I'm open to suggestions. Possibly add an 8p mini-DIN connector for RGB replacing the composite RCA connector? Possibly add a SP3T switch for palette selection near the expansion port (when using a NESRGB?)

Introducing the NESessity front loader NES PCB replacement. I am currently working on getting good CPU and PPU chips and I have ordered a blinking light win cartridge slot replacement so I can do full testing. I even ordered a high quality desoldering tool so I can remove CPU and PPU chips easily. Everything fits perfectly in the original case. My first build will be basic with only composite video output to ensure everything is compatible and functions correctly. I'm not too worried because I've built over 40 Super 8 Bit systems. The CPU, PPU, and connector for power/reset board must be reused from the original PCB, but everything else is new. The Famicom expansion connector is there replacing the useless original expansion slot, although admittedly it may be difficult to plug some things in without some kind of extension cable.

I have some updates on my NES front loader PCB replacement: This kit will consist of the new motherboard and a RF module replacement PCB (without RF.) Some features that will be incorporated: 15p Famicom expansion port in the location of the original unused NES expansion port Famicom microphone support Stereo sound with auxiliary cartridge input Can be assembled with original RF shielding 2 reset modes selectable with jumper: NES front loader reset (with screen blanking) or Famicom style reset (cpu only) No lockout chip PPU is in identical location to original NES so any video mods that fit original will fit here Can use original AC NES power adapter or modern DC power adapter RF module replacement board has room for larger heatsink on 7805 regulator (can also be used with switching regulator) RF RCA connector replaced with composite, and R L audio RCA connectors now on right side. (Former) channel select switch is still there and can be wired for any purpose, such as palette selection Works with original power / reset button PCB I'm taking time away from assembling my Parsec supergun project working on this so hopefully things work out! It will be a simpler project than the Super 8 bit, as I don't need to manufacture the expensive aluminum cases and I don't need to worry about parts supplies as much.

I have uploaded all info I have that I used to design the Super 8 bit PCB. Super 8 bit IC connections.pdf

Please calm down people. I am willing to open source some of my Super 8 bit drawings and notes in the near future. I will not be sharing PCB design files. I never made a complete schematic of the Super 8, rather some hand drawn schematics and a spreadsheet of the major IC connections. As I've said before, I have no plan to make any more Super 8 bit consoles. However, I am working on a replacement NES PCB at the moment. It will not be a replica or reproduction, but essentially a Super 8 bit redesigned to fit into a NES front loader case. I cannot say for sure if this will ever be released, but I am working on it. I like the work Redherring32 is doing, and if there isn't much demand for the "super 8 bit ized" version I may scrap the idea.

I no longer have any PARSEC v1.0 boards left so I did a redesign, the new v1.1 board. The v1.1 PARSEC Supergun has the following Improvements over the v1.0 PCB: Thicker 1.5 oz copper layer Wider +5v traces can handle loads up to 15A 3 unused component footprints removed controller ports now even with board edge removed unsightly jumper wire to JAMMA connector (necessary on v1.0 because I forgot to connect video ground pin 14) test and service button locations swapped some improvements to component placement and footprint design connection points on PCB for A/V modification possibilities (such as adding RGB adjustment pots) it's purple now The v1.1 circuit is the same as v1.0 so no changes there. The HAT board I'm making will work on both versions of the PARSEC. It will take me a while to assemble small quantities of v1.1 PARSEC systems and additional HAT boards. I'll need to order parts and set aside quite a bit of time, so this will be a while. I'm also working on a component video hat I will have available soon. I am waiting for some parts to arrive to complete the first batch of Parsec Superguns. Several parts were back ordered so my assembly process was delayed a couple weeks. I'm considering offering the Parsec in kit form, but I'm not sure the best way to do this. I suppose I could make up a preorder list. I have 30 bare Parsec v1.1 PCBs on hand, which I will assemble in batches of 10. I could offer the Parsec about $10 cheaper without the ebay or tindie fees. No deposit required, just send me a PM and I will let you know what number you are. I'm thinking February 17 I will have the first Parsec v1.1 Superguns assembled, tested, and available. While all I need to do is finish the assembly of the through hole components, it's still very time consuming (especially the JAMMA connector.)

