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CatPix

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About CatPix

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    Quadrunner
  • Birthday 12/03/1988

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    France

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  1. If we're talking about computers, remember they were different markets. Also, having several machines in a house was uncommon at best. If the father had shelved the money to get a brand new PC, then he wouldn't be getting a Master System or Megadrive soon. Usually (and still to this day) getting a computer mean you're looking for different game styles, so a gamer choosing specifically to get a PC in 1995 wouldn't really be the prime target for a Megadrive or a Saturn. As such, offering your main games to a different platform (especially one that isn't really competing with you) seems like a clever move. Maybe you'll attract the person to your ecosystem; maybe you'll get the computer's onwer kids to ask and get a Sega machine for Christmas. Or maybe you don't, but you still got the money from the sales. As for offering their games on Nintendo systems, it's akin to Nintendo publishing games on Atari (although to be fair those deals were mostly made prior to them releasing the Famicom) : it mean your name get well-know. I'm not sure it was a thing in Europe but it probably was made in that fashion in the USA and Japan when Sega struggled to sell the SMS.
  2. Well here those low end camera didn't came till 97/98 indeed. I though the GB cam was 1995/96.
  3. What was the "core reason for it's creation" not existing outside of Japan? Also, it's easy to dismiss it as a fad, but remember that back in the day (1996?) digital cameras were military tech, satellite tech, or professionnal tech costing a grand. Here was a low grade tech but cheap, allowing peopel to take, heh. selfies... And print them! Not many devices back then offered such a novelty.
  4. If your apdater is a cable, and get the RGB and audio in, we're good on that end. One quick thing you could try is trying to link the RGB green pin and the composite video pin (N°20). You can even to it on the fly to see if it works (I don't remember if RGsB use an analog signal or a different one). If it doesn't, then yeah, you'll have to splice your cable in one way or another, and wire it to the SCART connector. I don't have a particular brand or model of NTSC to PAL converters, as if I have a NTSC system without RGB I use a NTSC-able TV, but try to take a cheap model, ironically. They will not include fancy options such as deinterlacing, 60 to 50hte conversion, etc... They'll take the NTSC signal and convert it to "PAL-60".
  5. Your "problem" here is that this converter outputs RGsB, when SCART only accept RGB with separate sync. Also what do you use for the RGB connector? I see a lot of "RGB converters" that suspiciously looks like regular composite to SCART adapters. First we need to make sure you're using the correct cable In your case the LM 1881 could help you getting a clean picture, but in the meantime, what you could do is use the composite signal as a sync signal (it's what SCART does natively so there is no problem doing it). There are NTSC to PAL converters and yes, do not worry, in fact the vast majority of those converters will output in 60 htz. Another solution would be to use a television that accept NTSC (most SCART TV made from the mid-90s onward should do, older high end ones may do) or one that accept YUV/component (the RCA red, green and blue connectors) but this connector will mostly be found on very late CRT TVs and LCD panels.
  6. For the NESRGB, it depends of the modder... etim sells the NESRGB for 125 Australian Dollars, so about 88 US$. Add up 20$ for shipping (didn't actually checked, but I'm sure it's less than that) and you come up to 108$. Modders I asked would do the job for between 30 to 60$. you end up with 168$ at worst. I suppose, if you also have to get the NES, it adds up, but overall it's a cheaper way unless you find a modder charging alot AND shipping (if the modder doesn't live nearby) is expensive for you. Also if I remember, the AVS wasn't a perfectly 100% accurate emulation machine, but it might have improved since I last heard of it. I think it depends on what you want. For someone who have a RGB-ready setup -either converters or living in Europe - the TimRGB chip is cheaper and more handy. For a less tech-inclined gamer that don't wanna bother with converters, compatibility, etc... the AVS is probably better. Also, the TimRGB board also output S-video, which may be a good compatibility point for people that have S-video setups.
