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gliptitude

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Everything posted by gliptitude

  1. I added pictures of the Vectrex boxes, which do not include any 3D games. All but Cosmic Chasm has the top flap cut off but Cosmic Chasm has a tear on the front. Galaxy II has no sound but works otherwise. I think it would be repairable because it used to work and I think just broke a solder joint. Price for these items is $700 and includes everything else in the pictures except the NES console and SFC stuff. For an extra $100 I will deliver withing 200 miles of Ohio.
  2. I have a pile of stuff for sale. I'd love to sell it all at once and in person, but not having an easy time locally. Sold or no longer available items in the pictures: NES console, all Super Famicom items, Rad Gravity NES game, Dark Tower Vectrex game. Again I'd love to sell all of this at once in person as a lot for a decent price. The three Vectrexes are all in need of repair. Moderately off center one is poor cosmetic condition, rough cartridge slot I hesitate to insert valuable cartridges in, but works. Way off center one is average cosmetic condition in general but missing the brightness knob. The other has no picture and no sound but is in good cosmetic condition and makes a crackling noise when the power is switched on. One of the controllers has slightly bent thumbstick. One Vectrex is missing a rubber foot. I am considering doing the loose GCE Vectrex stuff differently. Shown here is about half of my spares but am considering instead keeping the spares and selling my full set. I have every U.S. overlay in good to excellent condition, and every non-3D U.S. cartridge and manual. There are four nice condition CIB vintage Vectrex games, RipOff, Spinball, Berzerk, Bedlam. The other vintage Vectrex boxes are empty. I'm not sure about the stack of classicgamecreations games. They are all top condition and include some great games but I don't want to "ruin our hobby". I was lucky to get this batch at the very end of production. Three limited Fury games are Zantis, Sundance and Continuum. The other is Sectis I decided not to sell. Other Vectrex that I may make available is a light pen, either original or Recycled Gamer, a broken disassembled control panel, unassembled analog DIY joystick kit.. Rando box has broken-for-parts NES and Odyssey 2, untested PS2 controllers, Atari iPad joystick and other incomplete, broken or low value odds and ends. PS2 slim has significant cosmetic damage but works. Includes great condition green controller and small but great game lineup, Ico, Shadow of the Colossus, Sega collection, Capcom collection, Dragon Ball Z Budokai 3, Marvel Ultimate Alliance, two memory cards with many things unlocked including all Colossus hard mode bonus items, arcade versions of Sega vectors Tac Scan and Zektor.. Commodore 64 takes 20 minutes to power on. I haven't used it much but tested it two days ago and timed the warm up period. I have no idea the issue, if this is common or chronic or what. Disk drive and cassette drive are not tested.
  3. I had a lot of fun with emulation on the Wii and generally considered the Wii controller options a strength of this setup. The Wii Classic controller is an excellent and robust wireless option that works with pretty much all emulators and it isn't hard to find or pay for one. Best of all is using the Wiimote motion controls for 2600 paddle games, a truly excellent way to play these games. The nunchchuck is fun too especially if you just want a different feel, rather than competitive gaming. I used it a lot for Atari, Game Boy, NES and SNES, in various configurations. For Atari usually directions with stick in left hand and fire button on one of the Wiimote buttons in my right hand. But I also played some games with one hand with the fire button mapped to the nunchuck. Even occassionally played NES this way, one handed with both A and B mapped to the nunchucks buttons. I have a solid gamecube controller on hand but never end up using it because of these other options. Part of the joy of this setup is playing old consoles wirelessly. I experimented unsuccessfully with a cheap 3rd party SNES-Mini control pad. There was lag issues and it also seemed to interfere with the Wiimote's normal function. But OEM might work better.
  4. .. Here is my progress and pretty much my conclusions and where I will leave it, in case anyone is ever interested in this. In general, using the Wii Classic controller helped a lot and provided the most versatile standard. MAME is not as user friendly as most console emulators and it is tricky (or in some configurations, impossible) to have multiple controllers or configurations set up for the same game. With several fundamentally different controller options available on Wii, I found it necessary to choose one and only the Wii Classic satisfied all of my needs. I think a GameCube controller might work as well and be a little easier to configure but I wanted a wireless option. If you don't know, the Wii Classic is a pad type controller that plugs into the Wii remote and was made for use with Virtual Console games. It is like a more ergonomic SNES pad with the addition of two analog sticks. It is easy to get messed up assigning buttons within the Wii MAME app. If you don't know the protocol it is easy to accidentally assign a long list of multiple buttons. Also the motion controls are available so it is easy to accidentally assign them, either as an alternative or as a necessary part of a combination. Try to set the remote still when you are entering buttons. Configure general settings button mapping and user interface button mappings first with the Wii remote by itself. You might find it useful to turn some off, (although I'm not clear on how to reset a button to "none" or "NA" so I think I assigned them all to the same button that I know not to use or plugged in the nunchuck and assigned to that). Just configure the basic ones you need to the remote. This includes directional controls in menus which may be with