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Everything posted by SoulBuster
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Intellivision Ebay Roundup
SoulBuster replied to IntellivisionDude's topic in Intellivision / Aquarius
eBay Auction -- Item Number: 200892471049 I know I paid way to much, but now I do not have to look for it any more. -
OK the titles that are left to get to 125. Includes titles that are not CIB an may not be CIB to get me there. Congo Bongo Championship Tennis Defender Fathom Jetson's Way with Words Learning Fun I Learning Fun II Melody Blaster Stadium Mud Buggies Triple Challenge Tutankham Spiker Volleyball Body Slam Wrestling
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Updated my games list Games: Advanced Dungeons and Dragons CIB Ad&d: Treasure of Tarmin CIB Armor Battle CIB Astrosmash CIB Atlantis CIB Auto Racing CIB B-17 Bomber CIB Backgammon CIB Beamrider Cart and Instr (added) Beauty and the Beast CIB Blockade Runner Need overlays (added) Bomb Squad NIB Bowling CIB Boxing CIB Bump and Jump CIB (updated) Burgertime CIB Buzz Bombers CIB Carnival CIB Centipede CIB Checkers CIB Chip Shot Golf CIB Christmas Carol NIB (added) Commando Cart and Instr (added) Demon Attack CIB Dig Dug CIB (added) Diner CIB (Updated) Donkey Kong CIB Donkey Kong Jr CIB (added) D2K Arcade NIB (added) Dracula CIB Dragonfire CIB Dreadnaught Factor CIB Frog Bog CIB Frogger CIB Golf CIB (updated) Happy Trails CIB Horse Racing CIB Hover Force CIB (updated) Ice Trek CIB Kool-Aid Man CIB (updated) Ladybug CIB Las Vegas Poker NIB Las Vegas Roulette CIB Lock N Chase CIB Loco-Motion CIB (added) Major League Baseball CIB Masters of the Universe CIB Math Fun CIB Microsurgeon CIB Mind Strike NIB (updated) Mine Hunter NIB (added) Mission X CIB MotoCross CIB (updated) Mountain Madness Skiing CIB (added) Mousetrap CIB (updated) Mr. Basic Meets Bits and Bytes NIB NASL Soccer CIB NBA Basketball CIB NFL Football CIB NHL Hockey CIB Night Stalker CIB Nova Blast Need 1 Overlay Pac-Man CIB PBA Bowling CIB PGA Golf CIB Pinball CIB (updated) Pitfall CIB Pole Posotion CIB (added) Popeye CIB Q-Bert CIB Reversi CIB River Raid CIB Royal Dealer CIB SafeCracker CIB Scooby Doo Maze Chase NIB (added) Sea Battle CIB Sewer Sam CIB (added) Shark! Shark! CIB Sharp Shot CIB Slam Dunk Basketball CIB (added) Slap Shot Super Pro Hockey CIB (added) Snafu CIB Space Armada CIB Space Battle CIB Space Hawk CIB Space Spartans CIB Stampede CIB Star Strike CIB Star Wars: Empire Strikes CIB Sub Hunt CIB Super Cobra CIB (New, In Mail) Super Pro Decathalon CIB (added) Super Pro Football CIB (updated) Swords and Serpents CIB Tennis CIB Thin Ice CIB Thunder Castle CIB Tower of Doom CIB (updated) Triple Action CIB Tron Deadly Discs CIB Tron Maze-A-Tron CIB Tron Solar Sailor CIB Tropical Trouble CIB (added) Truckin' CIB (added) Turbo Cart (added) USA Skiing CIB USCF Chess CIB (Updated) Utopia CIB Vectron CIB (added) Venture CIB (added) White Water CIB (added) Word Fun CIB World Championship BB CIB (added) World Cup Soccer CIB World Series Major League BB Cart Worm Whomper Need 1 Overlay (added) Zaxxon CIB (updated)
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Still waiting for my order to arrive. When did these mail out?
