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tempusfugit

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Posts posted by tempusfugit


  1. Well now I did it.. lol

     

    I resoldered the broken solder join on the cap, put everything back together, went to test it, and now I'm getting nothing, not even the black screen.. I think I probably damaged the ribbon connector.. After work I'll check it out and reseat all the cables, but it looks like I'll probably end up doing the mod for changing out the ribbon cable to regular cable.. Can't wait to break open the main board rf shield/sarcophagus :-o


  2. Thanks, I'm guessing in my picture the 2 on the bottom are supposed to be bridged, they look like they were done that way and are fully bridged. The 3 on the right aren't fully bridged and look like the "hairs" eventually connected.. the highest one up is the cap solder joint, if you zoom you can see the lead and black gaps around it.

     

    I'll try just fixing cap and report back


  3. Joined solder isn't a problem f they are connected by a trace

    ok those little things are diodes not resistors. bridging not uncommon linking them together.

     

    So are you guys saying there is no negative effect from bridged diodes? I know it may not be causing the black screen, but if I'm refurbing this thing should I unbridge them or no?


  4. Joined solder isn't a problem if they are connected by a trace. I would suggest the first thing to do is get a multimeter and check the voltages on the 5 pin header. Then check the fragile ribbon cable for continuity. Missing voltage on this cable can cause black screen. Continuity check on a multimeter can help you check suspicious cracked or bad solder on the power supply.

     

    interesting... alright.. the 5 pin header where the ribbon connector plugs in or that goes out to the transformer and power switch? And I'm assuming I plug it in, and put black in one hole and test the other 4 with red?


  5. I'm not an electrician, but I know how to solder and have access to a multimeter.

     

    Can anyone tell me what the black and silver/copper and silver things on the power supply are? Are they fuses? And possibly how to test them as well as the big caps? I'm guessing if they were all bridged like that and had me turn it on about a thousand times testing they might not be good anymore?

     

     

    These are all the points that are bridged -

     

    5eeda626-539f-4a21-a795-ab904a4802f3_zps1d83a0c9.jpg


  6. There is some others that can, but they would require that there isn't a problem with the controller or the input from the console/controller to do so. If there isnt a problem there, Lock 'n Chase would work fine there.

     

    would buying one of the carts you mentioned be the best bet for troubleshooting this?? lock n chase and he man aren't too expensive on ebay.

     

    I pulled the power supply and I think it might be my issue.. there are a lot of bridged solder points on the back. 5 of the resistors(i think.. not color coded, the black and silver/clear and copper horizontally mounted little things) are bridged(10 points) and the 2200 mf 25v cap needs one side resoldered.

     

    On monday I'm going to clean up all the solder work and if that doesn't work I'll look into picking up a copy of he-man.


  7. if you have either Pinball, He-Man, or Thunder Castle, try those and see if you get any audio coming from the system. (On pinball's case, you'll have to wait about 30-45 seconds without touching anything on the controller before it plays itself and causes audio), He-Man and ThunderCastle have audio on their title screens.

     

    This would allow you to know if it's just a video problem, or a more drastic issue.

     

    Unfortunately I have none of those..


  8. couple more things, when cleaning the power switch and trying it out, I noticed if I press down on the power switch while it is on it reduces the static noise during the black screen.. From reading online I think my next step either involves the power switch, or popping off that massive rf shield and reseating any chips I can get to.

     

    All the caps on the power board look fine, If I can't get it figured out over the weekend, I'll bring it in to work and test them on the multimeter and pop off the rf shield and see about reseating the chips.


  9. I recently picked up an intellivision with 8 games at a swap meet. It came with the video out cable, but the rf switch was broken.

     

    So far I have tried -

     

    cleaning contacts on system

    cleaning contacts on game

    opening up and cleaning power switch

    opened up controllers and they look pretty clean

     

    switching between ch 3 and 4

    atari rf switch

    sega rf adapter

    nes rf adapter

    and lastly I just bought an adapter like this - http://www.amazon.com/Intellivision-Colecovision-Adapter-VINTAGE-WITHOUT/dp/B0028MXOF6

    pressing reset, lots

    barely pushing the game in

    gently prying the connector pins up to get better contact

     

    still black screen on all the games I've tried. I know its powering on and sending some sort of signal, because it switches from static to black screen when i power it on.

     

    Is there any other common causes for this that I could try??

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