remote held horizontally by default, but I prefer to hold it.. like a remote. To start from scratch scroll to the button you want to assign in the menu, press button A on the Wii remote, (or the button you have otherwise assigned to menu selection in general settings/user interface, I think it starts as button 2 on the remote). When you scroll to the button and select it it clears the assignment and awaits a new one. Select the new one by pressing it on the controller. After you press one button and let go, that one button should be the only button on your controller assigned to the corresponding emulated button on the arcade game. If you leave that button highlighted in the menu and don't scroll away from it and press A on the remote again, (or selection button) it will await your next button press as an additional alternative button, which will be added to the list with "or" before it. To clear it out and start over just scroll away and back, select and reassign. To add more stay there and select and input them one at a time. An additional unfortunate problem that I can't explain is that there seems to be some problem with the standard analog stick, the LEFT one, even when it is correctly assigned, which I could only completely resolve by using the right analog stick instead. (Before settling on the Classic controller I failed completely to get the nunchchuck controller configured for directional controls, either in digital or analog joystck games). For the two shooters I have that are originally programmed for ordinary digital joysticks, I have two buttons assigned for each direction so that either the D-pad or the RIGHT analog stick will control it. Both work well. For the one game I have that originally uses an analog flight stick, I assigned both the left and right analog sticks on the Classic controller, so that either one will control it. However only the right one is reliable. Also I found it necessary for both sticks to be assigned as non-inverted, (non-flight) orientation, unlike the original arcade game. The two sticks on the controller seem to be tied to eachother somehow and the inverted Y seemed to be problematic. For the two driving games with analog steering I did use the left analog x-axis and it seems to work, although it obviously doesn't give the sensitive positional control of a real steering wheel, which is large and non-centering. But single X axis assignment of the left stick like what is needed for steering seems to be okay and not have the problem of dual axis joystick directional controls on the left stick. For assignment of analog input there are three assignments to make for each axis, (rather than the two for the digital equivalent). You must assign the potentiometer first. Then separately assign increase and decrease. Assign the potentiometer to X axis by pushing stick left or right or Y axis up or down. One tutorial I read said that increase and decrease are only for calibration and don't need to be messed with. But I found this not to be the case, in part because positive and negative were sometimes in the opposite orientation of what I needed. For increase press the stick in the direction you want for increase. Then assign decrease by pushing the same stick in the opposite direction. One of the driving games I configured had an analog gas pedal, which I assigned to the right stick on the Classic controller, and has to be configured a little bit differently in order to function like a gas pedal, since the stick is self centered and will give half pressed gas pedal in resting position if configured the way described above. .. GORF/Juno First/Space Harrier/Night Driver/280 Zzzap ..
  5. I set a couple Wiis up with the homebrew channel and some emulators a few years ago. Now I'm trying to streamline one of them and get all the settings and collections where I want them to give to my sister and her kids. .. It looks like the status of emulation has changed a lot, I assume mostly as a result of Nintendo defending their copyrights more aggressively. I was not able to download updated versions of the emulators, let alone ROMs. I even tried the "homebrew internet", an app that loads through homebrew channel and seems to be a small private network of Wii home brewfor download straight to Wii. .. Anyway, sticking with what I've already got loaded, I've never really gotten MAME working well and I'm looking for tips and resources on this. My main problem is setting the controls on the games that do load, (I figured out that most of the games I was trying to play are not on the shortened game compatibility list for the Wii version of MAME). Changing controls within the menus in MAME on Wii is kind of a mess for me, especially for analog control games. Sometimes my changes generate a config file that I'm able to view when I look at the SD card on my computer, but it doesn't seem to reflect all settings and the changes I make within MAME on Wii seem to save every time eventhough a config file is only sometimes generated. Do people save and share config files? Is it a simple matter if I attain suitable config files and drop them in there? I just have a few games, Night Driver, 280 Zzzap, Juno First, Gorf and Space Harrier. Juno First is the only one I can get the controls somewhat playable, although I am not able to get the analog stick to work for directional control like I'd prefer, (Wii nunchuck or Wii classic). I am able to get analog sticks to register SOME input on Space Harrier, although not correctly or sensibly. .. Juno First is not originally analog directional controls but Space Harrier IS. .. The driving games appear to have analog steering controls and may also have analog pedals for gas and brakes. .. On a side note, while I'm reviving this very old thread on what might be a sketchy topic, the Wii 2600 / Stella is more accessible than what I'm asking about here and besides convenience, (and more legal ROMs) is actually a uniquely wonderful way to play VCS paddle games, and not super difficult to configure. Playing Night Driver with motion controls is amazing.
  6. gliptitude

