chas10e

well I won't be moving to Canada

used google to search site .... this may help ... http://atariage.com/forums/topic/221403-atari-5200-color-coded-controller-pinout/?p=2916213 http://atariage.com/forums/topic/119395-digital-controller-for-the-atari-5200/?p=1444269

after the e-mail feel free to give him a phone call as well to talk about your "mushy sticks" it may be the handles as well new button will help as well

I was reluctant to post about it , but there is some good info in that thread , I only work on my own stuff ... I just grabbed the wrong tool at the right time. if it will help the OP avoid a similar disaster on his unit ( and others) that will be a good thing

I have a Sears Tele-games Speedway , unfortunately I broke the IC chip trying to re-seat it it seems to have the same IC chip http://www.pong-story.com/url.htm(Universal Research Laboratories) the way the socket legs are attached to the chip may be the "problem" of the ball not showing up I do not know how the legs are electrically connected to the traces on the chip, mechanically they are fastened to the exterior of the chip the image of my broken one , in the red circle to the left is one of the pins ... it's "F" shaped http://atariage.com/forums/topic/239275-wanted-the-ceramic-ic-chip-for-sears-telegames-speedway/

elmers rubber cement .... remove label completely with a hair dryer for q-bert & similar wrap around labels

http://retroauction.com/buying-and-selling-an-atari-5200/ bide your time I'd say ... local pickup probably the best

well I will certainly no longer be using this stuff http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Oatey-Tinning-Flux-p/30374.htm?gclid=COmflq36yMwCFU5Zhgod93EHHA it didn't say that on the actual package when I picked it up thanks for the heads up & why I only work on my own stuff /me faints I haven't used a lot of it ... mostly for tinning a wire here & there ... but yeah on a couple pinball machines with loose lamp sockets , any board work I don't recall needing flux, usually replacing capacitors I clean up with some 90% rubbing alcohol afterwards whatever the gooey stuff -residue I see on the q-tip is

I'm sure there is a whole lot of science between the use of a solid conductor & a stranded conductor flux can be picked up cheaply in plumbing section @ Home Depot ... just don't leave the lid off for over a day

whoa sorry to hear about your difficulty but glad you were able to post. will be looking for good news in this thread with thoughts & prayers heading your way I don't do facebook sorry

I was talking about this the other day and glad you can make it happen ... I hadn't been to "a show" yet. it'd be a great excuse for vacation plans

I posted earlier and was excited to see the atari2800man's 5200 kiosk parts , he generously showed his other unique retro device first that I had never heard of. I believe he has extended himself as a friend to the community and hope he finds more cool stuff to share

I ferformed the brain surgury as pictured in first post , the colors of the wires were different in mine originally before mod after mod I got it to work a few times after cleaning the cart adapter & tried burnishing the slots but now acts like no cart installed at all the question I have is should I replace all the 40 year old capacitors ?

there is a "power mod" that can be done but I have never tried it myself my switchbox clicks as you have said ... had to put my ear right on the thing ... I'm supposing you get no red LED on the console now also I recall needing to clean the barrel that would plug into back of TV , I used 90 % rubbing alcohol ... I use the same stuff on cart edge connectors & while wet I slip in & out of console to clean the cart slot the 5200 it definatly a collectors system to be tinkered with ... I hope you get it going

most awesome , very well done IMO

I have a 4 port model with the switchbox I lost picture for awhile & discovered it must have been a dirty cart slot .... could also be a bad game cart I'm using it on an old CRT as well , I'm not sure if your on a newer TV or not I believe there is a channel selector on the switchbox & mine only works on channel 3 oh it says "standby" & "normal" .... ONLY works on "normal"

what time tomorrow .... exactly .... /me sits @ edge of seat with baited breath

Pinball Wizard arcade in Pelham NH. has a LOT of fighters http://www.pinballwizardarcade.com/ about 26 minutes in of this video is "fighter row"

neat, lookin' forward to pics

those look like paper labels & would indeed be difficult to remove intact ... if no screw under there would no need to remove label http://atariage.com/forums/topic/25847-how-do-you-open-up-a-2600-cart/?p=287508 http://atariage.com/forums/topic/184059-dismantle-a-2600-cart/?p=2312125 it's possible the proto's are "real" & were housed in carts for tangibility / play ability

get some common production titles of similar brand ... practice on those if you feel the need to open them most times you can post pics here & can get a good idea of authenticity & whatnot it is a very interesting part of the hobby , if you can give screenshots of game on a TV screen would help too

link I provided in my 3'rd post is great for how to take care of jittery paddles ( which unfortunately is quite normal for 40 year old devices ) some game variation on Pong Sports will "whammy" the ball .... others will speed up the ball on paddle hit ( again a link to instructions above ) you really need a pair of driving controls & another player to really have fun with Indy 500 ( although there are single player variations) , "tag" is one of my favorites it was the only commercially produced game to use them controllers , .... if you get a Harmony cart, there are some great "driving controller hacks" glad your making progress on them paddles

Indy 500 uses "driving controllers" (that look like paddles) Pong Sports (same as "Video Olympics ") should work ok ... as alex_79 said ...try starting game with reset button on console also select a game with 4 players & try both controller ports

I believe it actually 2.5mm ... smaller than the battery eliminator plug , be best to have the sample with you when @ the store

I wonder if the barrels inside male DB9 at the end of the cables on controllers are not making a good ground contact or something .... not even the button works ?