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CatPix

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About CatPix

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    Quadrunner
  • Birthday 12/03/1988

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    France

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  1. I suggested inside because it would be invisible. It may not block all interferences but could do enough in this case. A Faraday cage doesn't need to be made of thick metal. You're right on the grounding part tho, I forgot about that.
  2. Never seen that kind of power strip, but; if its a plastic case, one solution is indeed to glue a layer of tinfoil inside to make a crude Faraday cage. which you'll ground to the power strip ground. Else, slide a metal sheet between the power strip and the display.
  3. Yes, this is why the FM board from Tim (the same that does the NES RGB) has a setting for "FM Japan" so games that are in PAL version and won't play the FM soundtrack will play it.
  4. Nothing outstanding here, so if you bought used/original SCART cable, you should be fine. Chinese cables are often wired straight, without any resistor, capacitor and ground bridging of all the SCART pins (and that can cause problems, too). If your cables are factory originals : they are most likely good. If they are aftermarket old ones... probably good but can't hurt to check. If they are recent eBay ones : check them. Pop the SCART shell and see if there are any missing resistors, caps. If they work, they work. If they don't, bridge the ground pins.
  5. They changed the console in that on the motherboard, the whole RGB to composite and amplifier parts are depopulated (and the RF missing, but that's a given). Basically they take the RGB unamplified signal straight to the A/V output and the amplification is made inside a separate box : (you may notice that on the output part, you have "sync" but no "composite" and yes, French SMS and Megadrive I have no composite video out. Megadrive II aren't modified and output PAL. So the "SECAM" name is a technical lie 😛 ) But I agree with you, the "resistor" method is good enough for us and our hardware. Also people at least in Germany (probably in other countries but the only few testimonies of people using SCART cables BITD I heard were from Germany) had SCART cables so most likely it was good enough outside of France.
  6. Sega Genesis 1 / Mega Drive 1 / Master System – These consoles output TTL sync from pin 1 on the A/V connector. Hmm so that might be why Sega made the French versions with a different cable output.... I heard they used a "different standard" but I never had the explanation of using TL sync. Maybe the "authorities" here deemed the resistor solution "not enough" and forced Sega to put all the amplification and sync in the "RVB" box we have. The TTL RVB mgiht be because except for France that made SCART mandatory on all new color TVs made after 1981, almost nobody in Europe had SCART-equipped TV around the late 80's (and never in the US) so people that would use the RGB out would have owned TTL RGB/CGA monitors that usually accept TTL and analog RVB signals with either TTL sync and H/V sync but maybe not csync.
  7. SCART doesn't support RGB TTL. You need a converter or a device that support RGB TTL to use in on SCART-able devices. If the system you use came with SCART natively (check if that's the case) then check the type of SCART input (A few converter devices use JP-21 that use a SCART connector but with an incompatible pinout that put the 12V in a color pin). Or the opposite, if you got a system with a SCART cable from Japan, there's a chance it's a JP-21 cable.
  8. It helped greatly! I did just the change you mentionned, and the audio from cart is noticeably stronger. Also, the TIA is also slightly more loud (usually I set up the volume on my TV around 20/25, and here, 15/20 was satisfying enough). I only own Rikki&Vikky for now as "audio-improved carts", but I had the cart audio crancked up to the max; From the tests I did, I still have a slight imbalance, but if R&V is still "low" even with the loud+ internal volume pot to the max, carts with POKEY will certainly have louder POKEY audio. Either way it maks it much more enjoyable : This is a video I make when I received my copy. And, yes, that is a video with the cart set up to the maximum sound output possible from the cart. I don't think having a POKEY chip would have been much more loud. I may do a quick video to show the difference and share your solution for the benefits of Péritel 7800
  9. Hello! I own a French 7800 here and I would like to fix that audio issue, that is apparently a common issue with PAL 7800 as well? The issue is : apparently, nobody cares. All the very rare mods I found for PAL 7800 just never mention that issue or just glance it aside as "Only a few games have POKEY so it's not important". Word I heard around is that the R5 resistor is a 6.8K ohm and should be replaced by a 18 k ohm one. Does that applies to French models too, and, where is R5? Or, what is the right solution? FYI, pictures taken on a LCD; despite my best efforts my camera refuse to take a picture of a CRT without bleaching the colors and/or focusing. Pictures are jsut there for your potential curiosity; I am satisfied enough with it - and I don't have enough 7800 games sadly. Thanks in advance.
  10. Well, I got an answer from Nicolas Bétoux (from Morphcat games) and it is an official partnership. Wait'n'see then.
  11. I see Micro Mages. Does Morphcat games know about that "system"? They certainly must have heard of it at least.
  12. I already find the regular GB SP too small! If this was GBA-format then maybe it would be somewhat better; but as it is now, there's no way I'd want it. I yearn for LARGER consoles, not smaller
  13. I mean, fair, I should have said "Famiclones pirated games". Plus, Famiclones appeared as early as 1990 (at least) when the patents were still protecting the Famicom design.
  14. Which makes me think, last time I checked Krizzk site, "buying" would redirect to their European (for me) Amazon sellers, so, can you even still buy directly from Krizzk? I did for my GB Everdrive and my MAster System ED, and it was all fine.
  15. I was thinking moral as in "beneficial for retrogaming", but I get your point And I get the financial side too, but since we mentionned pirates games, then I could counter-argue that going all emulation is entierely free. Now I'm not going to say that one solution is better than the other. There's a limited supply of games and money doesn't come cheap. For the moral side, I will expand on it : my point is more that buying Everdrives from the man who manufacture them (or authorised resellers) is beneficial for the retrogaming community as a whole. If making cheap and good carts was easy, then we would see other "legitimate" SD carts maker popping all the time. We don't see them. Either most people aren't interested in making them, or they won't because they think they can't recoup their losses in development and production time. One reason is probably that many people only care about developing carts for their favourite system or brand. Another reason is that why would they compete in offering a similar product, if they can't price it much cheaper than Krizzk, knowing that people will prefer to get the clone products from the best-know maker? The Harmony cart has been existing for about 10 years, and the price is still quite "high". I dunno about the parts used inside but the site does explain that there are irreductible costs that explain that such a low-production prodcut can't be made cheaper. Same with the Carnivore2 cart. This one is interesting because it's an Open-Source project, so basically you can see everything that is used to produce it (and get the schematics, PCB files and ROM to make your own)... And 70% of the usual price (about 100€) is for hardware. The 30% is what you can't see (shipping the parts, assembly time, etc, and marging ) so well, at least for the carnivore2 you can easily see that the price isn't some fat cat using their dominant position on the market to sell a 25€ cart with a huge bump in price. My point is that, unlike pirated games that don't hurt anyone (Can you buy a NES cart from Nintendo?) piracy in homebrew does hurt the market. Now, I don't personnaly care if you get a cloned Everdrive, and I might get one too (until I can get a legit one) at some point... but at least, be aware of the fact that it's not quite like buying a repro game from a Chinese seller.
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