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About cschell

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  1. I'm not really involved in the classic gaming scene these days but I just heard about Curt's passing and figured there would be many here expressing their respects for him and wanted to do the same. Very sad news for the community and of course especially for his family. I first met Curt in person at the Philly Classic back in 2001. He was kind enough to let me use the 2600 at his booth to demonstrate the Cuttle Cart prototype to the public. He was always very generous with his supplies, his knowledge, and his kindness. Just an all around great guy and he'll truly be missed. RIP Curt.
  2. Thanks, same to you. I'll probably be back with a few more items to sell as well.
  3. Indeed it's been a few years since I've been here. I took the site down. Moving on and all that.
  4. LOT HAS BEEN SOLD. For sale, Atari Jaguar, Jaguar CD plus games and accessories sold as lot. I purchased these new several years ago and they got very little use. They will ship in the same shipping box they came to me which is a snug fit. Jag box is caved on front (came that way). I make no claim that any of these items are mint, all boxes have some wear. I tested the consoles and one controller recently and a couple games (CD and cart) and all worked fine. Presumably the others work as well but I did not test them all. The memory track did store and erase a name on Blue Lightning. Lot: Jaguar in box (console, controller, power supply) Jaguar CD in box (console, power supply, vid grid, myst demo, blue lightning, tempest soundtrack) Boxed Memory Track Composite Video Cable (opened w/bag) Spare controller (loose) Two controller extension cables (they're just VGA cables really) Boxed Jag Games: Iron Soldier Alien vs Predator Tempest 2000 Hyper Force Cannon Fodder Power Drive Rally Flashback Loose Jag Games: Cybermorph Wolfenstein 3D Sealed Myst for Jag CD Also some promotional catalogue flyer thing. Asking US$450.00 SOLD shipped inside USA. Payment via paypal or money order. I'll try to be faster but do to schedule and other issues please allow up to two weekends after payment to ship. I've not been on in a while but I'm guessing there are people still around who can vouch for me as a seller.
  5. It's a 16-bit multiplexed address and data bus. (The games of the day only used 10-bits though as it was cheaper.) So you'd need two eproms, a 16-bit latch and a bunch of decode logic.
  6. Try here for the FPGA http://www.questcomp.com/WebRFQ/zQuestDeta...p;stock=YesOnly They claim to have a few in stock (high temperature range version of the original part), and it looks like they are willing to sell small qty. I've never even heard of them before doing a quick net parts search though, so proceed at your own risk. Now I'd like to respond to some of the comments in this thread. It's not that I simply "won't" fix these, rather that I can't. I design electronics not build them. I am not skilled at soldering/desoldering and do not have the proper tools to pull large surface mount devices such as the above mentioned FPGA. I've responded to people's questions about repairs, part numbers, purpose of the parts, etc. I also have sent people the spare parts that I do have. As to the socket, it's not a problem of people using the wrong card. The CC2 was designed for MMC cards, which at the time of the design was the smallest form factor card available and was plentiful. At the time they actually got built MMCs were on the decline in favor of SD cards (same footprint, slightly thicker), but the SD card association would not release how to communicate with the cards unless you paid $$$ to them for the specs (the information has since been made available). So MMC it was. The RS-MMC was released later and has the advantage of being half as long as an MMC which prevents people from accidentally smashing the MMC into the cart, thus damaging the socket. I believe three sockets have been damaged. Two of them were reported to me as being caused by physical trauma, not normal use. I believe Tempest's socket failed with normal use. (And from the picture, the socket itself fell apart as the pins were still soldered to the board.) The socket is mounted as designed. It's a surface mount part and basically relies on the solder on the pins to hold it in place. There are two tiny plastic tabs that go into holes drilled on the PCB to provide additional strain relief, but the tabs are small enough to be pretty useless (obviously), especially since I didn't have a custom molded case that could apply force against the socket to keep the tiny tabs in the holes. At the time I designed these I could only find two MMC sockets available in small quantities, and this was the only one that would fit in the space available on the PCB. Move forward to today and the sockets typically have additional solder points in addition to the pins, but they're still pretty fragile really. There's just no way a surface mount part is going to readily absorb the shearing force of someone smashing the card into the socket. Fortunately these days there are much smaller form factor cards making it easier to fit the whole card inside the case. But availability of sockets in small qty is still a problem. The push/pull MicroSD card socket I used on the CC3 has already been discontinued. Modern electronics life cycles are so short these days that mechanical parts seems to come and go every 12-18 months. This is part of the reason I make limited runs and stop. If people are really concerned about their socket breaking, I agree with people's advice to use an RSMMC, and also caution you to be gentle when inserting/removing the card. In closing I didn't design the CC2 to fail, and I haven't completely ignored everyone who has had a problem. It would be nice if I had a large stock of spare parts and the ability to repair these things but I don't. Chad
