Jump to content
Have You Played Atari Today?
2600|5200|7800|Lynx|Jaguar|Forums|Store  

SoulBuster

+AtariAge Subscriber
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    2,785

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by SoulBuster

  5. Posted

    Updated my games list

     

    Games:

    Advanced Dungeons and Dragons CIB

    Ad&d: Treasure of Tarmin CIB

    Armor Battle CIB

    Astrosmash CIB

    Atlantis CIB

    Auto Racing CIB

    B-17 Bomber CIB

    Backgammon CIB

    Beamrider Cart and Instr (added)

    Beauty and the Beast CIB

    Blockade Runner Need overlays (added)

    Bomb Squad NIB

    Bowling CIB

    Boxing CIB

    Bump and Jump CIB (updated)

    Burgertime CIB

    Buzz Bombers CIB

    Carnival CIB

    Centipede CIB

    Checkers CIB

    Chip Shot Golf CIB

    Christmas Carol NIB (added)

    Commando Cart and Instr (added)

    Demon Attack CIB

    Dig Dug CIB (added)

    Diner CIB (Updated)

    Donkey Kong CIB

    Donkey Kong Jr CIB (added)

    D2K Arcade NIB (added)

    Dracula CIB

    Dragonfire CIB

    Dreadnaught Factor CIB

    Frog Bog CIB

    Frogger CIB

    Golf CIB (updated)

    Happy Trails CIB

    Horse Racing CIB

    Hover Force CIB (updated)

    Ice Trek CIB

    Kool-Aid Man CIB (updated)

    Ladybug CIB

    Las Vegas Poker NIB

    Las Vegas Roulette CIB

    Lock N Chase CIB

    Loco-Motion CIB (added)

    Major League Baseball CIB

    Masters of the Universe CIB

    Math Fun CIB

    Microsurgeon CIB

    Mind Strike NIB (updated)

    Mine Hunter NIB (added)

    Mission X CIB

    MotoCross CIB (updated)

    Mountain Madness Skiing CIB (added)

    Mousetrap CIB (updated)

    Mr. Basic Meets Bits and Bytes NIB

    NASL Soccer CIB

    NBA Basketball CIB

    NFL Football CIB

    NHL Hockey CIB

    Night Stalker CIB

    Nova Blast Need 1 Overlay

    Pac-Man CIB

    PBA Bowling CIB

    PGA Golf CIB

    Pinball CIB (updated)

    Pitfall CIB

    Pole Posotion CIB (added)

    Popeye CIB

    Q-Bert CIB

    Reversi CIB

    River Raid CIB

    Royal Dealer CIB

    SafeCracker CIB

    Scooby Doo Maze Chase NIB (added)

    Sea Battle CIB

    Sewer Sam CIB (added)

    Shark! Shark! CIB

    Sharp Shot CIB

    Slam Dunk Basketball CIB (added)

    Slap Shot Super Pro Hockey CIB (added)

    Snafu CIB

    Space Armada CIB

    Space Battle CIB

    Space Hawk CIB

    Space Spartans CIB

    Stampede CIB

    Star Strike CIB

    Star Wars: Empire Strikes CIB

    Sub Hunt CIB

    Super Cobra CIB (New, In Mail)

    Super Pro Decathalon CIB (added)

    Super Pro Football CIB (updated)

    Swords and Serpents CIB

    Tennis CIB

    Thin Ice CIB

    Thunder Castle CIB

    Tower of Doom CIB (updated)

    Triple Action CIB

    Tron Deadly Discs CIB

    Tron Maze-A-Tron CIB

    Tron Solar Sailor CIB

    Tropical Trouble CIB (added)

    Truckin' CIB (added)

    Turbo Cart (added)

    USA Skiing CIB

    USCF Chess CIB (Updated)

    Utopia CIB

    Vectron CIB (added)

    Venture CIB (added)

    White Water CIB (added)

    Word Fun CIB

    World Championship BB CIB (added)

    World Cup Soccer CIB

    World Series Major League BB Cart

    Worm Whomper Need 1 Overlay (added)

    Zaxxon CIB (updated)

  8. Posted · Edited by SoulBuster

    See this video to see how to open the controller..

