Osgeld

I have no clue as I have not used the best boards and I don't have one assembled lol I doubt they will feel much different than a stock controller in good condition from just holding a switch in place with my finger... but those are getting rare thus the board boards should be here next friday (nov 9th) already have the switches

I have had similar models of meanwells (mainly the RT-85 which puts out +12 +24 +5) in industrial equipment, under load 24/7 for almost a decade now, only one "failed" but the supply was actually OK it was the UPS it was connected to and you cant complain about the price

Why on earth is that a selling point I dont care about A(n) ATX power supply, whats the fail rate of THIS power supply, that's what matters

I just submitted gerbers to a board house and should have a batch in sometime in 2 weeks.. The metal dome contacts in most Atari 2600 / 8 bit computer joysticks will go flat with decades of normal use, or boards need contacts cleaned etc you all know the potential controller issues. Course the darn things are taped down, so cleaning or replacing them can be tricky and a week later the damn things move around a little and your back to square 1. Course there's options like best's gold board (but that site and the minimum orders), actually some pretty good inexpensive replicas or a tactile switch mod. With the tactile switch mod requires soldering and cutting of original plastics and its not hard but its possible to screw up ... like the first one I ever did I got the fire switch slightly off center and cut the post on the fire button at an angle so if the button rotated (which it does) it would just stop working in the middle of a game Anyway rambling mode off, what I am making is a drop in replacement circuit board that uses tactile switches and does not require trimming / cutting / filing of the original plastics, it will fit in every single button Atari brand joystick I have seen to date, including the older models with the black plastic plate and springs, as well as the more modern models with no springs or plate. I am using ultra low profile C&K tactile switches that match the depth of the original snap dome contacts (about 0.55mm), that are soldered in to place (no sliding contacts) and are rated for 1,000,000 cycles (MTBF) and only require a phillips head screw driver to install And they make a little clicky sound Current plan is to offer these up for sale, I may make a little website to handle that, for 9.99$ per unit + postage (same as best's gold board price but no minimum quantities) Thanks for looking

a power transformer + colecovision brick would take up less space than an ATX supply, and probably be more reliable than the shit chi-co onehunglow half ass hacked presented here and of course the on the way properly designed switch mode power supply is about the size of a tic-tac box and the same cost of a pre-modded ATX lunchbox

ya know screw it, the xbox one has less horsepower than the ataribox but its god I give up and for the record I have not spent a cent since 2013 on my machine and it runs doom 2016 at over my 75hz monitors refresh rate at a honest to god 1080p at a higher quality than the xbox one x pro 4 3ds 720p upscaled malarkey ... and it cost about the same as a OG xbox one back in the day + I can do spreadsheets and troll forums

alibaba / aliexpress

well its turned more into "stuff is hard so screw it" the original message of the thread is the nintendo DS syndrome, we got people hooked on now 2 generations of consoles with the same name, now here's where we go from there, I never have once said PC is the master race and you pleebs need to die off. I say if consoles make you happy then you use consoles BUTTTTTT, instead we get "I dont know if my mouse is compatible with assassin's creed, its just too hard", fine whatever buy a console well guess what buttercup ... just cause it says xbox or playstation on the front doesnt mean its xbox or playstation compatible see og xbox vs 360 vs xbone, or every playstation ever, in the past they made clear distinctions, now its xbone pro 4 + new blah blah blah and in the future its not going to get better

as someone who lives like I don't make any money spending a little bit of time researching is well worth saving 150$ on a console when I could have a machine that does both work and play. That's just me though To top it off consoles have fought hard and strong, but even in the ps1 era you started seeing system requirements on back of boxes (oh you need a dual shock and 8 blocks of storage) and its progressed since then, even as we speak there's PS4 Pro enhanced games, sure you can play them on a standard PS4, but its at half the quality, so a PS4 game may not look or perform as expected just cause its a PS4 game. I dont see how that's any different, even a lot of value brand walmart computer will play all the latest games, but that is unacceptable? As far as configuration of a computer for gaming, it takes effort and reading yes I will give you that, as far as maintaining a computer, FFS I have done nothing but abuse the ever living crap out of mine and its been going on a 4 year old windows 10 install and bench marking higher than ever. The only maintenance I ever do is updates (windows and drivers for the video card, all automated) and blow out the dust every once in a while ... which you should be doing with a console that has a fan in it anyway. The 2008 computer in my garage has been running almost 24/7 outside of power outages since 2015 and its a pile of junk set up to be disposable when I am trying to do something stupid ... what the heck are you guys doing, visiting sketchy porn-n-wares.com, while turning off windows update, running XP and a router found at goodwill using the settings it came with???

