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svenski

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Posts posted by svenski

  5. Posted

     

    I'm getting ready to print one of the revised cartridge stands that Mr Robot has kindly updated but I wanted to try this first, and it came out perfect.

     

    I did randomly try and print a train... that didn't end well... so decided to do something smaller to get my confidence back.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    IMG_3480.thumb.JPG.e2a392705b28dc2e62231980baf64615.JPG

    • Like 3

  6. Posted

    On 2/6/2021 at 1:12 AM, Stephen said:

    Again - I ask.  Do you have more than one pair of jeans?  More than one pair of shoes?  More than one shirt?  Why would anybody do that.  What a stupid way of supporting clothing manufacturers.  Sure is strange to own more than one of something.

    I was going to formulate a reply but Stephen has done it so eloquently. 

    • Thanks 1

  9. Posted

    I ended up going with a Creality CR6-SE, the auto leveling is a dream.

     

    I started off with an Anycubic Mega S and that worked great at first but deteriorated rapidly, so crossing fingers with this one. The CR6-SE had a rough start but it looks like they fixed the issues that plagued the kickstarter launch models. 

  12. Posted

    Conrad have the keyboard connectors to in theory save you causing wear on the end of the keyboard ribbon - they work but don't seem to make a snug connection to the keyboard connector on the board - maybe I'm missing something.

     

    Apart from that I'm guessing a lot of folks in Europe would have used Conrad potentially.

     

     

  13. Posted

    Hi everyone,

     

    Just a heads up if you have ordered from Conrad Electronics and the card that you used is still valid.

     

    I noticed a pending transaction today on an Amex card that I hardly use - hasn't left the house in months. I then noticed a transaction from December. I've never used this card with the merchant that these 2 mystery transactions relate to. 

     

    So, I phoned said merchant and they were able to find the December transaction linked to a different account, and could then see that account was also behind the pending transaction from today. Really helpful, blocked the account, will stop the pending transaction, sent an email over straight away to confirm unauthorised use of my card. They wouldn't confirm name or address details for the account that my card was being used against, but confirmed that it wasn't me.

     

    So I phoned Amex. As I'm speaking to Amex I'm double checking statements to see if there was anything else, and to see where I'd used my card and where the leak could have come from. October - Conrad Electronics - this was the only thing that I could see where I'd used the card online. A quick search and lo and behold Conrad Electronics confirmed a data leak in November.

     

    The link below is in German and mentions IBANs and addresses being compromised but Conrad were saying that they didn't think that credit card info was affected.

     

    https://www.golem.de/news/elasticsearch-datenleak-bei-conrad-1911-145091.html

     

    It's too much of a coincidence so if you have used Conrad say in the last year then please check your statements, etc.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  14. Posted

    Thanks for the responses.

     

    It is a Tandon mech drive - the only thing I have yet to do is take it apart and open up the shielding which I will do shortly.

     

    I've set the drive as Drive 1 and have been running the diagnostics running via an SIO2USB, then unpowering that and turning the drive on. I'm not 100% sure about the belt, there is some noise but the drive appears to spin at a reasonable speed - doesn't seem to struggle.

     

    If opening up the shielding doesn't reveal anything then I'll look to swap the mechanisms to see what happens then.

  15. Posted

    I've set the zero sensor but it passes now in troubleshooting but continues to fail in the diagnostic. I'll have a dive into the shielding when I've got more time - you might be right I was thinking it could have a mod under there.

     

    There is a whining noise coming from the main capstan - the belt looks fine, not loose or buckled. 

     

    It continues to fail motor start, although does start the motor, and seems to be failing the stepper test although seems quite happy to move in the right direction when starting a burn-in , and it is also reporting correctly that the disk is not single density when trying to do a 10 min burn on an SD disk.

  16. Posted

    I've recently got hold of another Atari 1050 which externally was in a bit of a state but has cleaned up nicely.

     

    Internally it was surprisingly clean and a missing case screw suggests that it has been opened up before.

     

    The drive powers up fine but wouldn't load anything. I've cleaned the drive head and lubricated the drive rails and the head movement on turn on is fine. The drive continues to not boot but I noticed that the head assembly seems to sometimes take a step back past the sensor. I've run SALT and the drive is failing the motor start test, speed (too high) and track zero test. The stepping test works fine. The diagnostic is asking me to move the sensor backward which fits with my observation of the assembly movement when it "takes a step back". The speed diagnostic is reporting zero speed but the pot does not appear to have been touched as it still has the glue on.

     

    The motor is obviously working, drive is spinning and speed is obviously not zero. Would the track zero impact the motor start test. Why would SALT be reporting zero speed?

     

    Apart from that, I've reseated jumpers, checked against a good 1050 and can't see anything obviously wrong. The only thing I'm yet to do is take the shielding off.

     

     

     

     

  17. Posted

    Has anyone found a good source of rubber feet, or you may want to refer to them as stem bumpers.. for the 810? 

     

    My rough calculations suggest the stem is 1cm in diameter - I think I've seen one for 9.75mm which allowing for my rough calculations might suffice.

     

    If anyone has a good ebay or ali listing that would be appreciated - I know Bruce sells them but I'm looking for quite a few.

     

     

  19. Posted

    Bumping an old thread.

     

    I've got a CO60592 that appears dead, replaced the fuse in the plug but this hasn't changed anything. The unit seems to be getting slightly warm when plugged in but isn't sending any power to anything. Is there a fuse, in these does anyone know?

     

    Also, does anyone know a good source for a suitable PSU for UK that has enough oomph to power up both an 800 and an 810 or 1050. I'm struggling to find a source that has reliable dimensions for the jack (is it 5.5x2.1mm?)  . If anyone can point to a good ebay link or site - that would be appreciated. 

  20. Posted

    I think eBay prices have been high for a long time, but seem to have got even worse over the last 12 months.

     

    You can see that people will often ask "how much is this worth?" and the first response tends to be, more and more often, "check out eBay for an idea of value".

     

    There are still bargains but you have to be more patient and more tenacious.  I guess that pricing is being driven by a new generation that thinks that retro is cool, and by the original generation of enthusiasts having more disposable income and able to pay to get the setups that either they or their parents couldn't afford at the time.

     

    Times are certainly strange and more difficult for many, but lockdown seems to have driven prices up even more in my opinion - I guess people have more time to spend on their hobbies.

     

     

  21. Posted

    Yes there is a self-test switch on the back but that doesn't seem to make a difference. Looking at the manual for the Commodore equivalent it suggests a bad transformer, but as the thing is getting warm it could be something else. When I get a bit more time I'll try and open it up more. Hopefully it is a loose connection somewhere. 

  24. Posted

    Does anyone have experience repairing or troubleshooting an Atari 1029?

     

    The printer is cosmetically fine but is dead. I've checked the wiring in the plug and replaced the fuse, and also replaced the fuse in the printer with a new 1.6A even though it looked OK.

     

    No sign of life, no power light, motor housing doesn't seem to be getting warm.

     

    If it can't be resurrected then I'll probably sell it for spares as it has had little use.

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