Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Emehr

  1. As Mac user w/o PC emulation, I rolled my own playfield editor tool for Mac users that should work all the way back to System 7.5 (hey, I had nothing better to do today ). It doesn't read picture files, rather it's a graphical editor. Imagine drawing right on the Stella window (at double resolution) complete with the looong 8x1 playfield pixels, eight colors to choose from, height-adjustable pen, and the ability to save to a DASM formatted text file (customizable). It works. All I need to do is teach it how to read the files it creates and make a Read Me for it (not to mention extensive testing/debugging). I'll post it here when I have more than 80% confidence in it. Anyway, on to the lesson at hand... Thanks Thomas, I'll try that next. As I understand the interleaved version (from viewing your Mona Lisa fade (nice work BTW!) and from reading your chronocolour.asm file posted to [stella] (thanks, Google!)), instead of diplaying... frame 0: all Red frame 1: all Green frame 2: all Blue ...you're changing the color each scanline. Thus... frame 0: RGBRGBRGB... frame 1: GBRGBRGBR... frame 2: BRGBRGBRG... Is that correct? I'd love to see it in action on a television set. Jason Rein
  2. I just found out that my red, green, and blue values were incorrect for displaying RGBCMY and white. The new values I use are: RGBTable .byte $4E ;Red .byte $CE ;Green .byte $8E ;Blue My updated binary: http://home.earthlink.net/~jjrein/stella/color.bin ...and the source... http://home.earthlink.net/~jjrein/stella/color.asm http://home.earthlink.net/~jjrein/stella/P...ayfieldData.asm Whee! Jason
  3. I don't know but if anybody has a solution I'd love to hear it. I have the same problem with my spare Lynx II. It makes the token "pop" sound when you turn it on and I can see that the screen's light is on but there's no picture or sound and the brightness control doesn't affect the screen at all. If you peruse the Lynx forum you'll find that Lynx II issues come up frequently. Unfortunately, I've not come across a solution to this problem. I'm half tempted to swap components between my working Lynx II and the non-working one just to troubleshoot but I'm afraid of frying my one good Lynx! I'm so close to some 2 player Warbirds action...so far away... Jason
  4. I'm unable to post my .bin to the forum (it was created on a Mac and the forum software doesn't accept it) so I put it in my webspace here: http://home.earthlink.net/~jjrein/stella/color.bin Press and hold the left fire button to change the background color to white. EDIT: I removed this "feature" in the current bin These are the colors I am using for red, green, and blue... RGBTable .byte $40 ;Red .byte $C0 ;Green .byte $80 ;Blue And here are my observations: I already knew that combinations of the 3 component colors (red, green, and blue) yielded 8 colors, but what are the other 8 colors? My first guess would be: red, green, blue, cyan, magenta, yellow, black, and white. Alas, upon writing this little test program I found out that I was either wrong or my color perception is off-whack because I'm running this on an emulator and not on a real television (I'm guessing the latter). Anyway, the main colors I see are... red green blue orange (red+green) cyan (green+blue) violet (red+blue) My instincts tell me that a mixture of red+green+blue should be white. On a black background it looks more like a purplish-grey. Against white it looks more black. I also observed that there is less flicker when drawn against a black background, and that the colors are richer (i.e. less washed out than on a white background). I'm guessing that this method is meant to be drawn with the background color set to black and that to get a black pixel, one simply does not draw a playfield pixel for all three phases of red, green, and blue. I'm also guessing that for optimal color pleasure, one should view this on a real television! So, does anybody have a Cuttle Cart or a Supercharger that they want to sell for less than the cost of a Cuttle II? Having fun with this, Jason Rein
  5. Boffo Bo: original 2600 stick NES (as uncomfortable as they look, I could play on this for hours) Genesis (3 or 6 button, they're both great) Sega Arcade Power Stick (excellent for 2600 and 7800 usage, don't play Ms.Pac without one!) Lynx II (does this count? ) SuperNES (really nice, I almost forget I'm holding it after a while) GameCube (I like the design, although as stated in a recent post the 'Z' button is a little hard to find) Floppo Poo: 7800 Pro-Line the D-pad on the PlayStation controller (horrible for Street Fighter-like movements) those little nubbins on the back of the NES Max that leave imprints on your fingers Jason
