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jsoper

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About jsoper

  • Rank
    Stargunner

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  • Location
    San Jose Ca
  • Interests
    video games, hiking
  1. I'd mimic a masterplay circuit if it was me. Lift R21 and R22, then run the two axis signals to the commons of a DPDT switch. One side of switch goes back to resistors so trackball works as usual. Other side goes to analog outputs of CD4052 chips. They slap in 10k, 250k, or 500k ohms between axis and ClearLine based on 2600 stick direction signals on the 4052 digital inputs. Firebuttons can be put in parallel between joystick and trackball. Use genesis controllers when you want the second fire button. If you're feeling really crazy, also add 2600 paddle support for epic Kaboom and Breakout games. You need to connect to the other side of the paddle pot.
  2. So I bought one about a year ago that was described as untested, and it didn't work (just posted in HARDWARE). Got the impression that most "untested" Studio IIs on Ebay are known bad, and just slosh around in multiple overpriced auctions. A couple weeks ago, I spotted one where the seller had lots of auctions, but no other video game hardware, so I hoped for an estate sale and bid. Got it for $53, which I thought was a good deal, even if no games. Opened the box up and frowned when I saw a sliced up warranty sticker (meaning it had been opened at least once). Tried two LED TVs, no luck. Then transferred over my composite mod board from the bad console, tried on a 1702 monitor, and hallelujah an actual image (below). What a ride. Tapped out the audio, so I could turn it down because it quickly gets annoying. Too lazy to install rca jacks, so just ran a cable out the ch2-3 slot. Left the 18ft cable and switch box attached, it's just a switched power line now. BTW, this system is primitive beyond words, I'll be playing it out of pity. Still need to repair a broken channel-f and mod an astrocade for s-video sometime. Stressed about each.
  3. Hey All, I now have one working Studio II and one broken one. Long shot, but does anyone know the root cause of the garbled screen (image attached)? Pushing reset, other buttons, and trying with and without cartridge does not help. No startup sound, but that could be separate. Things I've tried: New power supply connected directly to regulator, so not a switch box issue. Modded for composite out, so not a modulator issue 5V rail and 1.78Mhz clock line OK. No broken traces seen. Some things I haven't tried: Recapping Replacing all off-the-shelf chips Reflowing solder on custom chips Reseating ribbon cables But don't want to spend time on these if someone knows better. It looks like a bad rom or CPU chip to me.
  4. Oh it was, but soldering was my passion back then. Now with kids, I can barely get out of bed in the morning. Seriously, it looks great. Congratulations.
  5. Complementary. These consoles are rude and don't compliment anyone. Heck, they even call some Berzerk players "chicken"
  6. Probably too late, but does this help? deathskull via wayback
  7. I'm not sure the connector is the right size. You can use a 5200, jaguar, or TG-16 supply if you have one around: wayback link
  8. I published an adapter circuit a few years ago you might enjoy reading about: adapter
  9. I got one, 9V DC 1000ma (a higher current rating is fine). Inner conductor negative, outer positive.
  10. PSX Spyro Year of the Dragon, Sgt Byrd was a playable character.
  11. I'm also in Santa Clara with a Sony HS-20 projector if you want to try. It only takes hdmi and dvi though.
  12. A mint gameboy SP was too much trouble for him to take and not worth the trouble of selling?
  13. My fav: Tomb Raider II. Lara's about to drop her outfit and get in the bath then she looks at the camera and asks "Haven't you seen ENOUGH?" and shoots the player. Worst ending: 2600 Chess. You checkmate the system, it buzzes, but then you can take the king and keep playing. Silly game doesn't even know it's over.
  14. jsoper

    Digikey

    Digikey can be a little pricy but it fits since they're located in Thief River Falls
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