Osgeld
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Posts posted by Osgeld
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what you need is Zterm on the mac, a modem port to de9 adapter and a USB to RS232 adapter for your computer then you can download from one computer to the classic (its slow but better than nothing)
PS: the linux HFS driver works fine, when I got my SE its hard disk was dead along with its floppy disk (800k anyway, pre superdisk model) so I tosseda newer 80meg apple drive in my bench machine with a generic compaq scsi card, loaded up basilisk II and installed the OS though linux though emulator and fired it right up on the mac like nothing
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this does not do ethernet
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what you will get is disk images in apple format, probably packed with stuffit (the worst compression program evea) so you take that, get it into your mac somehow and then it will eventually end up as a folder on your hard disk, or extracted to a floppy in mac format on your mac
the trick is getting from point A to Mac
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do you have another computer with a serial port? what I often do is download on my old beater laptop and use a terminal program on my SE (since its 800k floppy is useless even if it did work) to download from the laptop also running a terminal program (like downloading something from a BBS back in the day)
Also I bet if you slapped a USB floppy drive on that iMac you could make your own floppies since the LCII has a 1.44 mb pc compatible super disk
course none of this does any good without a mouse ... I would give you one but I only have 1 ADB mouse and 3 ADB mac's
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its a coil of wire, usually 2 points are for the magnet wire inside the speaker, and the other two is what you solder on
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In all honesty I never deal with people playing the guessing game, how much do you want for it with the games? how much do you want for a console with a wonky power switch which might require a 20$ + postage repair bill? how much do you want for the games?
there is a lot of if's here and you as the seller need to put your foot down (aside from threats) you have the time and money in this, what do you want out of it for your heartache?
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Yeah good luck with that. Even if you could find an external CD ROM drive and the requisite 8-bit ISA adapter to interface it, that game needed SVGA, something the Model 30 isn't going to do.
odd I spent 5 years playing it in MCGA no probelm, infact it was the default setting .. and yea the model 30-286 was vga unless modified, the 8086 model 30 was MCGA
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Project Advantage:
Goal: Shove a famiclone into a NES Advantage while also improving the action of the Advantage.
On a trip to the Goodwill store near my work I found a POWER JOY III, NES / Famicom TV plug n play emulator, along with another SUPER JOY. After digging though the power supply bin I found AC adapters for both and scurried home. The SUPER JOY was DOA, it booted but was corrupt. The POWER JOY III however fired right up with its "76000" in one ROM with a little wiggling of its RCA jacks (cracked solder lifted copper) .
What struck me about the thing was the controller portion was crap. Sure who knows how many years of abuse mixed in with the mandatory Goodwill policy of dumping everything into a cement mixer filled with water and old shop dirt caused this, but the whole unit was uncomfortable to play, and responded with mental measurable milliseconds worth of delay.
Considering that the 76 ish games (modded 1000x ways getting you a BS 76000games) are mostly arcade style titles(Kung-Fu, Pacman, Galaxian) mixed in with stuff like SMB, Contra, Sports titles and Asian titles, I thought an arcade stick would be in order. And what is the one major arcade stick for NES? yup the NES advantage.
I ordered one online from a game dealer (not by name cause my experience was neither horrid or great) for 6 bucks + postage, when I got it it was marked "tested" but it was funky with a extra ky. It's an old Advantage with yellow stripes where the cord was wrapped around it for decades, and at best got a surface wipedown with some mild cleaner. Three of the rubber feet were squished off position with a nice one inch slug trail of cat/dog hair and dust encrusted snot, foot number four was MIA
Before I tore into the joystick I inspected the mechanics of the thing, I never owned a NES during its hey-day, and all I remember about the advantage was it was a ball of wire sitting off to the side never to be used. I inspected the mechanics of the thing and noticed it had over an inch of joystick throw, and darn near a quarter inch of button depression, and if not struck dead center they would get stuck ... normal complaints of the unit. I decided to see if I could improve its action.
I quickly disassembled it and tossed it's dirty plastics in the kitchen sink with mild dish detergent and hot tap water for a good soak and light scrub.
Meanwhile my focus turned to the joystick, since it had brass inserts I did not want to toss it in a bath, and opted to clean it with a qtip and some isopropyl.
I thought some clickyness would be in order, but, there is no room for proper clicky switches, Instead I took some though hole tactile switches , cut two leads off, and flattened the other two . I then scrapped off the solder mask to the leads going to the original contact pads, its very simple, there is one for each direction and all are linked by a common ground.
Since the switches are only held down by two out of four anchor points, I also dabbed some rubber cement under the switches, strong and sturdy, it will also come off cleanly if a reverse decision is made. The problem I see here is leverage, squash down too hard and crush a switch since you can't feel them actuating . On the plus side the joystick throw is less than an half inch giving quick and accurate movement!
Moving on to the B and A buttons a similar process is done, this time using surface mount tactile switches, they just barely fit onto the scrapped off solder mask, but all four contact points are soldered to the PCB, and if a reverse decision was made, they can be removed.
When test fitting the button PCB, things were just a shade too tight, upon screwing the PCB back down to its case the big orange plastic buttons would depress the tactile switches leaving them in a permanent state of "down" . In order to solve this I looked at the plastic buttons and noticed the center plunger part was too tall. I simply (ha) drilled down 42 mil (0.042 inches) below the outer collar of the button.
The first button came out 100% perfect this leaves the button at its original stance with less than 1/32nd of an inch depression action, the second button I drilled too far. That sucked cause one was higher than the other (I have access to a precision mill, choose to hand drill it with a black n decker in order to save a couple days ). In the end I drilled down to 55 mil and cut off the outer collars with a xacto razor saw, which leaves the buttons all floppy if you flip the unit upside down but otherwise works just fine.