    VecFever

    Can I pay someone to show me their VecFever? We could meet at a private residence or workplace or arcade or wherever will allow it, throughout the Rust Belt or North Atlantic U.S./Canada, where I intend to be traveling next month. If desired I could bring my repro 3D Imager and a couple distinctive controllers, an additional Vectrex or two, overlay collection, AtariVox+, beer, pizza...
  7. 1. Yars' Revenge 2. Juno First 3. Cosmic Ark 4. Subterranea 5. Encounter at L5
  8. I'm not sure what you mean by "analogue input" on your tv. The RCA (red/yellow/white) would be an incompatible analog input, composite video. The Atari cable needs to terminate in a coaxial plug that plugs into the coax socket on the tv, which might be labeled antenna or cable on the tv. The Atari cable might just be like a single (black)RCA on both ends which seems to fit perfectly in any of the red/yellow/white ones on the tv but that isn't where it goes. It needs to convert to coax. Originally it went into one of those RF boxes with the tv/game switch on it like the ebay items linked above. You can get one of those or you can get something much leaner and simple that is just adapting one plug type to the other.
  9. I like that you're open to improvements or changes. I'd even encourage just something different and new. .. I don't agree that there is saturation or no need for another Vectrex controller. I've seen the news of several great ones in the last year or two, like the ones mentioned in this thread. But I've never been in a position to acquire one when the time was right and am still interested to see new projects of this kind for Vectrex. .. I would say the standards are set pretty high at this point though. With the design in the photos in the original post, I think one basic change should be to put the removable plate on the bottom rather than top and have instead holes in the solid metal case for the buttons and stick. I suppose this will complicate the button mounting, but it helps justify and demonstrate that the thing is made out of metal. Also have the outside finished like the inside rather than black, for the same reason. The "electronics" are very important and need to be figured out. It isn't that complicated electronically but it is more of an issue of sourcing quality components and figuring out the look and feel and function of them and how they will mount. .. In a very different direction, I have a rare and wonderful Atari joystick that I have always fantasized about using on Vectrex. It is an excellent geometric shape that looks cool and fits in the hand and the little stick looks and feels very much like the one on the original Vectrex controller, although you have more comfortable access to it in this orientation. .. This design, made out of (unpainted) steel or aluminum, with button 4 on the top right, button 3 top left and 1 and 2 lower down on the left - would be amazing! .. It might seem ridiculous to squeeze the buttons in like I'm suggesting, but I have a Vectrex adapted Atari paddle that does just that and it works, in an even smaller frame, albeit with tiny buttons. .. For the joystick and cramped 1 and 2 buttons you can consider that many games only use 3 and 4, or even just 4, (Fortress of Narzod) during gameplay. 1 and 2 are often only for menus or for alternate steering controls in steer thrust games like Star Castle.
  10. Weird that War of the Worlds was that low since it is the only one that can't be bought budget or downloaded and I thought it had become kind of the most popular Fury game. I sold my spare for $200 last spring. .. I traded my CIB Polar Rescue for 3D Sector X a few years ago and it was probably my most valuable game until the budget version came out. The game is one of my favorites and the trade was worth it to play a year or two before the budget one. But today I'd just buy the $10 version.
  11. gliptitude