Added extra pictures and the controller port / kick harness wiring I used. Looking like I will have these built and tested around December.

I've been working on a new project the last 4 months. I built a new design Supergun PCB that's designed to connect to most TVs with the fewest additional components, while still offering high quality RGB video for various monitors and video converters. I decided to call it the PARSEC because why not. The PARSEC v1.0 has the following features: JAMMA, JAMMA + compatible 24 pin ATX power input connector (also works with 20 pin ATX) Pushbutton on/off switch (optional) onboard -5v regulator provides up to 1.5A Power on/off switch for -5v regulator LEDs indicating presence of +5v, -5v, +12v, and standby power Built-in NTSC video converter Genesis 2 A/V connector for RGB video Composite video and s-video jacks Audio output to 1/8" stereo line out jack or Genesis 2 A/V connector stereo / mono switch Audio attenuation circuit with isolation transformers Neo Geo controller ports for players 1 and 2 with standard supergun pinout Credit, test, and service buttons Kick harness connector Buttons 4 and 5 on JAMMA connector can be disabled with DIP switches Basic button remapping option using jumpers: "select" on Neo Geo controller connects to button 5 or can insert coin I'm definitely making 10 of these. It is possible I may make more based on feedback. I might also make various HATs for additional RGB connectors such as a VGA style or 8p mini DIN. Pricing will be $120 + shipping for the basic version and $135 to add the onboard -5v regulator. Send me a PM if you would like one. Thanks!

The USB ports on the Nintendo Switch dock are always powered on if it's plugged into power. I don't think there's an easy way to make an auto on/off switch for the fan. I just plug it in when needed. Here's the USB cooling fan I used: https://www.amazon.com/Yoosion-Cooling-Router-Computer-Watertank/dp/B01KTG4208/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504146830&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+fan+40mm+yoosion The Switch gets warm in portable mode, but never feels like it's getting too hot. It only gets hot while playing in docked mode for long periods.

Switch dock fan cooling is something Nintendo should have included in my opinion. The Switch runs warm in portable mode. The poor design of the Switch dock and the overclocking while docked make it run too hot. Nintendo designed a nice looking dock that scratches unprotected screens and traps heat. The intake airflow is partially restricted and the plastic surrounding the handheld acts as an insulator complete with heat insulating air gaps. The Nintendo Switch ( handheld) has an internal fan just below the top exhaust vent. There are 2 intake vents on the back of the system near the bottom. The best approach to better cooling the Switch while docked would draw hot air out of the top exhaust vent. Unfortunately, how to securely mount such a fan and remain easily removable would be a challenge. My solution was to mount a fan in the hinged door of the dock. It blows air into the intake vent to aid cooling. I have also drilled vent holes in the rear panel after removing it. These vent holes allow the open space between the plastic to ventilate the heat trapped in this area of the dock. Testing so far looks promising. The Switch's internal fan is barely running afterward, and the speed increases only after the dock cooling fan is unplugged for a while.

