Sowden

Hey ho guys. So I bought two controller extension cables that I was going to use for a Blueretro project. The project turned out being more than what I can personally do, so I am looking into other ways of making it happen. But I basically have two extension cables that have no purpose. They have been tested and they both fully work. All I ask is to cover the cost of shipping and their yours. Hit me up in my DMs if your interested. Thanks guys.

Hey there. I own a OSSC and I have to say it is the best option to use for a HDMI solution. I have a SCART cable that works great with low and med res. You can get right up to the screen and see little to no noise or distortion. Its a strait plug and play and the LCD screen tells you the signal its receiving. I have heard that the Framemister works great with it too, but this is the next step down as far as price goes, and it is so worth it. Best solution in my book, highly recommended.

Are the official updates to the firmware going to stop? Other than the fact that I'm worried about Jookie, that thought is in the back of my mind.

Yup sure enough, thats my SIO device. Its a bit crazy seeing my device in a video from half way around the world. Anywho, yeah I just have real bad luck with devices with bad OTG support. Its weird because I run apps that says I have it and I can run mouses on it and stuff like that. But I guess it falls short of running old Atari hardware. Guess the phones are old and out of date For the record I am running a Samsung Galaxy S5 and a Motorola G 2nd gen.

Alright, a bit of added questions. I tested this last night and I got my wireless mouse on my phone that didn't work. I didn't try my other phone, but I have had some other OTG work in the past. Are you talking about the FTDI EEPROM Programming Utility talked about at the bottom of this page? If I go through this process, how will it work any differently? I will loose my 10502PC ability? How does that work? I have a older version, version 2.0 if I remember correctly. It has two screws where I can open it, should I add a diode? I am sending it off to greblus as he has offered to look at it for me, but if that doesn't work then I guess I'll try this stuff.

Hey man, long time no talk. I'll send a PM.

Plus does APE interact or work with Aspeqt? Would the device from Atarimax work with Aspeqt on my phone?

Yeah I have about two or three USB OTG cables. So I have switched them up to try to solve the problem. I have a Samsung Galaxy S5 and a Motorola Moto E 2nd Gen (4G-LTE) that both have USB OTG support. I have a older apk build from some years ago that I keep because it kind of works with it. It reads it and sends information, but it is very figity. I have worked with the author of the app and he was kind of stumped on why it wouldn't work. And I have seen some of the items on AtariMax, but I hear different things about support and responses to customers. Plus those devices are kind of exposed. Rays device was nice because it was a plug-in-play. Has anyone tried lotharek SIO device?

Hey guys. I have had a SIO2PC/10502PC from Ray and it works great on my PC. But I want it to operate on my Android using the Aspeqt app on my phone. I have now gone through two phones where it just doesn't seem to work, and I am wondering now if its not something with Rays device. So where would you guys suggest that I get another one from? Thanks.

Wow, I didn't even know that you could put any ink into the printers now days. I have to look in my closet (man, when I get to it) to see what I actually have in there. But hey, I think I have a 9 Pin Star in the bundle too. What exactly does that do?

Also, if your into hard/soft modding, a Gamecube emulator can play any sega system (Gen, CD, 32X) that you want really well. You get a Gamecube to Genesis controller adapter, and you have a Sega CD everdrive, essentially.

Hey guys. So I bought a Commodore 128 bundle because it came with a lot of original boxed games. I have a A800XL and 1040STF with all of these copied (pirated) games, but no original boxes to go with it. I haven't had a chance to dive into it yet, but I also got a printer in the bundle. I am wondering if its worth keeping it. I'm not sure how tough it is to get it working, and if it is even worth it. Anyone on here with experience knows how to get it working and what good it is to have it? I don't see a lot of uses, but I am also wondering if its going for any cash. Just being a total n00b, anyone here has any words to help me out? Thanks guys.

Alright guys, these items have been sold. Thanks a bunch!

Hey how guys. I have two monochrome monitors that needs a good home. It only displays in high resolution for Atari ST/F/M/E and I think it should work with Megas and Falcons too. It works best with using word document programs or working with the ever popular Cubase. The first one is pictured in the cardboard colored box works great. The serial number matches what's labeled on the box. That is going for $37 plus shipping. The second one in the white box works well, but the screen flickers while you are turning some of the knobs. But its steady once things are set. That one is going for $27 plus shipping. If you have any more questions or want pictures, send me a PM. Thanks guys.

