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Everything posted by Rolo

  1. The datasheet of the 2636 writes on page 2: "PCK | input pin | Position Clock: Generated by the 2622 USG to synchronize the PVI's internal functions. (3.58 MHz, 227 pulses/line)." There is a PAL USG 2621 and a NTSC USG 2622 by Signetics. Datasheet: PAL: "The USG accepts a single 3.55MHz Input clock and generates various timing outputs including vertical, horizontal and composite blanking, composite sync and color burst flag. Several auxiliary clock outputs are also provided." NTSC: "The USG accepts a single 3.5796MHz Input clock and generates various timing outputs Including vertical, horizontal and composite blanking, composite sync and color burst flag. Several auxiliary clock outputs ara also provided." 8.867239 MHz (crystal) *2/5 = 3.546896 MHz (USG) There must be a clock divider, probably the strange PE1X-chip, of which I do not find any information. 3.546896 MHz / 4 = 0.886724 MHz (CPU) and 8.867239 MHz (crystal) / 2 = 4.4336195 MHz (European PAL color subcarrier)
  2. I checked the clock frequency of the 2650 processor: It's 887 kHz.
  3. There are only a few cartridges, which contain extra RAM inside the cartridge: CHESS 1 4 kBytes ROM + 1 kByte RAM CHESS 2 6 kBytes ROM + 1 kByte RAM DRAUGHTS 4 kBytes ROM + 1 kByte RAM BACKGAMMON 4 kBytes ROM + 1 kByte RAM Come-Frutas 4 kBytes ROM + 1 kByte RAM Hobby Module 2 kBytes ROM + 2 kBytes RAM
  4. Hi, Not so obscure, I think. Quite common, but it is true, not so much information available. I opened up my ACETRONIC MPU-1000 and took some photos. PAL-version: crystal 8.867 MHz, obviously divided. Concerning clock, I read the figure 0,887 MHz, which would be something like a quarter of the NTSC color burst (~3,58 MHz). Hmmm, PAL color burst is ~4,434 MHz, the crystal oscillates at twice this frequency. If we divide this by 4, we would end up at 1.108 MHz, which would seem plausible, too. Maximum Clock is 1.25 MHz. Maybe some measurement required. Does anybody know? Microprocessor Signetics 2650AN (40 pin plastic): RAM: There is no real RAM onboard the console, at all. The console is using 37 bytes of scratch pad memory of the PVI-chip (Signetics 2636).
  5. Yes sure, the port pins of port B are isolated from each other with the help of diodes to prevent shorts, when more than one switch is closed. Four diodes inside each controller.
  6. Unfortunately it's completely non-standard. A classic Atari joystick will not work. I know, the decision to take a DSUB-9pin connector is misleading and might be no clever choice. 🤪 I was thinking of taking a DIN connector, but I do not like soldering those and I did not have DIN-connectors in the drawer. A SCV joystick uses four direction switches and two buttons, communicating via 5 wires with the board. Or more exactly, since two lines are in common (PortA0 and PortA1), 8 wires are used for two sticks (8 direction switches and 4 buttons). Obviously this doesn't work straight forward, but needs some scanning, like a keyboard matrix. Without having looked at real signals with a scope, the schematics show, that: Port is when on Pin connected pressed controller to ------------------------------------------ PA0 PB0 left A PA0 PB1 up A PA0 PB2 fire1 A PA0 PB3 left B PA0 PB4 right B PA0 PB5 fire2 B PA1 PB0 down A PA1 PB1 right A PA1 PB2 fire2 A PA1 PB3 down B PA1 PB4 up B PA1 PB5 fire1 B The remaining port-pins of Port A and B are used for scanning the 12 buttons of the keypad of the console.
  7. Detachable Joysticks for the EPOCH SUPER CASSETTE VISION I just modded my SCV. The quality of the SCV-joysticks is questionable, which kills much of the fun of the small game library. First step for an improvement is to make the original joysticks detachable. This is what I'll show now: After disassembling the console, cutouts for the two sockets must be made. I chose a convenient position in the bay. It turned out, that space is very limited on the right side. Next time, I'd probably try a different position, like on the backside of the console, behind the Cassette port. I'm still using the original five pole joystick cables, which I cut off. For future use I added a power supply (VCD, GND). Power supply needed:after desoldering a cap at the cartridge connector, I soldered in a connector to draw the power from and put the cap on the backside of the board.. Now, the art of putting the case together again ... Oh no! Too narrow at the keyboard. I had to make a little notch at the rim of the keyboard for the back-part of the DSUB-connector. Just a little bit, since there is a line running at the rim of the pcb! The pcb is made of some very uncomfortable, aggressive material. Very dusty when mechanically working on it. You notice it immediately in the mouth and throat. Better do it outside the house! There is not much space for the cables and putting it all together is kind of complicated. It's probably better to use flat cables or at least strip off the grey isolation of the original cables! After a while of playing around and trying different approaches, I finally managed to put the two shells together. 👍 A little test in the end. Yes, it is working ... - Rolo 👾
  8. @Gr8dane: No, no, just relax. This was just a little spoiler. I'm not ready, yet. If you like, I put your name on my list. 👍 @OldSlabSides: On the list. 👍
  9. Hi Oliver, I just noticed your post. Thanks for your inquiry. Yes, 👍 I'm still making the Multi-Cartridges and the adapters for the various systems. It might take some time, since I'm soldering everything by my own and I'm just doing very little quantities, which means, I have to re-order and wait for components regularly. So, I have something in stock and if not I'll start another batch. For ordering and conversation, we better switch to PM, to not flood the threat. Kind regards, Rolo
