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ongikong

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About ongikong

  • Rank
    Space Invader
  • Birthday 08/01/1981

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    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  1. Did you (or someone else) try out the PAL RGB Boards yet? Would like to mod mine as well...
  2. Yes, won't win a beauty contest but it works... I simply extended the legs of the trimmer pots and soldered them in place....
  3. .... For those of you who are interested: I finally managed to get a coloured picture on my monitor and projector in 2600-mode. I swapped the 2 resistors in the CHROMA lines with two 10K trimmer pots and tweaked a little bit until the colour popped up. With the three trimmers in total there are much more capabilities now for finetuning the picture of your desired display device. - I'm happy now and can finally reassemble my console!
  4. ongikong

    PokeyONE

    Wouldn't it be possible to use a standard 36pin card edge connector, like this?: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/5530843-3/A31716-ND/770542
  5. Yes, you can reach the pots from the underside of the mainboard. There are 2 holes where you can put a small screwdriver in. There was another thread 4 days ago which talks about the B/W-2600-problem on a 7800 SECAM machine: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/291151-atari-7800-secam-question-and-information-help/?p=4274489 I have a similar problem with my S-Video modded PAL machine but not on all devices :-( Please keep us updated here.
  6. I successfully modded my PAL 7800 with Magic Knights S-Video-PCB. It gives me a nice coloured picture for MARIA & TIA on my Bang & Olufsen MX6000 CRT TV. But unfortunately I have problems with 2 other devices: My Commodore 1084S-D2 monitor and an older Mitsubishi projector (which both have a direct S-Video Input) only display a TIA picture in B&W, whereas the MARIA/7800-picture is nice and coloured. Do you guys have any idea why this happens? Should I try to amplify the chroma signal somehow? This guy here puts a trimmer pot in the chroma lines while there is only a trimmer in the luma line on Magic Knights PCB. Or is it possible to simply change resistor values to get a stronger chroma signal? I am no expert in building circuits and will be thankful for any hint...
  7. This is the serial number of my console. It has this C300452 - memory card/daughter board (see picture of mainboard)
  8. ongikong

    Mario box

    ... Mhhh strange the red square is missing :-) I also have a PAL copy in box. Bought here in Germany on a flea market several years ago:
  9. Success!!! It's alive again - thanks guys! I appreciate your help a lot! Stupid me... I had a short under the S-Video PCB where I forgot to cut off some longer blank wires. Next time I will be more investigative. Thanks again and good night from Germany
  10. Thanks for your answers and sorry if my explanations weren't that precisely. my mother tongue isn't english... :-( Yes, the inductor is NOT open. It shows continuity. So I think this is all fine! I measured the 7805 again. Sorry for reversing the in/out-voltages in my first explanation. I get about 5V in and about 0.2V out... And yes, it also gets hot pretty quickly. But more frightening was the fact that the solder under the MJE210 even began to melt after a few seconds (I guess the heat comes mainly from the center pin)... so this one is VERY hot.... So being afraid of damaging even more on the board i promptly pulled the power plug. I couldn't find that 14013 flip flop chip that often causes problems in NTSC machines. Here I found a picture of my PAL mainboard:
  11. Hey guys, maybe someone is able to help me, I'm a tech-rookie... :-) After I did a successful S-Video mod with Magic Knights PCB my 7800 died 2 weeks ago. It didn't want to start up anymore. I measured voltages at the power socket: About 14V when turned off and 9V when turned on. So the power button is not the culprit. The MJE210 transistor near the power socket got very hot, The 7805 voltage regulator behind the cartridge slot had an output of about 5V but strangely enough i measured an input of 0V... I replaced both with new parts, as well as the 2 smaller capacitors on the mainboard. But nothing's changed... It's still dead. Yesterday I noticed that the inductor(?) (circled red in the attachment) has continuity/might be "open"? Does someone may have the exact term for that part? Maybe that's causing the problems... Or are there any other ideas? Hope, someone can help! Thanks!
  12. Mhh... that sounds strange to me, as the 2600 and 7800 modes use different graphic-chips. Did you check your motherboard for bad capacitors or solder points ? Did you tweak the pots of your mod or on the motherboard? Maybe a pot is defective? Did you also check another TV/Monitor? Some monitors might not like the offered S-Video signal...
  13. Success! Plutos and Sirius run fine with the 62256 RAM, even Jinks & Mission Impossible don't bother the larger RAM... Now I'd like to know how I can disable the RAM on this board in order to start 128k-games that don't work with any RAM. @Mitch: I couldn't find any infos on this topic here in the forums... Maybe you can help once again? I'm using exactly this board:
  14. OK, thanks for your reply Mitch! I ordered a 62256 RAM now and will try to run Plutos with that. What about other 128k games? I tried to start Planet Smashers, but got those graphic glitches too... Can I simply change some solder jumpers? I found the following infos online but couldn't figure the whole thing out yet. W1 & W2 - mutually exclusive W1 - using linear, non banked rom W2 - bankswitched rom W3 & W4 - mutually exclusive W3 - using 128kb rom (pin 22 is A16) W4 - using smaller rom (pin 22 is /OE, connected to /CS) W5 & W6 - connected when not using bankswitching ... where can I find the info if a game uses bankswitching or not?
  15. No one here who can help? I guess I can simply solder in a 62256 SRAM (32K) in order to get the Plutos EPROM to work? Anyone who can confirm this?
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