Osgeld

the buttons were not that hard, but yet yes they were hard the first one came out perfect, the second one I went one twist too far which meant it sat lower, so I had to go back and twist the first one one extra twist to keep them level, BUT now if you flip it over they flop forward and rattle ... just in-case you ever play upside down. Really though this guy with a hand drill was able to hit it, the thing I dont like a bout the tact switches is that after playing a game, clicking down on those now hard buttons wears you out as far as a super advantage, I dont see why not, BUT given the reason above you might want to look into cutting the rubber dome contacts up to add a little cushion for the pushin

AMD Athlon XP 2800+ Barton core, 2.25Ghz 32 bit 2.5 GB DDR1 400 ram Gigabyte GA-7VT600 ATX mainboard (2x IDE, 1x floppy, 2x SATA 1, USB2, FIREWIRE, AGP8x, VIA Chipset) Gigabyte GV-R925128T (ATI 9250 -128mb, 8xAGP, DX8) Dont want much, just needs to find a home, make offer keep shipping in mind US only please

the solution I have found was a old radio shack video mixer, which allows me to plug in two devices over composite and stereo jacks, once attached I have full control over brightness, contrast, saturation, sharpness etc with analog knobs meaning any system I plug into my video capture device can get optimal picture quality without having to fuss over "well it looks fine on the tv but the caputre sucks, or whatever"

its a spinning mirror setup, maybe it just gunks up and stalls?

when they first came out sure, but by 99 I got a 15 inch flat screen crt toshiba with 3 composite inputs, 2 svideo inputs, 2 rf inputs and built in stereo for like 200 bucks at best buy these things always seemed like large dinasaurs with a meh screen and a heavy price, never was sold on it

Part 2: Installing the famiclone into the NES ADVANTAGE I originally picked up two units from the goodwill store, a superjoy and a power joy, the power joy I could not get working and I assume it needed a cart as there was no on board rom. Accounts from the interweb seem to indicate that it may or may not have a rom onboard. The superjoy III fired right up with a little bit of wiggling on the video connection. The common failure point on these poorly designed things is the RCA jack solder cracking or the trace lifting ... I had both, no matter though, the powerjoy resolved that problem with a 2m long cable which broke out to a power jack, along with a video and audio jack, which I used so now I dont need to dig up cables, or worry about plugging 3 wires into the back of the NES ADVANTAGE. Opening up the superjoy 3 I was greeted with two main PCB's (and a third holding the 9 pin player 2 port). The first PCB was the main board, containing the NOAC, ROM, power regulation, and a Famicom cart port. The second board contained the controller contact pads, a chip-on-board bonded shift register that behaved exactly like what the NES uses for its controllers, and the connections to the outside world. Since I do not need a dumb connector board anymore, nor a controller it was safe to remove, though the ribbon cable connecting the two boards was a bit of a mystery. Once I peeled off the hot glue support I found that whoever laid out the PCB was kind enough to label the connections on the silk screen, 9v, sound, video, reset, 5 volts out to the shift register, ground. the SPI pins were listed a little funny but with my scope it turned out to be latch, clock, data. How power was being converted from 9v to 5 volts was a bit of a mistery as well until I probed it. The power joy uses a standard 3 pin 7805, this joker uses a transistor and a zener diode to regulate. The 5 volt zener diode is what actually does the regulation, but of course since its a tiny MLF part (yuck) its going to maybe handle a quarter watt of power. So what they did is attach it to a transistor's base so its not fully saturated, but not fully off, giving a roughly 5 volt reference letting all the current pass though the much stronger transistor. This is pretty crappy, but its not unheard of, BUT this thing is already getting kind of hot just powering the mainboard, and now I have to power 555 timers for the ADVANTAGE's turbo and slo-mo effects + two LED's. so this was not going to do. Also the video/audio/power cable has a 0.1 pitch connector on the end so I whipped up a little board that the video cable could plug into along with a 7805 voltage regulator to handle all the load. After that, there's just a couple holes to drill for reset and a power switch, wire the controller to the mainboard (both are SPI, no biggie) and attach the PCB's to the case. I used 3M double sided tape pads.. these things once bonded will be strong enough that if you wish to remove them, you might end up breaking the PCB, I have some VHB stuff that is rated to replace aluminum rivets, but that's just overkill. little hot glue to tidy up the wires and bam, I am playing kung-fu!

guess I should finish the writeup

DX ball is well worth a try, one of my top breakout clones of all time

all I can say is good luck, being that specific about a 11 year old video card that was from a not all that popular model line is a pretty tall order.

its just a standard type of thing for its time, and if I had to guess on where design influence came from, it would be HP where WOZ was far more involved

not right now but I can make some and post them tomorrow

its fine, the power is regulated inside the genny, the main thing is the more voltage in means the regulator has to drop more voltage, which produces more heat, but 1 volt is not a significant difference. Voltage is very important, to digital circuitry, which is why they regulate it, as your typical chunk of iron transformer based wall wart will float up and down depending on what the mains line is doing, and how much load is on it, infact if you measured it with nothing plugged into it, you would probably read 12-13 volts on the 9 volt transformer.

somewhere round 5 bucks probably, they are kind of small, bout a half inch in diameter

the second part of that story is they did what ol STEVE wanted, and there was a bunch of problems due to crosstalk and capacitance, making the memory system unstable and slower http://www.folklore....er=Sort by Date esthetics do not make for good electrical engineering, physics does not minic artistic vision I suggest anyone interested in macintosh development read that entire site, its a great history and insight from the people who lived it PS: never underestimate the power of zip ties and self stick zip tie anchors

I have a bag of snap action switches with fairly short throws, they have a screw thread on them but I have no nuts (he he) I will give you some if you want to pay for postage

looks slick (though the insides look like a spaghetti monster, who cares its on the inside)

pm sent

go price them on radio shack, they want 20-30 for a generic one so 15 bucks for a real deal ... maybe

probably put the entire phone in a nomad

along with a large chunk of large applications like wordstar, dbase, and autocad appeared on these 8008 / S100 CPM machines (altair being the daddy of the platform)

according to the first site I googled the gen 3 needs 10 volts 300 ma, considering the first thing it will hit is a 7805 it might work in regards to voltage (depending on what reverse polarity protection is installed in the machine) and has plenty of current. current is safe as the system will only take what it needs from the power supply's potential, but you are really close to the low end on the voltage.

something blew the fuse in the first place

disclaimer, don't be retarded with your toothbrush

in the apple II world people just record the tapes on their computer and load then via sound card, mp3 player, or phone works rather well (keeping in mind the fussyness of volume and whatnot with any tape system)

I argue the original GB was the worst fail, took as many batteries as my boom box (though smaller) of the day, and had a crappy cream n spinach screen that looked awful in any light and blurred each and every pixel ... like playing mario on a T1000 the only thing the football GBA was missing was a backlight IMO, otherwise the SP had the same screen, just with a frontlight which puked out the colors, and a form factor meaning my 9 year old niece at the time complained it was too small to hold ... and it was dropped frequently