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There is a lot to go through, I am taking my time.
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There are a couple of changes that I would recommend for this video. 1. Remove the Overlay frame first. It pops off real easy by prying on the top and bottom of the frame from inside the pad. This frame has the plastic that goes inbetween the buttons and the mylar. Removing it first eliminates them from being broken while taking apart the rest of the controller. 2. He is prying almost directly where the internal catches are. Half the time you will break these and have to glue the controller back together. The area to pry is correct, but instead of the prying on the long axis move your pry bar to the short axis at the very end of the controller. This allows the top part of the catch to move away from the bottom part of the catch in a sideways motion, thereby NOT breaking either one. 3. During reassembly, replace the overlay frame last. Other than these points the video is very good. It is the one I used to start with and made these changes.
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I upgraded to wIndows 8 and it can be used EXACTLY like windows 7, with the exception of clicking to get to the desktop. The main difference between 7 and 8 is you get the additional capability to use it in touch screen mode. The start menu has changed to the Metro Style screen, but can still be clicked rather than touched. And some other variation that will take you about an afternoon to iron out. I use it to play Civilization V in touch screen mode.
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OSS 4 IN 1 Supercart Express Interest Thread
SoulBuster replied to santosp's topic in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Put me on the list for one on the next run! -
Metro Electronics. They are a local electronic parts store. It does not look like they are set up for internet sales. It is kinda cool having a local place to just walk into and pick stuff up though.
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I did not ask God for help and he offered none so his mercy is not needed here . Looks like I laid that PCB right on the motherboard, right ? There are 4 different rubber feet under it to keep everything up off the main board ! The best part(s), I did not have to drill the main board and it doesn't move at all .
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I just finished my 130xe upgrade. Now to do the 800XL. Hope it is easier.
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I am interested
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Thanks, there really wasn't any instructions on the internet on how to do this. I just figured it needed to be put out there somewhere.
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I got a lot of the information I needed to complete my drive from the dual drive upgrade (I had to back out everything regarding a dual drive to make it a single drive upgrade.) The only other documentation I found was Bob Wooley's article in Antic (which is included with the roms). It explains how to modify the roms code to be able to use a 3.5 drive, but does not explain how to install everything into the drive case. The rest was my own conclusions on how to get my drive upgraded and some suppositions for other OS rom configuration possibilities. I used the Hyper XF Roms. You can also use this method to get a more stable OS for the 5 1/4 in mech. The only parts you need are the U6 and S3/S4 parts of the instructions! The zip files come with a rom for the 3 1/2 inch upgrade as well as a modified rom for 5 1/4 inch mech. On of my other drives will get the 5 1/4 inch upgrade. I have done some testing and found that you can set Sparta DOS to DSDD and tracks to 77 (8 inch drive) and you can format a 1.44 disk, with the hole covered (you know 720k) to just over a meg. I cannot vouch for stability of the data written to it, but you can fill it, for how long who knows, just an FYI here.
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It only takes about an hour to an hour 1/2, once you have all the information. Took me 5 days to get all the information together and make my guesses.