The final mod to the NES Advantage PCB is to replace its standard brightness red LED's with some obnoxious blue ones, whats a mod without obnoxious blue LED's?? So I popped in a couple Cree neon blue LED intended for outdoor sign usage, the original LED's are 3mm with a 2mm diameter light pipe built in, pretty standard stuff if you know what you are looking for, so its reversible.
MORE TO COME
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dig up a cd rom and ply 7th guest hehe
MCGA if it has it, is not that huge of a difference to VGA, most games would just toss some odd color pixels here and there
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Rubber contacts for NES advantage, used but looks to be in decent condition B,A U,D,L,R no start or select, free + postage, US only please
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oh I remember those tanks, um maybe, it should be equipped with VGA so you're good there, but being a 10Mhz 286 it might be slow
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it did on mine, but that was a sony
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I like how oculus rift is a whole new gaming experience, I have had cheap VR helmets in the past, and yea its neat ... for the first couple hours. They are front heavy, give you headaches, and make your neck hurt, people are not investing cause they are bitter old entrenched console warriors, its becuase they have already gone down that path.
here is one of the sets I used to own
they were light weight and sleek, till you hung them off your face and it felt like someone set a bag of potaotes on your nose
an earlier set
were also pretty light, until you hung them on your face, sure technology means they have better than 640x480 resolution, and smaller electronics, but there was hardly any electronics in these things, as a box on your desk did all the heavy work so it more or less kapton flex pcb to LCD screen and headphone wires to speakers. Consumer grade ABS plastic has not gotten less dense and I am just not sold on the entire idea.
but dont let me ruin your fun, its only 300 bucks, thats about 50$ an hour for each one of the two I had, but you know its KICKSTARTER, REVOLUTIONARY AND BOLD!
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yea it sounds like your overloading the amp's input, maybe a resistor in series with the input will help
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no, once I get space for one I may get it, though I do love the engrish in the description
Daily maintenance
1.Keep the drawer. -
I tried it once, it was on a 1.6ghz atom machine with an intel board/chipset that matched perfectly with one of the low end mac's at the time... it was amusing
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problem with the lcII is the ram (it tops out at 10megs though like me you have 12 in it) and lack of newbus, no clue on shipping its not that large or heavy though I will gather info in the morning
the IIGS is a different system totally from the mac, and focuses more on graphics and sound (hince GS), the WDC cpu in it is the 16 bit step up from the 6502 and retains backwards compatibility with the 8 bit machines, and the m68000 in the mac has no idea what a 6502 is
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off topic If you want a LC II I have one I would love to ditch on a sucker enthusiast (its actually a performa 430, but same computer, 10 megs maxed out ram no monitor, kb or mouse, free + shipping)
only good thing about it is it will work with an apple II card, basicly giving you a 68k mac and an 8 bit apple II in the same box
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Graphic OS on the C? Or do I really have to get into the E for practical purposes?yea but have a couple disk drives handy or be prepared to flip them out, again a GUI on II is mostly pointless as everything came self contained as bootable disks (unless you have a hard disk, very rare and not super useful on II series, and except for 1 mysterious model none came out for IIc)
IIc is a enhanced IIe in a compact case
IIc+ is the same with memory expansion and a 4Mhz zip chip, downside is it has a 3.5 inch disk installed, not much software came on 3.5 inch and its not something you can just copy from a pc drive (though you can with a old mac)
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128k ram, disk drive controller, 80 column text, high res and double high res graphics, joystick port, mouse port, printer port, serial port, disk drive, all built in to a laptop style form factor
http://oldcomputers.net/appleiic.html
whats bad about the C is no expansion slots, so your not going to add in sound cards, video cards or homebrew hardware
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get that IIc (or use applewin, its 99% dead on) and sell the plus for shipping and whatever you have into it to an apple nut, just a suggestion
IMO you will happier with the C (or emulation) if you wanna play with them and the machine doesnt goto waste
heck IF it was a //e I would have traded you outright for my working //c day one
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seems like an overly turblant market, it wasnt 5 years ago gamestops around here were selling NES games for pennies along with used computer games, now everyone is worried about what has already taken place
if you have not figured out I dont worry about the ma-pa shops, it went from a niche to oversaturation with funcoland chains back down to a niche
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poke poke poke, the only way you will figure it out
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Help with Mac Classic
in Classic Computing Discussion
Posted
you dont wanna open up a all in one mac if you are not comfortable working with electricity (there is extremly high voltage in that fragile and explosive vacuum tube along with the caps on the analog board even unplugged) , but using a null modem cable and a couple adapers is the easiest, but not fastest way to download and try new programs ... something like
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcompare.ebay.com%2Flike%2F151056891454%3Fvar%3Dlv%26ltyp%3DAllFixedPriceItemTypes%26var%3Dsbar
plus
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F3Ft-Translucent-USB-2-0-to-DB9-RS232-Serial-Converter-Adapter-Cable-3-Feet-%2F380411655390%3Fpt%3DUS_Parallel_Serial_PS_2_Cables_Adapters%26hash%3Ditem58924d34de
plus
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FHigh-Quality-Mini-Null-Modem-DB9-Male-DB9-Female-Adapter-AD912NU-%2F280817525127%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem4162076187
(I am sure you can find them cheaper, I bought my mac modem adapter for like 2 bucks), get a terminal program on both mac and your host computer (free) that supports uploading and downloading and bob's your uncle