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About bugbiter

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    Stuttgart, Germany
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    Got my VCS in 1982. Played the Pac Man cartridge that came with it for 6 months before I found someone to borrow me Space Invaders.. That was some awesome experience!
    Then 600XL+1010 recorder in April 1984, 800XL+1050 in 1986. My 800XL died around 1990.. Got me a 130XE with buggy GTIA (Meh..)
    1994 PC, soon found out about Emulators, managed to copy my old Floppies to the pc emulation by connecting 2 output lines of the Atari joystick port to the PC joystick (bitrate of the Turbo basic interface 'driver' was ca. 10 Baud :-)
    Bought 2 800s from Eb*y in 2007, left them to age a little more in the basement for another 5 years thinking they are broken anyway given the dirt and smell..
    Then one day discovered they are both in perfect working condition, put all my love in restoration and since then I am hooked again.

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  1. cool! I never knew that! Thanks 🙂 .. I mean the ctrl-F8 trick described in post #2324..
  2. Is there a way in Altirra to disable / enable PM display? I would like to see where Rasta pictures use the PM bits..
  3. I guess that's about the same as the ones that had been put on the power board 40 years ago 🙂 Anyway, I now have a blue (!) power- on light and a faint orange glow to it when the HDD is accessed. That's fine for me!
  4. Orange LED is in and flashing almost brightly enough...
  5. At the moment I'm going for an orange one which seems to be the brightest one I got and is NOT red 🙂 I'll put in a higher resistor R201 (660 ohm instead 330) to dim down the now super bright red power led..
  6. I wish it were like that - all the LEDs I have here are either so weak you barely see it flash (1,8 Vf) or they don't light up at all (3,0 Vf) with the incognito board I guess I'll go looking specifically for LEDs with the lowest forward voltage I can find. (most likely red ones)
  7. I found that the old red LEDs have a forward voltage of 1.6 volts - the new ones I got have more (1,8 or 3,0). Does the incognito really work with that low voltage? Or is there a series resistor on the incognito board already that could be removed/bypassed? It's a bit of a bummer really, that the only solution would be to use the low voltage LEDs, which are quite dark of course.... Flashjazzcat - where are you? Which LED did you use?
  8. Hi, I just tried to replace the default LEDs of the 800 with new and brighter ones. I wanted to have a red one as the power-on light and a green one for the CF card activity, so that when busy, my newly made glass button on the Atari would give yellow when green and red are on. When the default LEDs were still in place the busy light on the left LED was going ok, but of course it was not very noticeable. Well, I have only rudimentary electronic knowledge so I thought any LED would do... After resoldering the red one on the right the result is great - really bright power-on light! Now the problem - The green one (left) does not blink at all when the internal SMD LED on the incognito board is flashing. Polarity is correct and soldering is also ok. I tested it by applying voltage to the led lines to the connector I made between the power board and the incognito. It might be that the threshold voltage of the LED is too high and the voltage from the incognito is too low. However, it is very difficult to measure the voltage of the LED line with a multimeter when there are only short impulses. I used two types of green LED. At first I tried a VF 3.0 - 3.2V one and then VF 1.8-2.0V after that. Both did not work in the left place on the board. Does anybody know what is the voltage on the incognito busy line, so I can choose the right type of LED? Or is there something else I missed?
  9. Here's a loader for Turbo Basic that I did in the 80s. IIRC I took the descrabling routine out of the original Basic code of Strip poker.. STRIPLAD.rar
  10. The filename on the source says graphics.a65 is that a known format? I guess it isn't the A65 Atari assembler.. But surely it should be possible for us to translate that Lucasfilm code into a usable assembler format??
  11. Boy, I would read that through all the way!
  12. Nice! If I only knew how to solve this 'combing' problem...
  13. with the ballblazer grid each tile is two pixels wider each line as you go down. That's why it wraps (with a colour flip) when the bottom line has moved for the amount of #c_lines*2 pixels which is the tile width at the bottom line. c_lines itself is the number of lines counted from the imaginary central point [Fluchtpunkt] to the bottom. We actually see less lines to achieve the effect of the over-the-horizon-curve. 'lines' is the number of visible lines on the screen. If both were the same the top line would be in the central point and would not move at all, the tiles woild be infinitely small in width and the diagonals in the checkerboard geometry would look very curved near the horizon. The halving of the horizontal border's Y positions is just an approximation of the correct function and that curved error is already there if you look closely... Try to count the visible playfield lines in Dimension X and set Lines to that value. Then look if there is a central point above the first playfield line (where would the line be that has tiles which would be zero pixels wide) and take that for c_lines. Then the field should move right. For the wrapping just look at how wide the tiles are at the bottom and wrap with that number of pixels. Just put a fixed value instead of #c_lines*2 for the wrapping routines. I hope that helps a bit.
  14. hmm what could that be? NES? I coded the gfx data by hand :-) the lines are different in length, the topmost needs only to be about 45 bytes as it doesn't move much, the bottom line must be about 90.. not sure. yeah, dimensionx could look better!
  15. Yessss!! Thank you! What platform?
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