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Finished the conversion of my XF551 from 5 1/4 to a 3 1/2 inch drive. I took me awhile to find the answers on how this upgrade was done (I even had to guess at some of it). I wanted these instructions to be at the top of a thread instead of buried in the middle of another, just in case someone else wanted to create one of these "novelty" items. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!! THE XF551 PCB IS A SINGLE SIDED PCB AND IS VERY FRAGILE. OVERHEATING WILL CAUSE TRACES TO BREAK. If you are not handy with soldering tools, leave it to professionals. These instructions are written for professionals. If anything in here confuses you, stop and get help. Parts Needed 1 28 pin wide socket (Only if U6 does not have a socket already in it) 1 longer floppy cable with IDC connector (optional additional card edge connector for the purpose of returning to the original mechanism or dual mechs, not covered here) 1 Molex to 4 pin floppy power adapter 1 2764 eprom programmed with the new XF551 rom (lots of places to download). 1 5 1/4 to 3 1/2 inch drive mounting adapter. Tools Soldering Iron (30 watts max, I use a 15/30 watt) Desoldering Item (desoldering plunger, desoldering iron (30 watts max, my preference) or desoldering wick) Needle nose pliers Phillips screwdriver Precision flat head screwdriver IC Remover I will not go through the mundane steps of taking apart the XF551 as it is pretty self evident, take all the screws out. There is one screw that is the exception. There are 4 screws to remove the PCB. 3 are easily visible. The 4th is located under the heat dissipator and there is a hole provided to reach it. Getting it out is easy enough, but putting it back, I used a magenetic screwdriver. First look at U6 on the PCB. I imagine there are 4 possibilities. 1. It is empty. Your drive is using the "internal" OS. You will need to desolder the holes of U6 then solder in a 28 pin wide socket. 2. There is an empty 28 pin socket. Your drive is using the "internal" OS. 3. There is a 28 pin IC soldered to the PCB. Your drive uses the "external" OS. You will need to desolder the IC in U6 and then solder in a 28 pin wide socket. 4. There is a 28 pin IC mounted in a socket. Your drive uses the "external" OS. You only need to remove the IC from the socket. In all cases, your programmed 2764 goes in this socket and will be used as an "external" OS. Next look near the 40 pin IC. There are two jumpers (a wire over the PCB) labeled S3 and S4. These decide whether you are using an "internal" OS (S4 jumped, S3 empty) or an "external" OS (S3 jumped, S4 empty). With the upgrade being an "external" OS, S3 needs to be jumped and S4 needs to be empty. If S4 is jumped, you can remove it and use it to jump S3. To remove with the best possible results, use your precision flat head screw driver to straighten each end of the jumper pins while heating it with your soldering iron. Let it cool completely, then use the desoldering tool of your choice and remove. Resolder it in S3. Replace ribbon cable. A. Using the precision screwdriver, unlock each side of the plastic crossbar of the IDC connector that is soldered onto the XF551 PCB. Do this next to the PCB, it cannot be done from the top. B. With the crossbar removed, take note of where pin one is by the colored line of the cable. Use the precision screwdriver to carefully lift the ribbon cable from the IDC connector starting at one end and slowly moving to the other. C. When attaching the new ribbon cable, I do not reccomend using a squeeze method (vise) using the crossbar. The XF551 PCB is so fragile, I would not be surprised to see it break if this method were used. Line the new longer cable up with pin one (you took note of this above). I used a pair of needle nose pliers to gently push the ribbon cable itself onto the connector, layin each side of the pliers on either side of the pins to give me even pressure. You must have patience when doing this. Then I placed the crossbar on as a cap. Mount the completed the PCB in to the case (rememberthe screw I mentioned above?). The XF551 drive requires the drive mechanism to be jumped as drive 0. All modern 3 1/2 inch PC drives are jumped as drive 1 permanently, but usually have a way to solder a wire to jumper it as drive 0. You will need to consult the manufactuer's specs and make it a drive 0 mech. Mount the 3 1/2 inch drive in your mounting adapter. Remove the XF551 mechanism mounting rails from the 5 1/4 inch drive and attach them to the 3 1/2 inch mounting adapter. Mount this assembly to the drive case. Attach the new ribbon cable and the power adapter to the drive. Plug in your computer and test with Sparta DOS. Test Successful, reassemble case.
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Controlling EM Pinball with an Atari 800XL
SoulBuster replied to ZZTOP SOFT's topic in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Dude, incredibly awesome. If you are planning on making your finding public, please do. I think I know of a place where pinball machines are mothballed and can use restoration. -
Myide 2 for Atari 8 bit from Atarimax / mr Atari
SoulBuster replied to fernando marrin's topic in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Too late, your gone!!
