mkiker2089

A note for perspective buyers. If you have the black Wii u the free game will count as a purchase after you download it so you'll get 5 dollars store credit.

Don't trash them, they sell often on eBay. The problem may be that Best Electronics ran a sale on wrapped ones for 10 and resellers snapped them up. It temporarily killed the value.

Someone could port it at least. There's a fairly good (if you can call anything about this "game" good) for the Atari 2600. And yes, I own the abomonation. Collecting is a disease, don't judge me.

RetroUSB will be offering a better NOAC system with HDMI and near 100 percent compatability. That's probably the way to go. The top loader is missing the AV out so adding to the high price will be the need to get it modded. That's really the way to go however if you want original hardware. Are Nintoasters available? The hybrid models that use a toaster with a different 72pin connector so it just pushes in? I've seen them but not lately and they were crazy expensive.

I skipped generations. I had an Atari and when it wasn't popular we didn't game. I bought a NES around 1987. After the NES I bought a PS1 probably around 98. After the PS1 I bought a PS3 near 2008. Going by that schedule I'll probably get a ps5 near 2023. As you can see I prefer to wait before buying new consoles.

I got two clear carts from them for the 2600 and to be honest I bought them for that reason, they are clear hence different. David, it's good to see things ramping up finally. It seems like just yesterday that I bought one of the last Okie Dokie clear carts from you.

Tow questions 1- what was the final update on the shells? Are you going to push forward with the mold? 2- Packrat mentioned working with a friend in Canada on PCB boards. I hope that's you as I wish you much success and hopefully boatloads of money in your future. Am I correct in my assumption?

I see. So should I just give you my wallet now Certainly looking forward to it. It looks like an excellent game and I'm a bit of a sucker for these things.

Am I to assume that ColectorVision is going to publish this one and not RetroUSB like his past work? If so are you using new shells or donor parts?

I used that one myself until they put the auto 5 port on clearance. If you are lucky you may find one, but I kind of doubt it. With this device you can have both S-Video and composite hooked up and it outputs both so you just switch inputs on the TV. I see no difference at all with it's conversion and the only console I've bothered to use S-Video on looks better with composite. Maybe my TV is strange.

Sorry, I posted the wrong one. The first was a clueless guy who just hated the smell. The one up now is from someone who builds and repairs things. I trust him more.

Not my video

I've used wd40 on hard plastic as a cleaning agent for 20 years and never seen it dissolve anything. It's not really a strong cleaner but it works by coating the dirt in oil like HE laundry detergent so it will either fall to the bottom or stick to the rag. It's a lubricant WD40 is really just a mix of light weight mineral oils anyway. I've actually seen people use it like armour all on black plastic and I suspect the two are more similar than the labels would have you believe. On some things that are supposed to be dark plastic I have used it to darken it and re-apply every six months. Counts Custom Cars sells a knock off version actually for the same use. However I will defer to the experts when it comes to cleaning game systems. Cleaning goo off a cartridge and the delicate insides of a genesis are very different. Alcohol will evaporate much faster so it's probably safer on that part alone. Of course you also have to consider that some people spray wd40 on aching joints, some people use it as an air freshener, some people use it as insect repellant, some people spray it on animals to kill fleas and mites...... Don't always do what you see others doing.

No one offers any service without profit. The margin is difficult to gauge. you didn't say you wanted 4 labels for harmony carts. That's a very specialized circumstance. Pboland might be able to get a group buy or something. Then you have to consider that Batari is the person listed as responsible to the Harmony so did you ask him about it, he may be interested in helping. I don't actually own a Harmony yet but I would have assumed it had some sort of label on it. Some multi-carts do, many don't. I would have thought Albert would sell them also.

Actually 50 dollars for 20 labels isn't bad. That's less than 3 dollars a label and you can't even get cheap ebay crap for that money. I'd get the 20 and save the ones I don't need for the future. You also pay for quality. Getting a good adhesive paper is hard to find and impossible in the 4*6 size so the label maker usually either has to pay a fortune for special pre-cut labels or more likely use a sheet of 8*10 and then use a die cutter to make the shapes. Cheaper labels are often cut by hand and the results are never as good. It's hard to explain why but if you saw the two side by side you'd know it. The main issue is what it's worth to you. It's like painting a car, many people refuse as they say the car isn't worth what the paint costs. Some people do it anyway because they own the car. What are the labels worth to you. My only real advice at this point is to carefully weigh your options. Buying cheap is often worse than not buying at all.

The NES came with an AC power supply and the Genesis came with a DC one. Many aftermarket NES supplies are DC so they can make them 2in1 or 3in1. If you plugged a real NES adapter into the Genesis then you are very lucky it didn't fry something. Using a Genesis power supply on a NES however is no big deal as the NES can accept DC input. It may prefer it even based on watt readings. I'd either take the NES (assuming it's AC) cord away or label them clearly. This is not a good thing to happen. It does sound like the cart port. I cleaned mine with a credit card, wd40, and a blue paper towel. The blue shop towels are lint free and strong enough to come out without shredding. Many say to use alcohol but either is fine. WD40 doesn't conduct electricity at low voltage and evaporates clean after some time. The paper towel gets it off the cart reader. I know it sounds crazy but it works.

Only needing 4 is the problem. They have to do a lot of work to make just one label so there's no profit margin. If you needed hundreds then the effort to design the label would be spread out over a larger run. Do you already have the label designed so all it needs is printing? That shouldn't cost 50 bucks. I'm told that Staples can do labels quite well and Walgreens advertises label service but they may just be trying to get a few bucks as their photo equipment is mostly sitting idle since the digital revolution.

The correct size depends on the label and you'd have to ask the experts. I use Irfanviewer and it allows a few printing options such as exact size. I don't make labels though so you may be better off with a google search or asking someone else. You might get more answers posting in a different section as this is usually the "to buy" section.

Depends on the software. You have to make them the correct ratio then set your printer settings to the exact size down to the cm and it should just work. Some people use software to mass produce labels that will auto size them and see how many it can fit on a page, I don't have such fancy stuff.

You can email Albert through the store front. It would probably be better than sending him a message as I'm not sure he visits the forums that often. I don't know if it's something he'd want to get started on though.

Contact either Albert or Pboland. Both have the ability. If you have the designs and just need them printed then others may be able to help as well such as PackratVG http://packratvg.com/

Which Atari is this? I lost track after last years auction.

It's too bad scart wasn't an option in the US. I'm actually amazed at how long RF was the standard being that even with the Atari we knew it was crap and VCRs had composite almost from day one. I'm torn on the upscaling issue. I'm using a cheap TV and the results are good with some consoles and better with others. I think just letting the TV do it's thing is probably the best though.

Correction, I may be confused about MHL. I thought it was using the HDMI spec but I can't find much on it now. I remember the promise of Google TV sticks and such but I can't verify it now since the dream seems to have died.

It would have to convert, I forgot about that. It's not hard to convert audio to digital but it's not something to be put in a simple cable. HDMI can carry power. The new HDMI spec allows power with the intention of allowing devices like smart sticks or games to run without external power. It's also designed to charge devices like flash drives or phones. It's called MHL but so far I think Roku is the only real player to use it.