chas10e

on the outside of that RCA connector in the image ... there is a slight corrosion it appears .. possible on the inside of the cable you replaced as well ... some rubbing alchohol aught to remove it ... twisting the cable as it's plugged in may help remove the scaling as well ... the chicklet peices are probably some ceramic that busted off insulating the two wires ... (holding the inner shell that moves around) the newer RCA cable doesn't seem to fit right 'cause the strain releif is a lot longer than the stock cable ... bending it over should be ok they aught to have a new RCA jack at an electronics store locally like Radio Shack ... I don't think that Part is on Best Electronics Web site .. I believe the part # is 79-5903 called "2600 /2600a P.C. Mount Female RCA Phono Jack" ... $0.50 ... @ Best you need a $20.00 minimum order so try Radio Shack first the guy behind the counter may be glad to solder it in there for you if things are slow

/me tries http://gameplayerspecial.com/wp/repairing-and-replacing-the-flat-cable-from-the-atari-800-computer-keyboard/

well I tried my CX-80 on my 7800 ... the only Centipede I have is for the 2600 .... the trak ball work for the 2600 v of Centipede ... the fire buttons DON"T at all work for dual fire games that I have for 7800 , I tried Choplifter & Xenophobe it would seem the trak ball would indeed need to be modded , the ebay price is kinda steep IMO , but he did make a custom box of sorts for it. might not be as straight forward as I hoped it would be ... http://atariage.com/forums/topic/93812-modifying-a-trak-ball-to-simulate-a-pro-line/?do=findComment&comment=1139417

I belive Best Electronics still has the CX-80 Trak balls for twelve + shipping ... you'd need a $20.00 minimum order I don't see it on their web site, but the savings would be worth the telephone call !!!

when I found it on the shelf @ game store ... it preserved the other packages for me .... sorry for the confusion

holy old thread Batman ... 2005 ... thanks I did suppose it wasn't the right outer box but that box housed 3 total ( 11 Indy 500 , 02 Air Sea Battle & 51 Blackjack) looks like I'm looking for 2 1/3 items now

I just received two more today, 03 Star Ship & 41 Surround ... boxes pretty rough no manuals or other packing materials came but the spline looks to be in good shape & displays nicely on the shelf I had the correct manual & other packing material to complete 03 Star Ship (the 2'nd game I ever owned next to 01 combat) does anyone know ... in 11 Indy 500 1, is that the correct big box ? ( no #11 on the side) ... I can produce more pics of the back if need be ... 2. was there a small box inside for the paddles ? personally I wouldn't sell the 61 Basic Math package as it would be something that would help complete my collection (I only have 2 more packages to go ) also personally I wouldn't pay the premium for this title ... (well @ the time of this post anyways) I'm looking for that great find the OP made perusing through a pile of who knows what else ... the thrill is the hunt as well. it was along time ago for me also getting these when they were new ... I do recall locked display cases in Sears & the cage you brought your ticket to @ Toys R' Us ... Kay Bee Toy also had their stuff way up on top behind counter I heard a solution o determining the contents of a wrapped package was to weigh it ... it's "Basic Math" no there would be no point really to slip an ET cart in there

I've been thinking on the shrink-wrap thing when handling my 01 combat .... what kept the flap from opening up in store & contents falling out ? the literature is pretty snug , but the cart is fairly loose ... was there a dab of that rubber cement or something ?

That's a great find & gives me encouragement ... I recently picked up an 11 Indy 500 big box ... the paddles weren't inside but two more gatefold boxes I was looking for were !!!! both paddles were out in the back in a plastic tub with a bunch more controllers I picked up a couple of dupe gatefold boxes as well 01Combat & 21 Video Olympics are my dupes ... they were in a little better condition than the one's I had ... #21 is still a bit rough thanks that's good information to know any word on revised manuals ? means OP can open it up to see all inside & even play the game \o/ ... mebbe some Hex discs in there

