chas10e

yeah the center rectangle. after you hit the right lane it starts the sequence for the center target , when it does register good I can usually get the right gate open by timing the shot then also getting the bonus multiplier afterwards I like the sound package this game has

wasn't my Mod: but was designed to put it back to origonal , the target is in the bottom of the box still. yeah I'm getting better at "ball control" and this is a great table to do it on my center "death target" isn't always reliable but you need to hit that that the correct time open the right out-lane gate, you'll notice it's forever open in the PAPA video

heh I got the same table , it had been modified so instead of a stand-up target on the right there is a roll-over button & a channel that is under the plastic there sending the ball into the pops ... the mod can easily be reverted back to origonal

what pin you get ?

have you opened the pots to clean them ? http://atariage.com/forums/topic/184296-slowcoders-guide-to-cleaning-up-your-2600/?p=2316794 don't use dielectric grease if there is a carbon contact

Page #4 of the manual describes how to store the controller. proper play should keep it in good shape. don't spike the thing into the ground during heated play http://www.videogameconsolelibrary.com/images/Manuals/82_GCE_Vectrex_Owner_Manual.pdf

actually the chatroom here was really good IMO

the one with the date code of '84 had to be from their pre-release models. http://atariage.com/7800/history.html I think some of them cordless phones used the same connector type ... the ones with the really long antennas ... or mebbe it was a shaver , I wished I knew the name of the connector type

yeah pic a bit blurry , reads like "Made in Singapore" perhaps

I got a 4'th one: came with system I got at a thrift (no expansion port)

great play tips I need to use these on classic Bally tables some try to "nine the score" all nines on the display by either calculating bonus & draining the ball intentionally or tilting I hate when ball goes between the right flippers

hard enough to make it fun ... I hadn't got one but I had seen then on ebay

the game center I have simply has a 3 foot single lamp florescent light strip in it. the light strip has a very long grounded rubber cord on it ( I'm guessing 12 feet) if I leave the thing on all day it does get pretty warm and I think there is a thermal switch that cuts out. the cord end slips through a hole similar to what you have in the back LED's, cord & plug might be a good way to go

if there is an absolute need to open prolly best only to punch through the 2 screws , if it is a cib game you have a slight chance of the paper label side not separating from the adhesive side

Smurf is a coleco game ... if a loose copy that label will disintegrate ... writes copper cream is at walmart or any grocery store me thinks

maybe some paper & crayons to make your own overlays together

any atari keypad will work http://atariage.com/controller_list.php?SystemID=2600

rubbing alcohol isn't an abrasive cleaner like "Wrights copper clean" that's usually my next step before opening a cart I clean the residue of that with rubbing alchohol. with my Missile Command cart for example , a hair dryer and some patience I can get labels off nicely , usually store on wax paper and Elmers rubber cement put's 'em back. after opening a cart you can get a better look at the contacts and really put some elbow grease. a low percentage of carts go dead for me. and equally a low number gets recovered but trying is half the fun did bring a couple back

yup that's a heavy sixer , the CX-10 joystick doesn't say "top" like your cx-40 it creaks and groans and is awesome also I see you have fuji labeled paddles which are nice & the gatefold Combat as for the firing issue , my guess would be the 4050 hex buffer chip

I got my imager & the foam was sticky - gooey ... I used tape inside-out like a lint remover to get rid of the grossness, worked great there was a member here who tried to reproduce them and after much difficulty scrapped the project. I could use mebbe a couple of spares from Madtronix when available