Hey guys. I have these two floppy disk containers that need a good home. The first is medium sized but it can hold quite a lot of disks. The other is hand held sized and is great when you are on the go. PM me if your interested and they are yours for the low price of shipping. Thanks.

So it works right out of the box! Thats great man. Good to know, for if I ever have $400 to throw at something.

Hey ho guys. We have had the discussion of modding a SCART to HDMI box to get the ST to display on modern TVs. But has anyone here ever tried it with the Framemister? Do you think it might have to be modded to have it work the same way? I don't know about you guys, but the thing is too damned expensive for me to open it up and start messing around with it. What do you guys think?

While we're on the subject of monitors, if anyone is in Texas, mainly around the DFW area, I have two SM-124 hi-res, monochrome monitors that I am looking to give to a ST enthusiest. I know that one of them is in its original box, so I might ask for about 20 bucks for it. The other one might not have it, so all it will cost is just your gas money :-) PM me if anyone's interested.

I opened up my machine and checked under the floppy. Found that I had the C025913-38 labeled chip. Hooray... Thanks for the link above, I'll investigate if it becomes a problem.

Alright so I sat down with it last night and did some messing around with the resolutions. I was running it at full 1080p and I found that my ASUS monitor wouldn't let me use the 4:3 option. So I played with it and found the 1280x1024@60Hz resolution setting. I played some games for close to an hour and it didn't get to the burning state. It got a little hot but it stayed there and didn't raise in temperature. I guess the 5V does odd things if you have it on with higher resolutions. And my monitor wouldn't give me a 4:3 box with 720p or 1080p resolutions. So my image looks better boxed than stretched and the box stays coolish. This works great for me now Thanks guys, later.

Just as the post asks. How do I identify the two? And what's the deal between the two? Will one die before the other? A little help for someone who knows nothing about it. Thanks in advance, later.

Yeah I could have tried to take pin 16 out of the board, but I think its just easier to have your scart cable made where pin 16 is totally disconnected. I don't know how quick it gets hot, but its not long. I am going to open it up this weekend and take a look at it. I'll let you know because I'm interested in what gets hot.

Yes, it does work with Medium resolution, but not Hi res. I only do gaming on my ST so I really have nothing to test it with. But here is a photo of the desktop with Med res, and it all looks good.

Hey guys. Alright, so as promised I am going to make a long post so that the instructions are clear. That way no one has to go through two pages worth of information and hopefully make it simpler for everyone. But yes the process that rustynutt posted worked, and the input from retrobits perfected it! So heres what I did, I started off by ordering the scart to HDMI box off of amazon here. I then turned to electronika4you on ebay to buy a Atari ST Scart Cable with sound, I messaged the guys there and sent them the scart map out on post 31 here. With this mod a couple of resistors have been added to the wires and the 16th pin has been disconnected, which is important. They only charged me a couple of extra bucks for modding it, and they sent it to me with a print out of the post, just so that they confirmed it was modded as instructed. I then went to a small electronic store and got a switch for 50 cents. So once it all got here, I sat down with my dad who has better soldering skills than I do. We opened it up and connected the switch with some wires. So we attached two wires to the switch and ran them through a hole we found on the board. Then we took a look at the 5V pin and the 16th pin connectors. Applied some solder and to the ends of the wires. Be sure to cut the length of wire that you need, cause there are no wire extenders Once we got that all done we drilled a hole next to the power connector and made it fit perfectly. It was then that I noticed that the amazon picture had the word Civd on it, but the one i received didn't. Hummm, weird. Now since the 5V is connected to the 16th pin on the board, flipping the switch on activates RGB mode! And since the 16th pin is cut in the Atari scart cable, theres no voltage getting back to the Atari! And holy cow man, it works!!! So thanks to all of your guys help to making this work. Now I can take my Atari ST out to my shows and mix them into my VJ visuals Later guys.

Wow, I can't believe it. I actually got it to work. Its now displaying on my Asus HD monitor. I will post some further details soon. However I wanted to ask you guys. I have a switch built in to turn the 5V on and off. When you leave it on and you are working on your ST, do you notice the adapter box getting abnormally hot? I flip the switch off and leave it plugged in and it cools off. Has that happened to you guys? Also I am wondering about the resistor ohms in the scart cable. Are those in place to keep any odd volts from jumping through the cable to protect the Atari from being harmed? If not, what purpose does that serve? Anyway, thank you so much for posting this info. It really is the best solution.