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Everything posted by GadgetUK

  1. I am too quick lol - found it I think. https://didierm.pagesperso-orange.fr/ct60/index-e.htm
  2. Does anyone know where I can find ct60cont.prg for my CT60? I am guessing there may be other files or utils that came with that .prg too? I cannot find anything on the mirrors of the original CT60 website.
  3. Very sorry to hear this! My thoughts are with his family and friends ='(
  4. What about Cannon Fodder - does that use the same IC? It's for a mod I am doing on my channel (not involving damage to any original carts)
  5. As per the title - Which games use the S93C46? Could anyone list a few games that use that 3 wire EEPROM please?
  6. I've seen this caused by debris on the PCB connections under where the plunger goes. The one I just cleaned up on my channel was suffering from that behaviour a fair bit until I cleaned it up. (Video coming in a week or so - it's on Patreon already as early access though). The problem is after years of use you get tiny bits of the black conductive stuff just sat there on the part the rubber plunger joins up. So its super easy for a bit of conduction even when you aren't pressing the key. Typically you have a press the keys down all over until you work out which one it is, and then it stops. But I am sure that's what causes the "ghost" press on power up. My own ST had this issue too, but no longer suffers from it after cleaning. A word of warning about cleaning - you can find that some keys dont work AT ALL after wiping gently with IPA! But there's a solution to that too (again covered in my video that will go public in a week or two).
  7. What other changes were done to the main branch there do you know?
  8. I am not talking about a fork - I am talking about changes that were done to it prior to you doing your changes, that could be merged with your version - a single version. You could just compare between the source versions and spot the differences pretty easily. If you want I can PM you with a link?
  9. Just tried that version - great work, it's lacking some of LX NET fixes I think, lacks the sound fixes too I think. I can send you my old source if you want - may help you merge those fixes into this version. I vaguely remember fixing some bug related to the display and it stretching incorrectly too. ie. 1 row of pixels getting stretched or squashed due to the a bug in resizing somewhere.
  10. Rodland / New Zealand Story / Operation Wolf
  11. Yes, it will be a video =D The good news is the Skunk wasn't the issue - the Jaguar was! Hard to believe, it looked pristine and was sold to me as 100% working. But on inspection of the issue I can see someone had tinkered at that spot in the past! Unfortunately I had already left an eBay feedback - grrr!
  12. Spoke to Tursi - he's given me some great advice! I think I am going to BJL mod the Jag, build a parallel cable and see if reflashing the EEPROM will sort it. I will post an update as I make progress. Thanks to all, and Tursi especially =D
  13. Thanks, that might explain why the PC doesnt see anything - if the Jag is not booting from the cart at all. It's not dirty contacts, spent a good hour cleaning and recleaning the cart edge and the slot, and testing other carts - every other cart works perfectly, and the slot hasn't had much use at all. I wonder if the EEPROM needs reflashing as perhaps its lost the jag boot loader stuff or something?
  14. Hi, I was recently given a Skunk board and I think it is bricked / faulty but wanted to ask for advice. I plugged it into the Jag and powered it on - red screen of death. ie. Says Jaguar on a red screen, nothing more. Cleaned the contacts, re-tested - just the same. PCB looks fine. It was in a shell, so protected that way. I tried connecting up to the PC (as per the guides) and nothing detected by Windows when the Jag is powered on - as if something related to the USB control is borked too. Any suggestions? I see the thing was open sourced a while back, I saw main.jed file in there and considered reflashing the Xilinx IC, would that help? I also see a Cypress part on there - is that responsible for the USB comms, guessing that's probably the borked part?
  15. Thanks =D Yes, I had planned to change the engine somewhat and make it into a sort of RPG but never got around to it. Cabal type game was a learning excercise - I would re-do it from scratch if I decide to revisit it I think. I wasn't using segments in the cart at that stage and you really need to plan to use them from the start if you want lots of space. I did get quite far with Jack Attack, I might try and finish that before doing anything else.
  16. Sorry to bump an old thread, some might not be aware of this on the Lynx. I've re-done the share on the file, here's the link:- https://www.dropbox.com/s/1qrr1u6ysgl5l52/Alien 1.02.zip?dl=0 I might update it over the upcoming weeks whilst I have time. Hope everyone is well and staying isolated where possible!
  17. Could be bad RAM maybe, or a fault somewhere else.
  18. Ignore that muppet complaining about the PCB thickness - it's thinner, less chance of wear to the connector. Regards 300mA - LOL! I will bet the supply traces leading to the cart slot will carry a lot more than 300mA, and the very fact that a TONNE of testing has been done (proving everything is OK) means nothing to some people. Some people have nothing better to do than whine!
  19. Wow is all I can say - some great entries here! I love Lynx Quest in particular, but the other entries are sweet too!
  20. Please add me to the list, interested to check this out!
  21. Have you tried copying everything off the card to a PC, then reformat the card and copy everything back? It's no that unusual to get problems like that with the Everdrives from time to time.
  22. Have you tried cleaning the slots up? See my 6 slot video - I think I covered it in that vid. There's also a 4 slot and 2 slot video coming up where I will show the tecnique again there. Basically fold a piece of paper 4 times over, and coat the edge with IPA (as pure to 100% as you can get), or deoxit, and push and and out of the slot as you move it along.
  23. Yes, I thought that looked familiar! I did add your fix into v0.971 - https://www.dropbox.com/s/wkn27s28t79xiye/Handy0.971.zip?dl=0
  24. You might find replacement "original" screens on Best Electronics website in the US. Expensive shipping outside of the US though. The other solution is the "McWill" mod - there's a thread on this very forum (usually on the first page of threads) where you can order one - send McWill a pm. You can also send the Lynx to him for the upgrade (I think), at additional cost. EDIT: If you mean the plastic part of the screen (ie. you LCD screen is fine, the clear plastic screen cover isn't) - Best Electronics did also used to sell those too.
  25. Sounds like perhaps a fault now on the McWill PCB - if the regulator had died on it, that's not a good sign. I would ask McWill if you can send the mod back for him to check out - but you may have to pay for the repair if it needs a new chip. There's also a chance you have a wire connected incorrectly somewhere perhaps? Double check your wiring before sending the screen back to McWill I think.
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