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jsoper

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Posts posted by jsoper

  2. Posted

    I'd mimic a masterplay circuit if it was me.

     

    Lift R21 and R22, then run the two axis signals to the commons of a DPDT switch.  One side of switch goes back to resistors so trackball works as usual.

     

    Other side goes to analog outputs of CD4052 chips.  They slap in 10k, 250k, or 500k ohms between axis and ClearLine based on 2600 stick direction signals on the 4052 digital inputs.  

     

    Firebuttons can be put in parallel between joystick and trackball.  Use genesis controllers when you want the second fire button. 

     

    If you're feeling really crazy, also add 2600 paddle support for epic Kaboom and Breakout games.  You need to connect to the other side of the paddle pot.

  3. Posted · Edited by jsoper

    So I bought one about a year ago that was described as untested, and it didn't work (just posted in HARDWARE).  Got the impression that most "untested" Studio IIs on Ebay are known bad, and just slosh around in multiple overpriced auctions.  A couple weeks ago, I spotted one where the seller had lots of auctions, but no other video game hardware, so I hoped for an estate sale and bid.  

     

    Got it for $53, which I thought was a good deal, even if no games.  Opened the box up and frowned when I saw a sliced up warranty sticker (meaning it had been opened at least once). Tried two LED TVs, no luck.  Then transferred over my composite mod board from the bad console, tried on a 1702 monitor, and hallelujah an actual image (below).  What a ride.  

     

    Tapped out the audio, so I could turn it down because it quickly gets annoying.  Too lazy to install rca jacks, so just ran a cable out the ch2-3 slot.   Left the 18ft cable and switch box attached, it's just a switched power line now.  BTW, this system is primitive beyond words, I'll be playing it out of pity.

     

    Still need to repair a broken channel-f and mod an astrocade for s-video sometime.  Stressed about each.

     

        

    working_studio2.jpg

    • Like 2

  4. Posted · Edited by jsoper

    Hey All,

      I now have one working Studio II and one broken one.  Long shot, but does anyone know the root cause of the garbled screen (image attached)?

    Pushing reset, other buttons, and trying with and without cartridge does not help.  No startup sound, but that could be separate.

     

    Things I've tried:

    New power supply connected directly to regulator, so not a switch box issue.

    Modded for composite out, so not a modulator issue

    5V rail and 1.78Mhz clock line OK.  

    No broken traces seen.

     

    Some things I haven't tried:

    Recapping

    Replacing all off-the-shelf chips

    Reflowing solder on custom chips

    Reseating ribbon cables

     

    But don't want to spend time on these if someone knows better.  It looks like a bad rom or CPU chip to me.

     

    broken_studio2.jpg

  6. Posted

    Likewise both the 5200 and 7800 were placed as high end complimentary consoles to the 2600, rather than direct replacements.

    Complementary. These consoles are rude and don't compliment anyone. Heck, they even call some Berzerk players "chicken" ;)

    • Like 1

  9. Posted

    I gave up on the adapter in frustration, and decided to go back to basics. And the result was, I now have a Genesis controller that works with the CV using two buttons. And the process wasn't that difficult at all!

    I published an adapter circuit a few years ago you might enjoy reading about:

    adapter

  10. Posted

    Can anyone fill me in on the power and polarity requirements for the Interact Concept 4 Racing Wheel for DC? Maybe an old Genesis or NES adapter would do, but I don't want to risk cooking the internals with the wrong polarity. Thanks.

    I got one, 9V DC 1000ma (a higher current rating is fine). Inner conductor negative, outer positive.

  17. Posted

    It's my experience that jobs suck just as much as school. I get to write code and solder which I like, but right now my boss is pushing me finish a stupid ISO spec. He told me to keep it short, then bounced back the first draft for not enough detail, I hate that friggin document.

     

    Another time I was at a friend's house party who got a physics doctorate from Stanford, and was still working there. Way smarter than me. Heard him and his colleagues talk about what a drudge writing research grant proposals were.

     

    Even handymen and contractors have to write up job quotes they usually don't get called back on.

  25. Posted · Edited by jsoper

    And for the Coleco Vision portable I'm working on, this mod will for sure be employed since, along with substitution of a 9918 chip for the 9928, I'll be able to eschew the need for any +12v power supply altogether.

    I thought of doing this a few years ago, even picked up a beater 99/4a as a 9918 donor, but got too busy with real life. You can probably simplify things by dropping anything needed for the 2600 module. Also, by redoing the controller schematic, maybe by simply switching to schottky diodes, you might be able to drop the -5v supply as well. And most all chips except the sound one should have a CMOS version.

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