    VecFever

    The scene has changed because of facebook and the VecFever is a monument to that. There is an idea of a "community" but that community is instantly subject to universal access and crowd-based consensus building. So when there is something like the VecFever which is actually perfect, it is completely consumed within moments of being revealed, or even before it is revealed.
  12. gliptitude

    VecFever

    Maybe I could pay someone meet up and show me their VecFever. Or maybe an event could be organized for a group of players and owners.
  13. gliptitude

    VecFever

    Oh, that is different than the one already listed. I can conceive of paying that amount. I'm not sure I would do it or be happy about it, but I can imagine my unemployed self borrowing $300 to buy one right now. Or I would otherwise be willing to part with what Vectrex rarities I still have if that was what was desired.
  14. gliptitude

    VecFever

    Huh? What currency is that? It sold for over 1000 USD.
  15. gliptitude

    VecFever

    I think there are too many people who want this thing for me to have it. I blame facebook.
  16. Hmmm. So you don't know of any Apple II computers taking a joystick plug like the one in the photos? .. I don't know where anyone would get a stock photo of such an obscure joystick, so I think it's got to be the actual item. .. The Apple-first-adapted-later-by-the-manufacturer explanation makes some sense and I had gotten a similar theory on Atariage in the past when asking questions about my strange 2600 joysticks made by TG. Thanks for finding and providing this. It's definitely interesting and relevant. I was actually just messing around inside another Apple joystick hoping to adapt it but not understanding what I saw. This article confirms there is a bit more going on in there. .. If I land this TG one for sale it will be an interesting comparison. .. Trying to bargain with this seller I'm going to mention that it doesn't look like it's Apple compatible. The price seems way high to me.
  17. I haven't got an Apple II or any vintage computers but I have the means to use gameport analog PC joysticks on my Atari 2600 using an adapter I bought on eBay from a guy in Greece who makes them. It's pretty cool when it works. I'm posting here to ask about Apple joystick conventions, which seem to vary. And I'm wondering if there is any compatibility with other computers, (or if there is maybe any existing products to make them compatible). As far as I know, "gameport" is a PC convention. It uses a 15 pin male serial plug. I see "Apple II" joysticks on eBay with a variety of plugs. It seems like usually either a male db9 or the primitive and fragile looking type with pins sticking out the bottom of an elongated cube. .. Then I see some that look like 15pin serial. Sometimes they are called "8 pin" and only have 8 pins, but they look like they are still in a 15pin serial plug. Do these conform to gameport standards? Here's one I'm looking at right now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TG-Products-Vintage-Apple-II-Joystick-Controller-Tan-Black-and-Red/352188598905?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055359.m2763.l2649 .. I have another joystick I bought on eBay which does NOT work with my adaptor because it requires a BASIC program to calibrate it on the PC. Is this the sort of issue I'd run into with Apple 15 pin joysticks? Maybe they have different potentiometer values or something? .. On a side note, I really like the joysticks and paddles that I've seen made by TG, and they seem to have focused on Apple, but I rarely see them for sale. If anyone in these Apple boards has any TG devices to sell or trade please let me know. I have some TG paddles for Apple, (with the primitive pin sticking out plug) which are so damn sexy, but I have no way to use them. I'd love to figure out a way to play on the 2600 with them, especially if it could be done with some sort of adapter and without hacking the paddles. .. I also have a rare pair of Atari joysticks made by TG that I absolutely love, but have broken down with use.
  18. Thanks for the suggestion. That would be nice looking but very hard to fit in I think and it might conflict with my grip while I'm playing.
  19. As a single adult man with no friends who play video games I'd be embarrassed to play it or buy it, whether it was cardboard or plastic, but I think it is a fantastic idea. I suppose if it were made out of something other than cardboard it would be too expensive, or they'd have to justify the existence of each piece with multiple games. The bigger pieces might kind of be a burden to own eventually, so it works out that it is disposable and reproducible. If they can get consumers used to the idea of playing video games with cardboard, there is a possibility of many more designs and implementations, for a different type of gaming without breaking the bank. I also like that it undermines the collectors and the re-sellers and re-asserts the idea that a game is to be played with, not cherished and preserved.
  20. I adapted an Odyssey 2 joystick to Atari with an arcade joystick and button. I've had this laid out and assembled for a while but just wired it up today. My only complaint is the joystick shaft spinning freely which I think is always a pain in the ass but maybe comes up more often in this design because of the size and shape. Overall this is quite good in function and the look and novelty of it is sweeeet. I have another Odyssey joystick I might try do a cleaner job on.