  7. One of his cards is 128MB, so I don't think Windows would make it FAT12. I'm beginning to suspect a marginal solder joint on the socket. I'll probably have to end up replacing the CC3, but I'm still waiting for some more details. Just wanted to let people know that I am working with him to resolve the problem. Chad
  8. Yes, there is a BIOS in the Inty, it's referred to as the EXEC. It contains various stock routines that games can use, one of which is the standard title screen template. If the correct bits are set in the game header it's possible to skip the standard startup screen and display whatever you want. It's also completely possible to write a game that uses no part of the EXEC. Most of the modern Inty homebrews do this. Partly because the specs for the EXEC have never been released and there are some IP issues, but mostly because the EXEC is largely responsible for the sluggishness associated with Inty games and you can build a more responsive 60Hz refresh game if you don't use it. (See the Space Patrol game just released as an example.) The console will not work without a cartridge plugged in because the bus control lines are actually looped out through the cartridge and back into the console. If the cartridge isn't plugged in then most of the electronics in the Intellivision will never see the critical bus signals required to make them operate. Probably done this way with the intention that an add-on peripheral could intercept the lines and do more than just pass them through to effectively hi-jack more control of the console, but it was never done to my knowledge. As for why you can plug carts in and reset the console, that's because the reset line on the Inty is connected to the cartridge port in such a way that plugging in a standard cartridge will reset the console. Unlike the 5200 I'm not aware of this ever being announced as the way to do things on an Intellivision, which makes me suspect this could be bad for either the cart or the console. Most modern hot-swappable devices ensure that power and ground connect before any I/O pins so that the hot-swapped part is in a known state before I/O is active. That's not true on Intellivision carts.
  9. I'm confident they'll still be available a few weeks from now, most likely even a few months from now. Chad
  10. Hi Everyone, I ran into our faithful moderator CPUWIZ at CGE this year, and after he got over the shock that I wasn't a 6'10" crazy old wizard looking guy , he suggested to me that the classic gaming general forum was a little low on the visibility side and I should announce the CC3 here in the marketplace forum. So I'm taking his advice. Intellivision Cuttle Cart 3's are now available for US$150.00. Details on my website. http://www.schells.com/cc3.shtml Basically it's a MicroSD card based menu driven multicart for the Intellivision similar to the Cuttle Cart 2 for the Atari 7800. Thanks for the tip CPUWIZ. Chad
  11. Seeing as I don't even have an email list for CC3 customers, I'd say it would have to be a mass emailing. Chad
  12. He certainly did not receive it from me. I do not give out customer information to anyone (I don't know if you're a customer or not), I do not send or support the sending of unsolicited emails, and I do not support the distribution of the ROMs owned by Intellivision Productions by anyone other than Intellivision Productions themselves. This person is not affiliated with Schell's Electronics. Chad (Who actually received an email as well.)
  13. A copy of Intellivision Space Patrol (moon patrol clone with additional planets for more variety) was available for play as well, and I showed the Cuttle Cart 3 to a few people. Space Patrol http://spatula-city.org/~im14u2c/intv/spteaser/ CC3 http://www.schells.com/cc3.shtml The museum had quite a large selection of Intellivision stuff on display as well. Chad
  14. Just a heads up to anybody who decided/is considering to go this route. These cards come formatted FAT12, which the CC3 does not support. And, annoyingly enough Windows seems content to format them to FAT12 by default as well (despite the MS white paper that says they never use FAT12 for anything except ancient tiny floppies.) Anyway, if you pick one up, here's the windows command to force them format to FAT16. format [drive letter]: /fs:fat /a:512 Replace [drive letter] with the drive letter for your SD card. (Be careful, formatting the wrong drive will destroy all data on that drive.) Yes, it has to be done from the command prompt. The GUI will format it to FAT12. This is only for the 16MB cards. Chad
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