  6. Regarding the label: How about turning the bubbles into little fish? And making fewer of them? Perhaps by making single color mini-fish (dark blue, slightly darker than the background) you can fill in the "white space" yet not detract from the title. Jason (who wishes he had 2 Bens burning a hole in his pocket)
  7. I love the older 2D Castlevanias. I, III, IV, and Bloodlines are probably my favorites. It took me a while to get into Symphony of the Night (I was initially turned off by the horrible, over-the-top voice work) but I eventually warmed up to it. Having said that, I think going 3D is worth another try (it worked for Metroid!). I'm personally growing weary of the latest CV entries and would like to see some variation. I bought and beat Harmony of Dissonance and that game did absolutely nothing for me. It felt like a rehash of Symphony only the music was horrible (IMO), the backtracking was tedious, and the level design was yawn-inspiring (all in MHO, YMMV). And the ending induced some serious deja-vu. It'll be interesting to see how the 3D version plays out. I just wish they'd make a GameCube version! Jason
  8. Excellent diagram. Now I have something to compare to my sketches! Keep up the great work, Andrew. I'm lovin' this tutorial and have been following it closely. Right now I have an animated sprite that can run around the screen. When he gets above the "horizon" his sprite goes into jump mode, although you can still move him around like he were walking...sort of a Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon thing. Thanks! Jason Rein
  9. I had the same problem with MacMESS until I found a thread somewhere here on AtariAge that addressed it. In the "Roms" folder in "MacMESS61" (or whatever), create a folder named "a7800". In this folder, stick your '7800.rom' file and whatever game roms you want. Hope that makes sense. - Jason
  10. Concerning the VBLANK register... The two lines... LDA #%01000010 STA VBLANK ...set bit 6 and bit 1 of the VBLANK register. For more on the latches in question... Hope that helps. -Jason
  11. Do you mean encase the whole thing in resin? That might actually be a good idea. I mean, once you buld it, there'd be no need to take it apart again. Actually, I think if I build another one I'll probably just get a 9 pin extension cable (like cloudmann mentioned), splice the adapter components near the female end, and shroud it in a hard plastic section of tube such as PVC. - Jason
  12. Here's the link to the 2600 FAQ (note to FAQ moderator: this should also be in the 7800 FAQ): http://www.atariage.com/2600/faq/index.htm...temID=2600#sega I made a converter a year or two ago from parts found at Radio Suck, er Shack. The component list couldn't be much simpler: 4 resistors and 2 transistors. I crammed the components so overall it's about the size of a matchbox. I still need to make a case for it (at one point I actually _did_ use a matchbox ). Haven't used a 7800 controller since (and my hands thank me for it). Love that Sega Arcade Power Stick! - Jason
  13. I have a spare Lynx II that behaves exactly the same way: turn it on and the speaker "pops" and the backlight comes on but there are no sounds and the screen is black. Also, the contrast dial doesn't affect the screen. I wonder if this is a common problem? I get this behavior whether I power it with batteries or through the DC plug. Interestingly, if the DC plug gets jiggled, the Lynx will shut off, indicating a not-so-perfect connection. When I bought the Lynx there were corroded batteries in it. I took the Lynx apart and wiped away what corrosion I could. A Google search isn't much help as there doesn't seem to be much info on repairing Lynx's. I guess one could swap components from a working Lynx to troubleshoot. I haven't tried this because I'm afraid of frying my one good Lynx. Discarding the non-working Lynx is not what I want to do, especially if there is an easy fix! Multi-player Warbirds so close...yet so far away.
  14. Here's what I did before I bought a Lynx case...(this is my first post to the forums, BTW!) Take a standard CD jewel case and gut it (including the middle piece of plastic that holds the CD). Next, break off the four tabs that hold the insert. It takes some arranging but if you "yin/yang" the cards you can squeeze 8 games into one CD case.
  • Create New...