I remember back when a few friends worked at funco-land and there was a pc gaming arcade type place next door (pay by the hour to frag with a entire mini mall store full of nurds) and on the other side was a comic / anime shop and FF8 had just came out so quite the collection of nurds had collected and they started the game ... I got bored of the intro, went outside to catch a smoke, came back in like 7 min later and IT WAS STILL TALKING!!! I said screw this, went back to mygame.net plopped down my 7 bucks and played lan re-volt with the other 5 people left

im just saying if pc gaming is not for you or anyone else, that is perfectly fine, what irks me is the excuses, yet another example, I cant ever get into golf cause the pants look stupid its not really the pants looking stupid, is it? and that is fine but its an outdated cliche that makes everyone's eyes roll when its uttered (I actually do like golf for the record) its ok to not like things, people dont have to defend their choices with outdated grampa simpson quotes back to your first interaction you told me to pick a computer on amazon that would play generic game, so I spent the exactly 8 seconds reading the system spec's telling me the recommended system is from 5 years ago and plopped the cheapest one in the first 5 amazon listings sorry if you felt this was a personal attack, it really was not

classic II is similar to the SE/30 except its capped at 10mb ram and no expansion slot, it would be ok if those are not a big deal (the SE/30 is capped to 8 I think unless you use the mode32 extention which makes it take up to 128 meg (unofficial, on the books its 32) , but you get compatibility issues doing so) the expansion slot is nice but unless your running like an external monitor, or network card its not 100% needed they all have a serial port, what I do on my SE is run 2 terminal programs and copy archives or disk images over bbs style (at a whopping 19200 bps) but they also have scsi so things like cd drives and zip disks are another option

explains why software is so bloated and wasteful these days again I am not faulting anyone for not being interested in gaming on pc, but its really not that friggin difficult if someone wants to and actually is interested in it again if you are not, I dont care have fun on your new xbox one 4 pro s ds light 3ds switch whatever

https://www.amazon.com/HP-Pavilion-Desktop-Computer-690-0010/dp/B07BHXTGS8/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1539908836&sr=1-10&keywords=gaming+pc is it the best gaming pc ever? no ... it will play ass creep origins just fine, the system requirements recommend my 2013 machine

personally I would not go any older / lower than a SE/30, it can handle a good chunk of ram, has a 32 bit 68030 cpu and more importantly a 1.44meg floppy disk drive anything older (like my SE) is going to have a base 68000 and 800k disks that you can only read and write with another mac drive and if your not setup for a good chunk of bull er fun they are (to me at least) some of those machines that by the time you get everything going your tired of playing with it heh there is a eralier SE FDHD which is a SE with an updated rom and a 1.44 meg drive, like an SE its limited to 4 meg of ram and its got the OG 68000 clocking in at 8mhz all the SE line has a PDS card slot so getting something like a network adapter (for file transfers) is not impossible as well

I get that and there's nothing wrong with it, but its a bit of a strawman to say that one doesnt want to worry about having to upgrade their graphics card to play a game, but not even try to look to see what they have if one does not want to deal with pc gaming, they dont have to make up thin excuses to not deal with it I am not (really) singling you out but it its one of those things like if I said I want transportation but I would not use a motorcycle cause they are hard to start and drip oil everywhere, that's not really the reason, its really that I just dont give a shit about riding a motorcycle and I am not going to come up with reasons to justify that

yea but this is a thing that's not really been a problem for several years now to a point I mean I know I am going to play games on my computer, its one of its primary functions so I am not going to go out and get a walmart special and then act surprised when the latest game doesnt run, which is what I tend to hear from people ... not only on the internet, but in real life I got a modestly cheap machine that had some balls behind it and a good graphics card for ~500 bucks in 2013 and its still running brand new games at 1080p just fine, now where the older XBoX 360 era games I could max out all the options, nowdays I have to settle for all but the ultra settings but its still going strong. The computer before that still runs modern games just fine but ya know at 720p and maybe not as many bells and whistles but its from freaking 2008, but again its not a HP I bought at big box featuring intel graphics and a celeron either Also on your last point nintendo and its habit of naming 50 different consoles the same name with some qualifier, somewhat with the gameboy models when they brought out the advance (before then any gameboy game could be ran on any gameboy) somewhat with the wii / wiiU and the absolute cluster fk of the DS line where a DS wont play new DS games ... ugh

it touches around the edges and near the cart slot for grounding

all i know is I don't want to see flo's rocketship

yea the old ones are well old and technology has gotten better so comparing a 1980's model to a 2018 model is a good difference,and current is only half the battle, dropping one's input voltage will signifigantly drop the heat produced lets assume you get a typical 1 amp max 65c per watt run of the mill modern 7805 using the stock atari supply which rides ~11 ish volts under load (+ ripple but) and the atari is sucking 380ma ...one can assume (((11 - 5) * 0.380) * 65) 148c rise without a heat sink or if we drop that down to 9 volts (((9 - 5) * 0.380) * 65) 99c rise without a heat sink or if we drop that down to 7 volts (((7 - 5) * 0.380) * 65) 49c rise without a heat sink of course you can drop this by quite a bit even with just using a ground plane on the pcb as a heat sink like the 4 switchers do ... which is why they do it lol

this is not entirely true, a 0.5 amp part with a 65c per watt will run the same temp as a 1 amp part with a 65c per watt when the same amount of power is being used its possible to get parts with better thermal dissipation but one has to scrub the datasheet

if I replace like an older generation TIA with a newer one the colors will go wonky, even if the chips look identical I usually tweak them a bit anyway

dunno I usually just use a pick and it pops right off

25 bucks shipped is my offer post a price you have in mind for all we know you pulled this out of a 99 cent goodwill outlet last week and doused it in armor all

wireless marches on but its mostly backwards compatible a BT 1.0 device will negotiate with a 5.0 device and vice versa generic 2.4 ghz bull crap on the other hand has always been a propritary link so good luck, as far as wifi the only real outlier is 802.11A otherwise anything else will play fine on a modern network (though it might bottleneck the entire network doing so) so yea wireless at this point should be an non issue, but it still can be since everyone wants to sell you 5$ controllers for 60 bucks with their own speical dongle (keyboards and mice are this way as well)