  21. I think it could be done if you were business minded about it, (make set numbers of identical products, promote them, brand them or otherwise devise a desirable signature). But there is an anti-profit culture in the homebrew community that more or less brands you as anti-scene if you profit significantly. Not that there are aggressive scenesters who enforce this, but it still just pans out that way I think. Basically the money undermines the fantasy. I think an inbetween method is to make a numbered addition, execute it perfectly, charge a reasonable price that allows for modest profit, establish a reputation for that limited edition product, then years after it is sold out, auction off a few more, perhaps with one-of-a-kind modifications. .. Reselling rarity is the best prospect in my opinion, and if resellers are doing it, why not content creators too? A "rare" item is much more valuable than an obscure item. .. A friend of mine described an interesting phenomenon in the "flashlight scene", where these flashlight enthusiasts collaborated (in the flashlight forums) on the specs and design of a high end flashlight. Then they contacted manufacturers to appraise the production cost. They pooled money in the forums and kept a list and basically individual flashlights were pre-sold. After production was complete the pre-orders were fulfilled and remaining stock was sold for something like double the pre-order price. I guess it's the same as the crowd funding websites, but it is done from within the community and the profit is kind of deferred to those who are outside the community or who didn't participate for whatever reason. It's a bit different with hardware that can't be duplicated the same way as a game.
  22. It's crazy that it's like that and that eBay knows about these exploits and that when they happen and are confirmed eBay still can't override or do anything to fix it. Maybe at that point they just let it play out in order to let the transaction fail without offending anyone. Why they set you up as a seller to accidentally offer international shipping I can't really explain. When I had to talk to them on the phone about the Global Shipping problem though I think she said it was a new program. So maybe it will be more transparent in the future, if the program survives.
  23. Not sure I follow all this but it seems like a glitch or system exploit that the seller was aware of and using to scam. It reminds me that I encountered a glitch also beyond eBay's control a couple months ago with an international buyer. I had to cancel the sale in order to avoid having to ship a Coleco tabletop game TO JAPAN for FREE. Basically at the time (maybe still?) if an international buyer "requests an invoice" they have permanently bipassed the Global Shipping Service for that transaction and it is impossible for eBay to bill them for the shipping. I'm not sure the end game, if they just hoped for free shipping or if they would make an item not received claim afterwards too, but the eBay rep eventually told me there are scammers requesting invoices for this reason and that this looked like a scam. I got a flurry of international offers around that time and guessed they were all related to the scam.
  24. I am suggesting it is a bad faith relationship and a bad faith contract and I am suggesting that "astonishment" is an unfounded emotion to have in response to the described behavior. Above all else I am suggesting that the quantity of the thing matters, that all of the quantities matter and that the entire transaction is quantifiable. We haven't even referred to a hypothetical example of a canceled sale and I'm not going speak in platitudes on what is right or wrong because we aren't actually talking about what is right and wrong if there are no quantities. If a buyer who is out no money because the seller has refused him, no I am not astonished and no I don't feel I need to make a record of that seller's identity for future reference. And if that is the first and ONLY example a person gives of a "bad seller" problem, it leads me to believe that the bad seller problem is an insignificant problem, at least in the experience of the accuser.
  25. Mine is staple2559 I don't really want to make it personal, especially after the other thread. But I have no sympathy for you when a seller declines to sell you something at an unreasonably low cost, which is the reality of what was described and which was the ONLY example Bodyshots gave of an "astonishing" "bad seller". I know that it's annoying to have a winning bid canceled for that reason and it's happened to me several times as a buyer. But a moment or two later I get over it because I don't feel ENTITLED to have a stranger ship a physical product to me for a financial loss. There is no "gotcha" scenario that justifies that. It is immoral. They didn't trick you, they made a mistake. It was an absurd scenario you were literally gambling on ripping them off. Then when they split you want to chase them down, "hey I ripped you off fair and square get back here". No I do not want to be involved in shunning that person.
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