I was shipped a Kangaroo cart with some other stuff that the innards of the plastic case was broken, I used the Asteroids case for a replacement. Removing the labels with a hair dryer & re-applying them with Elmer's Rubber Cement worked well. on the case: I used WD-40 to remove the old glue then Rubbing alcohol to remove the WD-40 residue ... I didn't use anything on back of Kangaroo label to remove any old adhesive & a few bumps show but an overall success. Steeplechase: The above experience with the label enabled me to feel comfortable dis-assembling the Steeplechase cart. On the IC chip it's very difficult to take a picture of some kind of carbon deposit on the leads that solder into the board. I scraped 6'th from left off to help distinguish how much. I haven't as of yet removed the sheilding over the chip to see if other side is the same. I already have a replacement cart to complete the package shown. the old label is on Wax paper inside that frame in image my soldering skills have improved. I de-soldered the Asteroids chip & would be able to solder it back in ( prolly took me 3 days though ) I have had some other dead carts also: Q-tipping worked on most: I have a Yars Revenge cart with the lamination is bubbled on the board I have an Enduro cart that I dis-assembled 1: because label need to be re-applied anyways & 2: the contacts were heavily waxed with something I couldn't see til I saw outside of cart ... Wright's Copper Cream worked on that. I may have to try that with a Seaquest cart ... Seaquest works if I have it a little cockeyed in the console ( not fully seated ) how do I know if IC chip is bad on Steeplechase aside from visible inspection ? black screen only usually mean dead chip? color banded screen mean it's possible to recover ?

some games have cut screens ... one example is Ms Pac-Man that I just got & played for first time ... just so image doesn't get burned into TV Screen ... I dunno if "screensaver" is the correct term or not That must be what it is ... I noticed a missing block (or invisable) & didn't think much of it when I got to levels that included white blocks. so it wasn't a "bug" it happened by design ... I was playin bouncy heartbreak when I discovered it ... discovery is half the fun of this game

I'm playing on a PC with Stella. somehow I missed looking @ the special options so both difficulty switches would be "novice" or the "b" setting I need to get some sleep , I reached 20,000 on bouncy heartbreak (yellow heart option) and I enjoy it very much I like the color changes on the hearts on title screen to denote different levels I like the bouncy heartbreak over standard as you don't have to launch the ball for every broken brick ... keeping the ball in play & trying to determine if that color ball will change or eliminate the brick it's heading for is cool. next time I will try the left "pro" or "a" setting ( gatta figure out how in Stella but will be easy ) the right difficulty I would leave the heartbeat on "b" ... during gameplay it doesn't sound monotonous ... with Stella I have to hit [alt+tab] to switch to another window usually chat ... the heartbeat still playing in the backround bekons me to come back & play ( I get distracted easy ) if I was playing on my television & walked away I would be concerned about the image getting burned into it as I see no "screen saver" one bug I experienced ... only with yellow ball ... with no yellow affected blocks remaining ... I will get a raspberry sound & assuming a penalty on the 3 strikes rule if I allow the ball to miss the remaining blocks. or mebbe it's supposed to do that ... ( doesn't seem to do that for red or blue ) I do not write any code , strictly an end user. this is the first homebrew game that I played, the number of the others seemed overwelming to play as is the carts I already have. tinkering with this game a bit does make me desire to get a Harmony cartridge so I could play with the actual controllers in question. will have to report back on lvls 3 & 4 in the future. inverted heartbreak thanks to Cybearg & all who helped get this project of his to this point ( I haven't read entire post . I came across this title via chat room where it's quite occasionally mentioned) chas10e

I'm testing this copy out like we discussed (wink-wink) I'm remembering some of theses titles .... it's in working order shoot me a PM

lookin' into one ... may be a few days

I just made my own screwdriver for this I hope it helps: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/208849-holt-security-screw-removal-sears-pong-sega-ea-carts/

nothing like opening an old topic. I just made my own screwdriver. this post made it all possible. http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/208849-holt-security-screw-removal-sears-pong-sega-ea-carts/

I recently acquired a Dedicated Super Pong IV system & needed to open it up. the screw in the battery compartment I discovered from reading these forums is called a "Holt" brand security screw I happened to be placing an order with Best Electronics & they have never carried a screwdriver or security tip to remove this little bugger E-bay has one for $19.99, but a little pricy for my needs! http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F3-Prong-Security-Bit-HOLT-6-Open-USA-Stock-%2F380339786487%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem588e0492f7 so I made my own & took some pics: Items I used: 3 paperclips an electrical wire-nut (with spring inside) a ballpoint pen electrical tape Tools I used: needle nose pliers with cutters 1/8" drill bit in a Dremel tool I drilled a hole in the top end of the wire-nut straightened the 3 paperclips and as evenly as I could twisted them into the wire-nut so they would protrude through the top end I drilled probably protruding an 1/8" I used an electrical wire-nut because, 1. I have plenty of them around & 2. the spring inside would hold the paperclips firmly I used paperclips because 1. I have plenty of them around & 2. they are less pliable than copper wire so they will hold up better trial & error one wire-nut was used & spring inside to loose , another was new & paperclips twisted & broke before protruding though end I drilled. I emptied the ball point pen to tape to wire-nut so I wouldn't get stabbed buy cut ends of paperclip from bottom of wire-nut & gave me a bit of something to hold on to. when pressing down to loosen the screw in the console, it seemed to form itself to fit better on the screw The first image is actually the one I made to work on Sega Genesis EA carts with a similar Holt type security screw ( different size it appears ) the tines on the tip I made need to protrude out far enough to reach the screw that is recessed into the cartridge I was able to re-install the all screws as well as remove them: on the Pong console I wanted to maintain the integrity of a classic console on the Sega cart ... just to see if it could be done. ... I discovered to was easier removing than replaceing you'll want to make sure it's seated all the way in. I hope this helps: chas10e