  7. I already ahve it, but it's good news. Especially with how "drop-in" of a replacement it is. I soldered the yellow cable for better contact (I showcase my Astraocade at some event, and it's enough moving that I often had to open it and reclip it for better contact), but it's a solderless, no-brainer replacement. I also ran a S-video+ audio cable in place of the antenna cable and avoided making ugly drilling in the shell.
  8. I always wondered why. Maybe they were adviced that many European houses of the time were lacking in outlets (unlike the US, double-gang plug plates are uncommon) and they added cords. Or maybe some countries banned wall hogs, or limited their weight. Maybe regulations on wall hogs were different between countries (early wall hogs I see here were more "centred" as if they wanted to balance the weight), where the flat plug here is universal all over Europe (except for the UK). Maybe it's a mix of those reasons. On the same vein, the French model come with an unique pseudo-RGB out and cord, and it's ridiculously long (over 2 metres).
  9. The SuFami is more fragile on the "whale fins" and around the edges of the half shelves, especially when getting brittle, that's true. I was talking about the general feeling. For the PSU, it is odd, but maybe it's a cost-cutting decision from NOA. The European SNin simply did away and use the same power supply than the NES, down to even have the label written as "for use with (Super)NES". I should try to know if then even packed late NES with SNES PSU.... (Also, just for using power bricks with cords, Nintendo automatically wins points compared to Sega and their wall hogs)
  10. Same. I re-read it several times, and I don't get it. From what I understand, an advert (fraudulent software) runs an emulator with NES games to trick you in downloading it. I assumed I missed the meaning of it because English isn't my native language but I also suspect whoever wrote this article only half-understood what they wrote about. My best guess is they try to say that there are fraudulent apps out there, made to either suck up your data or hog your smartphone's processing power, disguising as ready-made emulator with loaded NES games. Thus you willingly download it when you see an ad for them, thinking they are legit or at least, non-harmful app, and get infected.
  11. You didn't noticed another difference that shocked me when I first got my hands on an US Super Nintendo (I grew up with the PAL version which is a Super Famicom with different labels). The plastic quality. The SuFami is molded with thick (at least 1.2mm) ABS plastic all over.Especially the top; for people that never saw a PAL SNEs or a SuFami, the gray insert atop of a SuFami is not paint, it's a physically different plastic cover that is inserted atop of the outer shell (there is plastic under it as well, it's not a hole) : This give the PAL SNES/SuFami a very robust feel; the added thickness and the general slimness provide a more "filled" feel. By comparison the US SNES feel more fragile, and hollow. (which is it, after all). I also have to afree on your feeling about the switches. Now I think the issue is that the US SNES buttons are molded in thinner plastic, and are much larger, yet they still press on the same SuFami inner switches (the motherboard is pretty much identical). It feels like the US version was designed in the same idea than the NES Zero Insertion Force connector : making it effortless. Yes, the US SNES power switch and rest buttons feel more light to press due to their larger surface to push on them, the cart ejection button is larger and has more leverage... But it come at the cost of feeling less robust overall, for a minor difference in required strength. Except maybe the eject button. I haven't tried alot with the mushy US SNES button, but the SuFami eject button can really make cartridges pop out of the cart slot toaster-like It was even a game when I was young, to find the sweet spot where the cart would leave the cart slot, but fall down and stay upright on the console. Try it, it's fun !
  12. Only on color televisions. The Commodore 64 monitor and Amstrad CPC monitors didn't had SCART for example. My guess is that Commodore decided that selling Amigas with SCART leads would allow them to sell a few more units to people equipped with SCART televisions, and also offer a branded useable monitor to people wanting to use any computer with SCART out.
  13. For the Amiga monitors, I always find it amusing that at least for the French market (maybe European) they removed the DE9 and used SCART instead. In fact on non/SCART models you can see the cut for the SCART on the back.
  14. Minimal one. Some people advice to use a cloth iron.
  15. That is impressive. I once ordered a remade shell from China, because the GB I got had been smashed and hacked (screw wells melted to allow a too large screwdriver to fit in). I kept the original D pad and buttons (the fake were much lighter in colors). I was quite impressed by the quality of the shell; without telling, most people would be fooled.
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