Osgeld

yea, its not any better over here, its worse cause least on the console side its mostly transparent, I am so sick of being treated like a thief for buying a game, GTA 4 is a good example install from disk, provide CD key, pass suckurom, install social club, log in, game boots, sign in to GFWL, if your internet studders for a second game locks... for a boxed retail copy they have patched out social club and constant internet as a requirement, suckurom is still there and games for windows live, but games for windows live can be patched out with xliveless oops there I am using a third party tool to avoid a login for a single player offline game, if I dont sign in I dont get my save files and if I do it takes sometimes minuets and multiple trys for it to work ... thank you hackers now I dont have to deal with that with anything that wants GFWL logins (fallout 3 is another)

I have 2 games that I bought at retail store that reqire steam, one being a shitty D&D game, which once I install it off of disk wont let me play until I download the 2 something GIG file of the exact same data I really hate this online shit, only bought 1 game from steam, got some free ones from video cards and everything wether its steam, GFWL, Origin wants to constantly NAG NAG NAG its enough to start me pirating just to avoid their BS ... and it kills me that their game is worthless enough to be given away in bulk with a video card but they want me to jump though hoops of fire to play the thing cause its so precious

there's a border around the screen to ensure overscan of crappy tv's available in the 80's would not cut off the edges, think like a C64, if you make them puke green and your main screen is blue it just looks awful make them black

A car is a complex mechanical device that exhibits physical wear, and if you do not buy from a certified dealership the car companies are not raising a fit over every corner lot The car is sold, its none of the makers concern anymore what you do after that (aside from warranty) if you take it back to the dealership for a new one then great, that dealership gets to sell it again and the maker gets a small slice if they are a part of the certfication process. BUT! GM for instance is not installing lock out codes if you buy a used car from some guy in the paper and holding the goods in ransom for a special code rendering the product inoperable.

wut?

what would shipping to the states be without 150$ insurance on a 65$ part? I know most shipping agencies include 100$ insurance directly off the bat, and how are you getting this quote, its a solid state machine that doesnt weigh that much ... you dont have to treat it like a flight recorder

Wish I coud, I have a dead performa 200 (classic 2 with a different name) and would like to upgrade my B&W from my rev 1 SE, but I have 3 orphened macs at the moment, and its months between the urges to play with one of them ... been over a year for my powermac its a fine looking box, might want to post on macgui, and the comp.sys.mac.vintage usenet group for more exposure also 68kmla.org, those guys will buy just about anything to horde it away

since this was dug back up ... there is more to vector emulation than just a bloom effect on everything. vector displays are drawn in a connect the dots fashion which gives you the other 2/3rd of the effect, one is line wobble as the trace goes from point a to b to c and then there is the dot that it produces when it goes from c back to a that's why your missiles and the corner of the ship get bloomy with the slow delay phosphor and the intermediate points - phosphor traces don't

Id love to put one of these together but its not in the budget, meantime I have been collecting a bunch of SRAM and a couple cpu's (8088 and a 6809) feeling a homebrew coming along sometime in the future

one way to do both is to only have the important parts mount in the CV case, and run ribbon to the front connector and joystick ports

you dont wanna open up a all in one mac if you are not comfortable working with electricity (there is extremly high voltage in that fragile and explosive vacuum tube along with the caps on the analog board even unplugged) , but using a null modem cable and a couple adapers is the easiest, but not fastest way to download and try new programs ... something like http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcompare.ebay.com%2Flike%2F151056891454%3Fvar%3Dlv%26ltyp%3DAllFixedPriceItemTypes%26var%3Dsbar plus http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F3Ft-Translucent-USB-2-0-to-DB9-RS232-Serial-Converter-Adapter-Cable-3-Feet-%2F380411655390%3Fpt%3DUS_Parallel_Serial_PS_2_Cables_Adapters%26hash%3Ditem58924d34de plus http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FHigh-Quality-Mini-Null-Modem-DB9-Male-DB9-Female-Adapter-AD912NU-%2F280817525127%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem4162076187 (I am sure you can find them cheaper, I bought my mac modem adapter for like 2 bucks), get a terminal program on both mac and your host computer (free) that supports uploading and downloading and bob's your uncle

what you need is Zterm on the mac, a modem port to de9 adapter and a USB to RS232 adapter for your computer then you can download from one computer to the classic (its slow but better than nothing) PS: the linux HFS driver works fine, when I got my SE its hard disk was dead along with its floppy disk (800k anyway, pre superdisk model) so I tosseda newer 80meg apple drive in my bench machine with a generic compaq scsi card, loaded up basilisk II and installed the OS though linux though emulator and fired it right up on the mac like nothing Install-system-70-software-on-a-classic-mac-using.pdf

this does not do ethernet

what you will get is disk images in apple format, probably packed with stuffit (the worst compression program evea) so you take that, get it into your mac somehow and then it will eventually end up as a folder on your hard disk, or extracted to a floppy in mac format on your mac the trick is getting from point A to Mac

do you have another computer with a serial port? what I often do is download on my old beater laptop and use a terminal program on my SE (since its 800k floppy is useless even if it did work) to download from the laptop also running a terminal program (like downloading something from a BBS back in the day) Also I bet if you slapped a USB floppy drive on that iMac you could make your own floppies since the LCII has a 1.44 mb pc compatible super disk course none of this does any good without a mouse ... I would give you one but I only have 1 ADB mouse and 3 ADB mac's

http://macgui.com/downloads/?cat_id=53

its a coil of wire, usually 2 points are for the magnet wire inside the speaker, and the other two is what you solder on

In all honesty I never deal with people playing the guessing game, how much do you want for it with the games? how much do you want for a console with a wonky power switch which might require a 20$ + postage repair bill? how much do you want for the games? there is a lot of if's here and you as the seller need to put your foot down (aside from threats) you have the time and money in this, what do you want out of it for your heartache?

