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liquidcross

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Posts posted by liquidcross

  2. Posted

    I find it amusing that people don't understand the concept of having a cart in the system before powering it up.  Must be those new fangled CD systems that brought about that mentality :D I always thought the red screen of death came up with no cart inserted - but I guess only if they'e improperly seated in the slot.

    Hey, you could power up NES, SNES, etc with no cart in there...the power light still came on. With the Jag, I was getting no response from the system whatsoever; no light, no signal, no nuthin'. ;)

  3. Posted

    I'm sure you know this but I didn't when I first got my jag so I thought I would mention it.  You have to have a game plugged into the jag for it to power on.  I thought mine was broke to because I bought it at a flea market and it didn't come with a game.  But after I found this out I bought a game and then it worked fine.  :)

    Ah, really? Cool! I'm in the process of hunting down a copy of Tempest 2000. I'll be sure to pass this on to my friend; he was having a similar problem.

     

    Many thanks! :D

  4. Posted

    If it's not a Jag supply, PLEASE make sure it's the right polarity...though D4 looks big enough to stop reverse voltage it's obviously not intended to do so ;) Doesn't stop you melting U38 (the power regulator) if you use a 3rd-party adaptor tho...

    It was an official Jag adapter. ;)

    Try it out, anyway, if not then stash it away somewhere and use it in case you damage part of the case of your new one ;)

    That's the plan. If it doesn't work, I'll swear up a storm, then threaten a few folks on this board in order to secure a new deck. :D

  5. Posted

    I won a deck only off of eBay, and there was no guarantee that it worked or not (the guy had no accessories, so he couldn't test it). It was only a few bucks, so I figured I didn't have much to lose.

     

    Anyways, I borrowed an AC adapter from a friend of mine (I know that works; I doublechecked it with a voltmeter), plugged it in along with my RF switch...and the deck won't power up. I disassembled the unit, and discovered that something had been spilled into the cartridge port and formed a sticky residue (probably juice or the like). I'm going to try cleaning it off, then attempt to power up the system again. All ports and connections are intact, and in great condition.

     

    Any other suggestions? Somehow, I get the feeling that finding a replacement deck would be a real pain in the ass... :ponder:

  8. Posted

    $5??? You got off lightly. I ordered some stuff off them ages ago and got one of their new catalogues a little while ago...I believe it was a £15 handling fee on orders under £75, and a flat-rate shipping fee of £20. Needless to say, the catalogue went straight in the bin after seeing that bit...:roll:

     

    Stone

    Holy shit! That's insane! :x

  12. Posted

    It's part of the engineering resistor notation - while 1,000,000 ohms is written 1M, and 2700 ohms 2K7, it's sensible to have another symbol meaning 'units' rather than having people potentially confused over the numbers. The idea is to remove the decimal point, so it's possible to print it in really small letters on components...and just to insulate engineers from the world a little more :) Sorry if I caused confusion ;)

     

    Stone

    No problem. I'm just used to writing 1M ohm, 2.7k ohm, etc. :D

     

    Anyways, I'll get the work done sometime next week. My friend's sending me a Jaguar deck, so I'll have to track down some accessories for it after I return from my vacation this weekend.

  13. Posted

    My advice would be not to mess with the resistor at all...it's only 330R and can easily cope with taking a tiny bit extra voltage with a 3.3V LED (whatever the hell they are). The protective resistor is only there to limit the amount of CURRENT going into the LED - as it's a junction drop, it'll take whatever voltage it needs and leave the rest of the 5V across the resistor. Simple. Kinda...;)

     

    Leave the resistor alone and replace the LED - I'd be 95% certain it's not gonna die. If you replace the resistor with a zero-ohm one and the LED doesn't contain its own current-limiting resistor then it can draw near-infinite current from the power supply, which WILL blow it. Not worth the risk, IMO.

     

    Stone

     

    Stone

    Cool. I'll just nab another 3.7V blue LED, and try that.

     

    Out of curiosity...what's the "R" notation you used for the resistor? i.e., "330R". Do you mean 330 ohm?

  14. Posted

    Channel 3/4 switch

    Hm. Odd. you'd think "3 4" would be better notation than "[] O". :roll:

     

    I think mine's on the "circle" setting now, and it's actually playing on channel 2 (I use a RCA-to-coax adapter rather than a RF switch).

  17. Posted

    It sounds like one of the 7800's color adjustment pots got out of spec.

    Do you have problems with just 2600 games or 7800 games as well?

    To adjust the color pot you need to open the 7800 and remove the metal RF shield. Near the center of the board are two pots. The top one controls the 7800 color, and the bottom one, 2600 color. Good Luck.

     

    Mitch

    Ah, okay. That's what I figured, but I wasn't exactly sure if that's what those two pots are for. Thanks! :D

  22. Posted

    I'd be careful about this thing if I were you... a lot of people have been hyping up the fact that it plays all these emulators, including GBA and SNES and such. However, I've heard that many of the emulators are not as good as advertised, and the GBA and SNES stuff is especially wanting (Not a big surprise really... how well do you expect it to emulate a current system?)

     

    I'm not saying you shouldn't buy one, because it's definitely an interesting machine... but make sure you read up on some reviews before deciding.

     

    --Zero

    Oh, I'm well aware. Me getting one is a WAYS off now anyways, due to the price ($200+ for the frontlit version). I just want to make sure it would work okay with the hardware I've got. :D

  23. Posted

    I've been playing my SP like a bastard since mid-February (yes, I imported a Japanese one). I love that thing; I sold my original GBA to my friend, and now we play link-up Advance Wars games all the time. :D

     

    The only flaws with the unit? The aforementioned lack of a headphone jack, and the recessed Start/Select buttons can be a pain to quickly trigger if you've got big hands like I do. Worse still is trying to reset a game by pressing A + B + Start + Select all at once. It takes some real effort. :D

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