chas10e

did you try cleaning all the carts ? https://atariage.com/howto/clean_cartridges.html usually just a black screen with dirty contacts I dunno if NTSC carts work on a PAL unit or not .... might get a screen roll but not sure

Shot ya a PM with an '87 grey Basketball printed in Hong Kong ( not listed on your sight )

I enjoy "Rebound" on my c-380. I think I recall the same video which was a very good one about the console. I can only speculate that the video was getting lengthy and "Rebound" isn't a very intuitive game at first it was easy to just move on. I can also only speculate that if it was called "Basketball" it may have been easier to figure out what to do. Being a single player game probably had an effect on the title of the game. ... ok I just watched the video again: The player stated he had to reshoot the portion and it simply didn't enjoy playing it himself

I scanned the manual and this seem like a good place for it. coleco combat model 6065 1977.pdf

Got some filler materials for my Gatefold collection. was double packaged in cardboard to keep them in nice shape and arrived quickly. I am pleased with the transaction

A good stash indeed was able to further complete a specific portion of my collection with some filler material. Thank you

shot ya' a PM

Prolly a good time to get a Harmony Encore I don't code so I dunno all the nuances of the different systems so you might wind up wanting to get them all :D

The dome contacts inside may have flattened/weakened ... if you do remove the board take pics for the color code of existing wires from what I remember they are printed wrong on the board

To properly open one of these you need to remove the left handle grip ( hair dryer to heat and expand it slightly as it is quite difficult the first time ) Yeah it's a regular potentiometer, the spring for the throttle is wrapped around the shaft for the right handle. Did yours go back together ok ? I'd still like to know a source for the Vectrex potentiometers

WOW what a great upgrade for the good-ole' cx-40 I knew I had at least a couple less than 100% reliable sticks around and wanted to give these a try. First I grabbed a stick I had been moving around in a box that I have no idea where I got it (or why) plugged in Missile Command and the stick mostly worked as it was but was a bit sluggish so I knew I had a good candidate. first almost lost the spring for the button (forgot there was one there) inspected the nubs on the button and the handle (original "un-reinforced") along with the pivot pin on the bottom base of the controller and all was intact The imprinted color code was very helpful and fortunately the crimped connectors were still in good shape. fitted it all togeather & saw the wires were directly across one of the screw holes ( I have learned to look for such a thing ) opened it up and the button & spring hit the floor but was an easy retrieval. Finally all fitted together. Usually I give 'em a quick test. With Missile Command still in, great for testing joysticks I started to play and after a couple waves I DIDN"T WANT TO PUT IT DOWN to move on to another thing until the game was done. Eventually I had another board to install but which controller ? ( I had 3 others readily available ) 2 worked pretty ok & the 3'rd worked but it was a real effort to get the reticle on the screen to move and one hand working against the other I could feel the carpel tunnel want to set-in. so that was my 2'nd candidate. After reassembly giving it a test I realized there was really almost no pressure needed of one hand working against the other to move or fire. When I first opened the package I pressed one of the switches with my fingers & didn't seem "clicky" but when installed inside the controller it was quite "clicky" I had some clear footies I installed afterwards so I could easily identify by sight what controller has these boards in.

With all the carzyness I missed that these were in stock .... just ordered a pair thanks \o/

ideally disassembling the pots and cleaning with rubbing alcohol the additional challenge with most of the pong consoles is the pots are soldered directly to the circuit board and to open the shell there is a Holt type security screw. Also the first time removing the knobs is kinda tough ... a hair dryer to expand the knob on the shaft is helpful Having said all this ... I have gotten rid of jitters on pong consoles by vigorously moving the knob back and forth within the range of motion on the screen. the pots in these early units have a carbon contact that slides over the resistive plate. moving them back and forth kind of resurfaces that contact

wait til' you get your first pinball machine

no I didn't snag any ... I don't have any Best-Gold either. I'm not in any rush to get 'em but they look pretty impressive

I'd spring for a pair ... if that helps gauge interest :)

he is asking if it's in a common Atari shell ... a real one would be in a light blue "tee-handled" shell https://atariage.com/software_page.php?SoftwareLabelID=972

well, there's somebodys next homebrew title :)

Now that the Holidays are almost all behind us, post your progress on repairs. do you get anything on the screen ?

the c-380 uses the same exact power supply as the Atari 2600 http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/power guide.htm

this manual http://www.robotsandcomputers.com/computers/manuals/atari2600_fsm.pdf the silkscreen on page 2-6 lists that part as "L102" described on page 8-2 as an "inductor 15 uH" https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Inductors-Chokes-Coils/Fixed-Inductors/_/N-wpcz?P=1z0wrhuZ1z0wqaw I'm guessing that is a "light sixer" console you have ? why do you think it may be that part ?

Combat, I'd say is my favorite game. It is hard at times to get a 2'nd player so I bring my Atari to family gatherings & try to get a game in or two. The "short play time" affords the opportunity to try and play all 27 levels in one-go. (28 times actually; to swap controllers for the "bomber vs 3 bi-planes") this also affords the opportunity to really experience the hand cramping we all remember wrenching on the joysticks :P In the Atari "Log book"(s) http://www.atarimania.com/catalog-atari-atari-usa-_153_2.html & http://www.atarimania.com/catalog-atari-atari-usa-co18262-rev-1_95_2.html there IS a challenge for a single player to shoot as many enemy drone planes in the time allowed. game 15, difficulty on "b" a great review for a great game and I lernt something new about "Kee games" \o/

I don't necessarily think the size of the paddles/drivers are the issue. I would think in the heat of the gameplay the tightening of the grip on the paddles is where the fatigue of extended play comes in. you could try building a base to hold the controller, full sized steering wheels would be cool as well.

yup "driving controllers" https://atariage.com/controller_page.php?SystemID=2600&ControllerID=3 it's a great 2 player game, especially "tag" & "Crash n' Score" IMO

I think this is the exact copy with "the story"