tempusfugit

Well now I did it.. lol I resoldered the broken solder join on the cap, put everything back together, went to test it, and now I'm getting nothing, not even the black screen.. I think I probably damaged the ribbon connector.. After work I'll check it out and reseat all the cables, but it looks like I'll probably end up doing the mod for changing out the ribbon cable to regular cable.. Can't wait to break open the main board rf shield/sarcophagus

Thanks, I'm guessing in my picture the 2 on the bottom are supposed to be bridged, they look like they were done that way and are fully bridged. The 3 on the right aren't fully bridged and look like the "hairs" eventually connected.. the highest one up is the cap solder joint, if you zoom you can see the lead and black gaps around it. I'll try just fixing cap and report back

So are you guys saying there is no negative effect from bridged diodes? I know it may not be causing the black screen, but if I'm refurbing this thing should I unbridge them or no?

interesting... alright.. the 5 pin header where the ribbon connector plugs in or that goes out to the transformer and power switch? And I'm assuming I plug it in, and put black in one hole and test the other 4 with red?

I'm not an electrician, but I know how to solder and have access to a multimeter. Can anyone tell me what the black and silver/copper and silver things on the power supply are? Are they fuses? And possibly how to test them as well as the big caps? I'm guessing if they were all bridged like that and had me turn it on about a thousand times testing they might not be good anymore? These are all the points that are bridged -

would buying one of the carts you mentioned be the best bet for troubleshooting this?? lock n chase and he man aren't too expensive on ebay. I pulled the power supply and I think it might be my issue.. there are a lot of bridged solder points on the back. 5 of the resistors(i think.. not color coded, the black and silver/clear and copper horizontally mounted little things) are bridged(10 points) and the 2200 mf 25v cap needs one side resoldered. On monday I'm going to clean up all the solder work and if that doesn't work I'll look into picking up a copy of he-man.

Unfortunately I have none of those..

couple more things, when cleaning the power switch and trying it out, I noticed if I press down on the power switch while it is on it reduces the static noise during the black screen.. From reading online I think my next step either involves the power switch, or popping off that massive rf shield and reseating any chips I can get to. All the caps on the power board look fine, If I can't get it figured out over the weekend, I'll bring it in to work and test them on the multimeter and pop off the rf shield and see about reseating the chips.

I recently picked up an intellivision with 8 games at a swap meet. It came with the video out cable, but the rf switch was broken. So far I have tried - cleaning contacts on system cleaning contacts on game opening up and cleaning power switch opened up controllers and they look pretty clean switching between ch 3 and 4 atari rf switch sega rf adapter nes rf adapter and lastly I just bought an adapter like this - http://www.amazon.com/Intellivision-Colecovision-Adapter-VINTAGE-WITHOUT/dp/B0028MXOF6 pressing reset, lots barely pushing the game in gently prying the connector pins up to get better contact still black screen on all the games I've tried. I know its powering on and sending some sort of signal, because it switches from static to black screen when i power it on. Is there any other common causes for this that I could try??