  10. I built one a couple of years ago. There really is nothing to it. Didn't I post it back then?😳 Maybe I find some photos. No, just this one: I just built, what is shown at: https://www.playvectrex.com/vectech/mvlp/MVLPv10_200DPI.pdf It's working perfectly. Compare with the schematic of an ATARI Light Pen: https://www.atariarchives.org/ecp/chapter_6.php It's more or less the same. The ATARI-device is activated by an additional pushbutton. Cable connection: description pin Vectrex pin Atari GND 8 8 +5VDC 7 7 OUTPUT 4 6 I made a little switch box, containing a button and a switch, leading the output to pin 4 or pin 6. I can use the light pen together with both devices. I just have a hand drawn sheet, but it is so simple, that it surely will do: -Rolo
  11. This is my latest creation. Finally a friend of mine finished a wooden case, that I designed for a joystick kit, some time ago. I wanted to make a joystick, which can be played by left handed as well as by right handed. So what can be done? Well, a symmetric design seems to be a solution. Look at the case. The cover can be removed simply by pulling, since it is held in place by magnets: The finished joystick, button 1 to button 4 from top to bottom. Buttons 3 and 4 being independently capable of auto-firing with an adjustable frequency. Under the ( wood-)hood, there is my last item of joystick kit (version 2) as shown in the postings above. Space for the cables is quite limited. A few millimeters more, would have been a good idea, but I wanted the joystick to be compact. The flat part of the case is as big as an original VECTREX joystick. Note the little magnets. It can be played like this or like that. I don't know yet which one is better for me. In real life I'm a 100 percent right handed, but with the joystick it's kind of a tie. I probably have to go on playing. 😆👍 👾🛸 I wonder, if should paint the case or leave the wooden design as it is. Wood probably is not the best material for the control part of the panel. Maybe a 3D printed plastic part or a numerically drilled and cut pcb-panel, would be easier, faster and more exact to fabricate. Best regards, Rolo
  12. Just in case somebody else might be interested. That's SID THE SPELLBINDER: Plus some documentation about the serial rom chip, holding the extra "sounds": GI SPR128 serial rom.pdf Have fun!
  13. Well, thanks for clarifying. So, no real shortage, just a matter of having not enough time to make them. Sounds familiar. Good to know, that the project is going on. 👍
  14. Hi Stwert, It has been quite some time... I just have my tiny phone with me. I‘ll come back soon, when I have a screen and a keyboard. Best regards, Rolo PS: But, no Intellivision cartridges are technologically too different, from the console standard, served by my Multi-cartridge. It would be easier, to make a completely new design, than to make an adapter. I wonder, why are all of those Intellivision Multi-cartridges so short-lived? Is there some legal stuff going on in the background?
  15. Hi wilco2009, it‘s well documented, as far as I remember. I found schematics and a description in the internet. And I took photos. I’m quite sure, I have stored those documents on my PC. I‘m not at home at the moment, but I will have a look, when I‘m back. I‘ll tell you. Best regards, Rolo
  16. Time for this summer to come to an end. 😁 As long as the sun🌞 is shining, I really can't go back to my desk 🖥️ and make things. I have a lot of homework to do on various projects. In the meantime, I got the case I "ordered". Yes! 👍 I'll show you pictures, as soon as I've assembled and finished the final item of the last batch, that I have.
  17. Thanks a lot! 👍 Well, I haven't heard anything concerning the joystick kit for years. It really was over. And thanks for sharing. I like to see, which ideas come up and how people like their controller to be. Could be a good thing to know, for a potential redesign. Talking about shipping, I hope that things eventually will get back to normal and DHL hopefully will offer small, cheap parcel transportation again, like they used to do.
  18. ... started a list ... 👍
  19. Hi Tech-Chap, Why would I look down on you? It is a valid question. It would be possible to make such an adapter. I've never made one though, because there already are many very good multi-cart systems out there for all the major systems, like Atari-8-bit or Commodore. For those platforms, I'm using ATARIMAX and ULTIMATE myself. I did not see any reason, to add another one. I sticked to the "underdogs", where it is not always so easy to find a solution. So, sorry, no Atari-adapter. Best regards, Rolo
  20. Hi guys, I haven't been here for a loooooong time! Well, I see, some of you still are working on the kit.👍 By the way, I myself am still waiting for a specially designed wooden case a friend promised to manufacture for me.... Maybe I should ask again. "Sales" really were going down, new projects were being announced and I did not see any future need for the kit. This may have changed? Well, if there is demand for a new batch, I could go for another one. Not immediately, but in the next few months or so. I do not have parts anymore, so I'd need to order buttons, printed levers, cables, pcbs, small parts, connectors, analog controllers, switches ... Probably, I'd have to adapt the pcbs, because normally I don't get all parts anymore. Transportation is a problem at the moment! For example, I do not have an affordable way to ship to the US anymore! I have problems with a delivery to Australia, too. This disease really changed a few things! What do you think? Shall I start a new waiting list for a batch of kits? Sorry for not responding such a long time. Best regards, Roland
  21. Hi Technical-Chap, All right. I switch to PM ok? Best regards, Rolo
  22. project update: Waiting list completed: some ordered, some cancelled and some did not respond anymore. - Roland
  23. project update: Working through the waiting list. Almost done! Best regards, Roland
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