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About milamontagne

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    Space Invader
  1. So i finally settled my nerves and attempted to recap my light 6er yesterday. I did all of the caps on the switchboard plus removed the RF box and switch, to eliminate any interference from that end. However, because this is a modded system (I had it modded years ago) the leads into the mod board run through a hole in the metal casing and I'll have do cut and resolder them if i really want to fully recap and mod the system as the Console5 guys recommend. The mod board was made by the electronicSentimentalities guy and it was very well done at the time. Sorry to hear he's out of it, would like to buy another board and do it myself on another 2600. Anyone heard anything? Anyhow, the good news is the 2600 is no longer going dead after 15 minutes or so. Figured it might have been the 7805 voltage regulator. Bad news is I still have interference issues. When the left (or second) audio jack is plugged in (partially or fully), every time an audio event occurs, there are scrolling straight lines about 2/3 across the screen. If left disconnected, they dont appear. I'd like to be able to use both channels (Tunnel runner, my fav 2600 game sounds even creepier with the stereo mod!) The other minor issues are wavy lines, not bad but still there. One type is from the lower corner right to the upper corner left of the screen. The other wavy lines are more roundish in shape and scroll from the bottom to the top. The last issue is an odd one: Every so often, the paddle controllers will randomly jerk around. I've replaced the pots allready and its not constant - it comes and goes. Color's also appear to be a bit faded, but I'm assumeing thats because the system was from around before the color/video fix was implemented. Sorry i cant post pictures - my camera dosent see the interference from the crt. What I'd like to know is the possibility of eliminating the final bugs and if its worth it to try replacing one or more of the IC's. The combination sound/video issue showed up at the same time that i think the 7805 blew - maybe it damaged the TIA chip? I don't mind pressing my luck and fully tearing it down, but I'm trying to weigh the risk vs benefit. I might be getting another 6er to mod so this would then be the backup system. All in all, i'm kinda happy with the system now that its back to being reliable again. The video issues are a bit minor, I'm just a perfectionist
  2. Thanks for the link to the kit - I might as well replace the caps + voltage regulator if I'm going to be fully opening it up. As far as S-video, yes, it looks MUCH better. Now if I could only get an idea of what I need to replace before I open it up... I see a post below that mentions the RIOT and TIA chips. I understand the TIA is the television interface adapter (Duh) but the other chip I dont know. Is there a good source for both of these? I've ordered paddle pots from best electronics, maybe they carry spare chips?
  3. I've tried both S-video and Composite. Both have the same result. Flashes of red, brightening untill a brief switch to black and white before video and sound cut out.
  4. Hi everyone. Some time ago, I got my 2600 modded for composite, s-video, and stereo audio. About a month back, the video started going from green to red intermittently (Kaboom!). A few weeks back it started flashing brighter and brighter red untill the video cut out. A power cycle solves this, though not for long. Its more prevelant the longer the system is used, so it maybe a heat or power issue. The sound dies just as the video goes to black and white for a second before the video cuts out entirely. I purchased a retrobit replacement powersupply, thinking the original one was dying. This seemed to fix the issue for about a day or so and then the same issues returned. I've opened the Atari up, but i can't get to the main chips without desoldering/cutting the wires connecting the video out mod chip. I'd like to get an opinion as to what else i can do before I get any deeper. Does anyone have any advice on what i should try or what chips need to be replaced? Also, does the RF circuitry need to remain in place? I'll have some pictures as soon as i can get my bench cleared and the 2600 opened up. Thanks for your time!
  5. As CRT TV's become rare, I'm taking the extra precaution against surges and brownout by running mine (as well as all of my retro systems) thru a double conversion ups. Its basically the safest way i can think of to safeguard/prolong their life. Problem is, even the very good PWM ones (like the one i have) that are supposed to have near-sinewave output also have horrible noise problems. While this doesn't matter to computer power supplies or LCD's, in CRT's (Mines a nice Sony Trinitron) this seriously degrades the picture. I'm looking at buying a line isolation transformer, but they are not cheap. Yes, i am aware that powering transformer and motor equipment from inverters has its own issues (Anything outside 60hz gets dissipated as heat) Does anyone have any further idea's on filtering?
  6. I had to reset my password recently, and the email i received contained only HTML. I was wondering if there was an option to recieve only text, as i have HTML disabled for security reasons in my email program (Mozilla thunderbird) Thanks!
  7. I know i might be in the minority here (I got to reading the first 12 or so pages before posting this) but i would ask for controller ports on the system itself (or at least for the most common ones) My reasoning is I've seen plenty of usb ports go bad with frequent use. It'd be less of a concern if the ports were not soldered directly onto the mainboard and could be replaced easily. Good quality 8-pin connectors can live a very,very, VERY long time before any prolbems occur. Same goes for other console game system ports. they were designed to be plugged in and out while a kid's hands were slimy with pizza grease, mud, etc. Plus, when you get down to it, usb adds lag to the system. Many PC gamers prefer old ps/2 style ports over usb due to the ability to mash multiple keys at once (NKRO and 8KRO are common terms) I love the idea of this project, but IMHO, it'd be better to work in console ports (or at least a pluggable option board) before worrying about cartridge adapters. I'll duck out here before i'm burnt at the stake for heresy...
  8. I'm looking to trade a CIB copy of space Shuttle for A CIB copy of Tunnel runner. Box includes the Car, the manual, The cardboard overlay and the cardboard quick-guide (i think thats what its called) I'll throw in 2 other CIB games, Fireworld and Earthworld PM me with any questions or if your interested
  9. I have two Swordquest games, Fireworld and Earthworld Both are CIB and the boxes are in fair to good shape, with rips in the top from being opened as well as minor damage to the boxes themselves (dents and small tears) I'm looking for a CIB copy of Tunnel Runner Please PM if your interested. Pics will be made available upon request
  10. Thank you very much for your response! I've spend a few days off and on trying to fix this. I had the guy on ebay do the mod (its the LHE one) I don't know if he checked the caps on the board. Yes, they were present on RF (though a lot less noticeable because the RF output was far far worse) He mentioned opening up the 2600 (no problem for me, as i opened it before and gave it a full cleaning when i got it) and adjusting the two pots for brightness and contrast, but i'm not so sure that will solve the jailbars issue. I saw another post here on AA about the mod board flexing and haveing the jailbars issue due to poor solder joints. Is there a parts list and location of the capacitors in the atari? When i checked the 2600 originally, it looked like it had seen prior servicing by a competent tech (unless Atari originally socketed the major IC's)
  11. Hi. I probably should have waited for someone here to do the mod, but I purchased the service on ebay and ive received my light sixer back, and the vertical interferance bars that showed up before i had it modded are still present. I'm contacting the seller, but, in case he can't/wont fix it and i have to open it up myself again (When i bought it i opened it up for a full cleaning and replaced the heatsink compound under the voltage regulator) What should i try if i'm stuck with the unit?
  12. Please forgive me if this is not the right place for this, as this is my first post and i havent seen a better area for this. I'm looking to get the s-vhs mod done to my atari light 6, and i dont trust my soldering skills. Can anyone help? Thanks.
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