odd I spent 5 years playing it in MCGA no probelm, infact it was the default setting .. and yea the model 30-286 was vga unless modified, the 8086 model 30 was MCGA

Project Advantage: Goal: Shove a famiclone into a NES Advantage while also improving the action of the Advantage. On a trip to the Goodwill store near my work I found a POWER JOY III, NES / Famicom TV plug n play emulator, along with another SUPER JOY. After digging though the power supply bin I found AC adapters for both and scurried home. The SUPER JOY was DOA, it booted but was corrupt. The POWER JOY III however fired right up with its "76000" in one ROM with a little wiggling of its RCA jacks (cracked solder lifted copper) . What struck me about the thing was the controller portion was crap. Sure who knows how many years of abuse mixed in with the mandatory Goodwill policy of dumping everything into a cement mixer filled with water and old shop dirt caused this, but the whole unit was uncomfortable to play, and responded with mental measurable milliseconds worth of delay. Considering that the 76 ish games (modded 1000x ways getting you a BS 76000games) are mostly arcade style titles(Kung-Fu, Pacman, Galaxian) mixed in with stuff like SMB, Contra, Sports titles and Asian titles, I thought an arcade stick would be in order. And what is the one major arcade stick for NES? yup the NES advantage. I ordered one online from a game dealer (not by name cause my experience was neither horrid or great) for 6 bucks + postage, when I got it it was marked "tested" but it was funky with a extra ky. It's an old Advantage with yellow stripes where the cord was wrapped around it for decades, and at best got a surface wipedown with some mild cleaner. Three of the rubber feet were squished off position with a nice one inch slug trail of cat/dog hair and dust encrusted snot, foot number four was MIA Before I tore into the joystick I inspected the mechanics of the thing, I never owned a NES during its hey-day, and all I remember about the advantage was it was a ball of wire sitting off to the side never to be used. I inspected the mechanics of the thing and noticed it had over an inch of joystick throw, and darn near a quarter inch of button depression, and if not struck dead center they would get stuck ... normal complaints of the unit. I decided to see if I could improve its action. I quickly disassembled it and tossed it's dirty plastics in the kitchen sink with mild dish detergent and hot tap water for a good soak and light scrub. Meanwhile my focus turned to the joystick, since it had brass inserts I did not want to toss it in a bath, and opted to clean it with a qtip and some isopropyl. I thought some clickyness would be in order, but, there is no room for proper clicky switches, Instead I took some though hole tactile switches , cut two leads off, and flattened the other two . I then scrapped off the solder mask to the leads going to the original contact pads, its very simple, there is one for each direction and all are linked by a common ground. Since the switches are only held down by two out of four anchor points, I also dabbed some rubber cement under the switches, strong and sturdy, it will also come off cleanly if a reverse decision is made. The problem I see here is leverage, squash down too hard and crush a switch since you can't feel them actuating . On the plus side the joystick throw is less than an half inch giving quick and accurate movement! Moving on to the B and A buttons a similar process is done, this time using surface mount tactile switches, they just barely fit onto the scrapped off solder mask, but all four contact points are soldered to the PCB, and if a reverse decision was made, they can be removed. When test fitting the button PCB, things were just a shade too tight, upon screwing the PCB back down to its case the big orange plastic buttons would depress the tactile switches leaving them in a permanent state of "down" . In order to solve this I looked at the plastic buttons and noticed the center plunger part was too tall. I simply (ha) drilled down 42 mil (0.042 inches) below the outer collar of the button. The first button came out 100% perfect this leaves the button at its original stance with less than 1/32nd of an inch depression action, the second button I drilled too far. That sucked cause one was higher than the other (I have access to a precision mill, choose to hand drill it with a black n decker in order to save a couple days ). In the end I drilled down to 55 mil and cut off the outer collars with a xacto razor saw, which leaves the buttons all floppy if you flip the unit upside down but otherwise works just fine. The final mod to the NES Advantage PCB is to replace its standard brightness red LED's with some obnoxious blue ones, whats a mod without obnoxious blue LED's?? So I popped in a couple Cree neon blue LED intended for outdoor sign usage, the original LED's are 3mm with a 2mm diameter light pipe built in, pretty standard stuff if you know what you are looking for, so its reversible. MORE TO COME

dig up a cd rom and ply 7th guest hehe MCGA if it has it, is not that huge of a difference to VGA, most games would just toss some odd color pixels here and there

Rubber contacts for NES advantage, used but looks to be in decent condition B,A U,D,L,R no start or select, free + postage, US only please

oh I remember those tanks, um maybe, it should be equipped with VGA so you're good there, but being a 10Mhz 286 it might be slow

it did on mine, but that was a sony

I like how oculus rift is a whole new gaming experience, I have had cheap VR helmets in the past, and yea its neat ... for the first couple hours. They are front heavy, give you headaches, and make your neck hurt, people are not investing cause they are bitter old entrenched console warriors, its becuase they have already gone down that path. here is one of the sets I used to own they were light weight and sleek, till you hung them off your face and it felt like someone set a bag of potaotes on your nose an earlier set were also pretty light, until you hung them on your face, sure technology means they have better than 640x480 resolution, and smaller electronics, but there was hardly any electronics in these things, as a box on your desk did all the heavy work so it more or less kapton flex pcb to LCD screen and headphone wires to speakers. Consumer grade ABS plastic has not gotten less dense and I am just not sold on the entire idea. but dont let me ruin your fun, its only 300 bucks, thats about 50$ an hour for each one of the two I had, but you know its KICKSTARTER, REVOLUTIONARY AND BOLD!