"Related Titles" link in game descriptions comes in handy every now and again I just noticed the "Related Titles" cross-links missing for both games Atari "Slot Racers" Sears "Maze" ( I always assumed the sears "maze"title was another game) Atari "Maze Craze" Sears "Maze Mania" those are Related Titles and each are properly cross linked

wow, I didn't really know there was actually a member feedback forum ... bought some 2600 stuff that is really fun to play ... Dave gave recommendations on how to make a smooth transaction, items came quick & exactly as advertized at a reasonable price.

I have the mis-printed 7800 version of Tomcat ... I'm waiting to hear back on the 2600 version. I'll shoot a PM

yeah that was solder splatter that came off the end of my iron as I was reaching to clean it off .... wasn't there when I started project I wished I took a before photo ... also next time I'll try & crop them before hosting

heh got 'em & they are fantastic very good experiance as a newcomer to Atariage Thanks

TRIPLE POST ??? yikes being newto these forums I hope that's ok: ( I don't see an edit button ) also i said I was going to post some images so I have to give that a try: I'm not at all proud of the work ... the cart has failed (black screen) for better or worse here it is (flaming to a minimum please) inexperience with the desoldering tool ( looks like a soldering gun with a bulb on top) caused most of the overheating I believe ... tiredness& bad eyesight a contributing factor the spool of solder I was using originally has no markings on the label to indicate its size & flux ratio ... all it says is that is is "lead free" basically .... I wished I looked at size when I was loking at other spools I bought some helping hands with a magnifying glass attached, a new spool of solder 60/40 rosin core .032" diameter (has lead I imagine) & some desoldering braid to say I didn't care about my Asteroids cart wouldn't be true (to look at it you might not think so) I did get to see it power up for just a short bit though ... so some more questions: can I use a continuity meter to determine if there is continuity from the contacts to the EPROM ? ( or both sides of the board before the EPROM) for a cartridge of a higher rarity value what sort of place would I take it to to be "professionally re-flowed" should my skills not improve ? I do appreciate your time & input and a bit embarrassed about the pics

double post ? ... I'll figure this place out I hope .... went & got corded irons ... 7 bucks @ sears for 30w ... & 12.99 @ Radioshack for desolder-iron ... I had some solder & it seemed quite expensive to just snag another roll ... the solder I have just says "lead free Rosin Core ... fairly small , maybe the size of pencil-lead .... at first it seemed to work , initial start-up the screen rolled but when I hit reset button the game started .... I played only for a short bit before turning offthen on again then it wouldn't start , got horizontal lines across screen .... Itinkered with re-flowing solder in first row with no change , filled other holes previously that didn't seem to be filled from factory with no change , I tried other console , no change I wished I took before phot'o's .... I don't really wanna take after photos as the job doesn't look to neat .... I don't think I bridged anything .... yeah the whole point of the exercise is the get comfortable soldering , Asteroids , being a great game , is common & I have a repllacement already ( & I think a cib on the way ) the de-soldering tool is tricky ... whats the reasoning behind ... re-flowing adding solder then removing it all ? ... I probably only needed to re-flow a bit & add a bit I guess ... OOPSIES I'll rince recycle -repeat tomorrow perhaps .... my eyes are bugging out I did try a reflow on the EPROM pins without removing any solder , again I don't think anything was bridges unless between the green film somehow ( is that possible ? ) if you desire pics of some gorrilla soldering , lemme know I'll just have to figure out the BB-code for these forums

I'm tottaly going to Radio Shack .... that desoldering thing looks pretty awesome ... I do have a desoldering bulb .... I never tried wick I JUST lite the thing up when I read that .... good for use when your a million miles away from some power .... k , off to teh store ... prolly grab a sammich too