     

    [media=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDZrMdSFF0w][/media]

    There are a couple of changes that I would recommend for this video. 1. Remove the Overlay frame first. It pops off real easy by prying on the top and bottom of the frame from inside the pad. This frame has the plastic that goes inbetween the buttons and the mylar. Removing it first eliminates them from being broken while taking apart the rest of the controller. 2. He is prying almost directly where the internal catches are. Half the time you will break these and have to glue the controller back together. The area to pry is correct, but instead of the prying on the long axis move your pry bar to the short axis at the very end of the controller. This allows the top part of the catch to move away from the bottom part of the catch in a sideways motion, thereby NOT breaking either one. 3. During reassembly, replace the overlay frame last. Other than these points the video is very good. It is the one I used to start with and made these changes.
    • Like 2

  10. Posted

    I have been warned not to upgrade to Windows 8 because it was designed mainly for touch screens/tablets, and that it doesn't work well(or at least requires a lot of time to learn how to work with it) with standard desktop systems.

    I heard the same thing.

     

    I upgraded to wIndows 8 and it can be used EXACTLY like windows 7, with the exception of clicking to get to the desktop. The main difference between 7 and 8 is you get the additional capability to use it in touch screen mode. The start menu has changed to the Metro Style screen, but can still be clicked rather than touched. And some other variation that will take you about an afternoon to iron out. I use it to play Civilization V in touch screen mode.

  13. Posted

    I did not ask God for help and he offered none so his mercy is not needed here :twisted: . Looks like I laid that PCB right on the motherboard, right :-o ? There are 4 different rubber feet under it to keep everything up off the main board ;) ! The best part(s), I did not have to drill the main board and it doesn't move at all :D.

  17. Posted · Edited by SoulBuster

    What were your original source(s) for these docs? I'm curious about some of the steps/possibilities listed that I've not seen required before on US model pcb's. Not saying they don't exist, but seeing the posters/locations might put some context to those instructions (e.g. European models?).

     

    BTW, I've found it much easier to extend the ribbon cable (when required) than to do a cable replacement.

     

    -Larry

     

    I got a lot of the information I needed to complete my drive from the dual drive upgrade (I had to back out everything regarding a dual drive to make it a single drive upgrade.)

     

    The only other documentation I found was Bob Wooley's article in Antic (which is included with the roms). It explains how to modify the roms code to be able to use a 3.5 drive, but does not explain how to install everything into the drive case.

     

    The rest was my own conclusions on how to get my drive upgraded and some suppositions for other OS rom configuration possibilities.

     

    Just had a look at my 3.5" modded XF... seems I replaced the original ribbon with one which has both 5.25 and 3.5 inch floppy connectors.

     

    Must admit I've lost track of which is the best 80 track ROM for use with this mod.

     

    I used the Hyper XF Roms.

     

    You can also use this method to get a more stable OS for the 5 1/4 in mech. The only parts you need are the U6 and S3/S4 parts of the instructions! The zip files come with a rom for the 3 1/2 inch upgrade as well as a modified rom for 5 1/4 inch mech. On of my other drives will get the 5 1/4 inch upgrade.

     

    I have done some testing and found that you can set Sparta DOS to DSDD and tracks to 77 (8 inch drive) and you can format a 1.44 disk, with the hole covered (you know 720k) to just over a meg. I cannot vouch for stability of the data written to it, but you can fill it, for how long who knows, just an FYI here.

  19. Posted

    Finished the conversion of my XF551 from 5 1/4 to a 3 1/2 inch drive.

    I took me awhile to find the answers on how this upgrade was done (I even had to guess at some of it). I wanted these instructions to be at the top of a thread instead of buried in the middle of another, just in case someone else wanted to create one of these "novelty" items.

    I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!! THE XF551 PCB IS A SINGLE SIDED PCB AND IS VERY FRAGILE. OVERHEATING WILL CAUSE TRACES TO BREAK.

    If you are not handy with soldering tools, leave it to professionals. These instructions are written for professionals. If anything in here confuses you, stop and get help.

    Parts Needed

    1 28 pin wide socket (Only if U6 does not have a socket already in it)

    1 longer floppy cable with IDC connector (optional additional card edge connector for the purpose of returning to the original mechanism or dual mechs, not covered here)

    1 Molex to 4 pin floppy power adapter

    1 2764 eprom programmed with the new XF551 rom (lots of places to download).