I have sold my last available Super 8 bit system in April. I will not be making any more Super 8 bit consoles The reasons are numerous: 1. Too many retro NES consoles available now. 2. Other retro consoles being sold actually have money for advertising. 3. Other retro consoles cost 1/4 what a Super 8 bit costs to build. 3. Building Super 8 bit systems mostly by hand and removing CPU / PPU chips is an INSANE amount of work. 4. This project took way too much of my time and I'm taking a break forever. A total of 40 Super 8 bit consoles [with aluminum cases] were built. I made even more than that if you include the Polycase AG versions that didn't have the Famicom cartridge slot. I sent the very first Super 8 bit I made to the Angry Video Game Nerd. I'm kind of disappointed because I think he gets lots of donations and he's never even used it. Oh well I worked on the original version Analogue NT project in its early stages. That did NOT go well. That decision really hurt the chances of the Super 8 bit being more successful. Actually that was my fault because I made the mistake of trusting someone I never met in person. Easily one of the biggest mistakes of my life working on that project. Never trust anyone that wants to profit off your creation would be my advice to any other potential entrepreneurs. Yep, I thought designing and building a NES console myself was so incredible at first. Now 5 years later I just wish I could have been satisfied with regular video mods to original consoles. I am really proud of my design and worksmanship on the Super 8 bit. I do think I built one of the best NES consoles available anywhere. That doesn't matter too much when a machine can make them by the hundreds or thousands using all modern components for very cheap. Hand built Nintendoes are a lost art I guess....... Thank you everyone that supported this project and thank you Atariage for always being a great video game forum!

Wow ok I didn't know this topic has been resurrected. My s-video mod schematic could use some improvement, and I'm sure better video mods have been developed since. I stopped working on the s-video mod around 2012 to focus on the Super 8 bit. I didn't know a RGB mod was available for the Atari 5200. The mod by Simius looks really nice. When I see the cool things other people are making lately, I wish I knew how to program FPGAs.... I could share my PCB design files if anyone wants to make their own boards or modify them.

Forgot to mention the original project thread started here on atariage: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/203257-nes-super-8-project/page-9?do=findComment&comment=3643625 The Super 8 project inspired analogue to take my idea and make the Nt. Then they advertised everywhere, got lots of $500 preorders and didn't ship systems for an entire year while making excuses. They even lied and said they had the only NES system that uses original hardware. I guess my honest business style isn't nearly as efficient at generating profits. So, this is a hobby project and i make next to nothing. The consoles are top quality and not mass produced in China.

Well these consoles are a fully custom design built by hand in low quantities so it's not possible to sell them for $200. Design a surface mount PCB and machine assemble it with modern components and order 100 of them then it will be cheaper. I've received nothing but positive feedback for the systems i've sold. Yes they use original CPU and PPU chips from an original system I built a whopping 30 systems over 2 years so I don't think that made a dent in the 60 million Nintendoes that were produced. Does everyone that had a Nintendo when they were kids want them back now? I don't think there's going to be a shortage. The systems i've used for the chips had cracks, names written in sharpie, really bad paint jobs, missing doors, bad yellowing, etc. A FPGA will never be as accurate as games played on the original CPU/PPU silicone wafers. They'll get very close, but you're still playing a hardware reproduction.

I'm selling the last of my Super 8 bit game consoles for a lower price on my website www.lowbudgetify.com The Super 8 bit is the only aftermarket Nintendo 8 bit console that uses original hardware. This allows the Super 8 bit to have the most authentic gameplay. More authentic than FPGA and much more authentic than emulators. The Super 8 bit can be assembled with the NESRGB for analog video and CRT compatibility, or the Hi-Def NES for digital video output to modern flatscreen TVs. (The NESRGB and Hi-Def NES cannot be used at the same time.) The Super 8 bit is available ready to use with NESRGB installed for $499. I am not offering the Super 8 bit with the Hi-Def NES included. The $299 version of the Super 8 is best for use with the HDMI board. The Super 8 bit system is available in 2 versions: -Complete Super 8 bit system with NESRGB, PPU, and CPU installed. In Stock $499.00 -Super 8 bit system without the PPU, CPU, or NESRGB board included. In Stock $299.00 A Hi-Def NES installation works and fits perfectly. With the free composite video amp PCB installed, analog composite video and stereo audio can be used to retain CRT compatibility.

Pictures of the final, finished system. It can be assembled into a NESRGB or a Hi-Def NES system. The analog video outputs are not usable with the Hi-Def NES assembly, while there is an unused cutout for HDMI if the NESRGB is used. The RCA analog sound works in either configuration.