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EV9D9

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About EV9D9

  • Rank
    Space Invader

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Interests
    Films, Games, Adventure, Treasure...
  • Currently Playing
    Various Games...
  1. ahh never mind I think I found the solution. There was an odd RGB setting to move the picture.
  2. I have this strange problem with my CRT when running games via RGB, the right side of the screen seems to have some kind of colour bleed or something. It doesn't happen when running the games via composite and I checked the SCART cables, all the pins seem to have the correct components and wiring. Here's Sonic on the Mega Drive, it seems that the background colour bleeds through to the front. Depending on the main colour used in the background layer, that is usually the one that comes on top, like the casino zone or which ever has a reddish background, the red would show on top instead. It's less visible on the PS1 as it only comes across as barely visible white instead. The TV's a PAL Sony Trinitron from around the early 2000's, not used excessively I don't think, it's just strange that this only happens when using RGB. Anyone have any ideas or experience with this kind of thing?
  3. Hello and welcome to the forums, if you're going to get an American Genesis you can use your own countries Master system or Mega Drives power cables, they'll work just fine. As for the video, I recommend an RGB SCART cable with an included audio jack for stereo, which are easily found on the internet. Genesis/Mega Drives will work on any newer HD TV's, however they'll look poor due to the low analogue resolution being up scaled to HD, an RGB SCART cable will make it look less poor than it would with standard composite cables, but it'll still be a bit rough. Modded PAL Mega Drives usually have a couple of switches on them to change their region and Hz range, so you'll be able to play everything on it with no trouble, though Japanese cartridges won't fit into the slot unless it's been altered. Hope that helps
  4. I had a similar problem with my 4-port, what I did to get it working was to swap around some chips. I Don't know about the 2-port but on my 5200 there were 4 or 5 small chips spaced out near the controller ports (around 1 for each port I guess, each one are the same), I swapped out the very end one on the right for the first one on the left and that got it working.
  5. EV9D9

    Power mod

    Link 1: http://www.atariage....ning-big/ <--- Power Mod Parts Needed: Power jack 2.5 I.D.(Inner Diameter) 5.5 O.D.(Outer Diameter) 47uf Electrolytic capacitor 35v .1uf Ceramic capacitor 50v 1N5391G Diode Four inchs of medium gauge wire Link2: http://www.atariage....6 Details on the AV Mod I personally haven't tried the AV mod, but the power mod is definitely worth it.
  6. Ok so I'm not good with titles. Anyway I just bought a 5200 4 port (since it was relatively cheap compared with importing and in the UK already). Now since I'm in the UK I've got to do some mods to the beast, the AV and Power mods, not to mention I'll have to fix the controllers. Does anyone have info/links they could provide to the necessary parts for a UK power conversion and the AV mods/parts I'll need? or have parts themselves? I know I can search around for the info but I also wanted to ask If anyone could sell me any spare 5200 games that they have? Yeah it may seem a bit of a risk straight up jumping into the 5200 scene, but I just wanted to have a go with it myself. Any help is appreciated.
  7. Yeah I get what you mean, these seem to have less tension in their springs though you can always switch them for better ones, even so I prefer the normal "clicky" H6 joysticks... as they do feel more rigid when in play, still though, I thought this was a pretty cool find for me.
  8. Found this inside one of the H6er Joysticks I got today, seems like it must have been a very early one. I guess they cheaped them out quickly after this , as all the other ones I've seen/own have the typical cx-10 PCB's. I Changed the thin springs it had for the thick/better tension ones and It works really well, more so than my other ones. Anyone else got one like these?
  9. You mean like one of these ? http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FAERIAL-MALE-RCA-FEMALE-SOCKET-COAX-TV-RF-ADAPTER-%2F310150474767%3F_trksid%3Dp5197.m1992%26_trkparms%3Daid%253D111000%2526algo%253DREC.CURRENT%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D14%2526meid%253D4570552393470171708%2526pid%253D100015%2526prg%253D1006%2526rk%253D2%2526sd%253D200872114020%2526 I know this one if for UK as I use one, but I don't know about the other euro countries.
  10. Thought I'd add mine I got recently... WORKSHEET: Atari 2600 Heavy 6 Switch List Worksheet: NTSC/PAL/Sears/Special: PAL Serial # (Ex: #54035V or #007649): #79673 MFG Location (Sunnyvale, Taiwan): Sunnyvale (Owner/AA Member), (Location= City, State, Country): EV9D9, United Kingdom A/B Channel Slot (Yes/No): Yes A/B Channel Switch (Yes/No): No Functional (Yes/No): Yes Notes (Previous owner, display only, white sticker, parts fixed, green connector, Switchboard/Motherboard Revision #): Chrome Switches, Green Cartridge Connector, Switch board Rev 1, Motherboard Rev 1 dated 1978 (Top half is red, bottom half is painted green) Refurbished (Silver Label) (Yes/No): No
  11. I don't know if anyone does a spring kit for them. I think you'd just have to find exact ones from something else and use those, but unless their rusted through I wouldn't' have thought they'd need replacing. As for the wires, that was something that got in the way when I was sorting one of mine out, the wires can be in a slightly different place (bent/organized differently) in each controller and so it can vary as to which is the best way to put them. Like you said it can compress the unit as it's put back together. I'd try closing it up as it is at first and without screwing it in see if any side is higher than the other, this will help you determine which wires need to be rearranged and could be tucked over the pcb's side instead of under, perhaps that may help.
  12. I had a similar issue with mine but managed to sought it out. Actually I'm getting some more in the mail and may do a video on how to clean/restore them. One thing you could do is stretch the springs a little like shadow said, also you may want to check exactly how the springs will move when the plastic piece is attached. The springs can get caught up at certain angles when they're moved, so just adjust them by twisting them around a little until you get them into the right spot.
  13. Looking for at least 1 original Heavy Sixer Joystick controller. It doesn't have to work but it needs to have the original parts (with or without the Hex). Structurally sound and not cracked or chewed up. (Within UK or will post to UK) PM me if you happen to have any. -AJ UPDATE ---------------- FOUND SOME--------------------
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