    1 5 1/4 to 3 1/2 inch drive mounting adapter.

    Tools

    Soldering Iron (30 watts max, I use a 15/30 watt)

    Desoldering Item (desoldering plunger, desoldering iron (30 watts max, my preference) or desoldering wick)

    Needle nose pliers

    Phillips screwdriver

    Precision flat head screwdriver

    IC Remover

    I will not go through the mundane steps of taking apart the XF551 as it is pretty self evident, take all the screws out. There is one screw that is the exception. There are 4 screws to remove the PCB. 3 are easily visible. The 4th is located under the heat dissipator and there is a hole provided to reach it. Getting it out is easy enough, but putting it back, I used a magenetic screwdriver.

    First look at U6 on the PCB. I imagine there are 4 possibilities.

    1. It is empty. Your drive is using the "internal" OS. You will need to desolder the holes of U6 then solder in a 28 pin wide socket.

    2. There is an empty 28 pin socket. Your drive is using the "internal" OS.

    3. There is a 28 pin IC soldered to the PCB. Your drive uses the "external" OS. You will need to desolder the IC in U6 and then solder in a 28 pin wide socket.

    4. There is a 28 pin IC mounted in a socket. Your drive uses the "external" OS. You only need to remove the IC from the socket.

    In all cases, your programmed 2764 goes in this socket and will be used as an "external" OS.

    Next look near the 40 pin IC. There are two jumpers (a wire over the PCB) labeled S3 and S4. These decide whether you are using an "internal" OS (S4 jumped, S3 empty) or an "external" OS (S3 jumped, S4 empty). With the upgrade being an "external" OS, S3 needs to be jumped and S4 needs to be empty. If S4 is jumped, you can remove it and use it to jump S3. To remove with the best possible results, use your precision flat head screw driver to straighten each end of the jumper pins while heating it with your soldering iron. Let it cool completely, then use the desoldering tool of your choice and remove. Resolder it in S3.

    Replace ribbon cable.

    A. Using the precision screwdriver, unlock each side of the plastic crossbar of the IDC connector that is soldered onto the XF551 PCB. Do this next to the PCB, it cannot be done from the top.

    B. With the crossbar removed, take note of where pin one is by the colored line of the cable. Use the precision screwdriver to carefully lift the ribbon cable from the IDC connector starting at one end and slowly moving to the other.

    C. When attaching the new ribbon cable, I do not reccomend using a squeeze method (vise) using the crossbar. The XF551 PCB is so fragile, I would not be surprised to see it break if this method were used. Line the new longer cable up with pin one (you took note of this above). I used a pair of needle nose pliers to gently push the ribbon cable itself onto the connector, layin each side of the pliers on either side of the pins to give me even pressure. You must have patience when doing this. Then I placed the crossbar on as a cap.

    Mount the completed the PCB in to the case (rememberthe screw I mentioned above?).

    The XF551 drive requires the drive mechanism to be jumped as drive 0. All modern 3 1/2 inch PC drives are jumped as drive 1 permanently, but usually have a way to solder a wire to jumper it as drive 0. You will need to consult the manufactuer's specs and make it a drive 0 mech.

    Mount the 3 1/2 inch drive in your mounting adapter. Remove the XF551 mechanism mounting rails from the 5 1/4 inch drive and attach them to the 3 1/2 inch mounting adapter. Mount this assembly to the drive case. Attach the new ribbon cable and the power adapter to the drive.

    Plug in your computer and test with Sparta DOS.

    Test Successful, reassemble case.

    100_2117_zpsbd97a1c8.jpg 02_zps1e9d5b8b.jpg03_zps2a924d86.jpg100_2125_zps08c46c8c.jpg100_2128_zps9a6616ad.jpg100_2127_zps518d7e72.jpg 100_2123_zps44045e0a.jpg

    • Like 6

  21. Posted

    Very nice ITV collection! You are missing a few, though. Wiki surprisingly (or rather, not surprising anymore) has the full list, and as far as I can tell, it's accurate.

     

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intellivision_games

     

    You are in Brooklyn with that user name. Nice. Hey thanks for the reply. I want to try to accumulate everything that is anything. I have only started, so what is the best to go after?

AtariAge
Forums
Store
General
Follow AtariAge

Copyright ©1998-2021 AtariAge

×
×
  • Create New...