7800

What about the composite audio and video outputs? Does the video out also separate the chroma and luma?

Just so I understand, an AV modded 5200 will show color loss on those games... even on a CRT? I have a modded 5200 and use the s-video output --- through an RF Modulator, but instead of using the composite output for an LCD, I use the coax output to an older CRT. The picture quality is still better than stock composite even though I downgrade from s-video to coax (composite)., I assume because the audio signal is isolated...

Was that from screwing it back together? Ouch!

Atari 2600 paddles are always on ebay. Get a nice set cheap, take 'em apart, clean the hell out of them, and you'll have yourself some paddles that work as if they were brand new.

Are you taking apart the pots? You need to really get in there with a q-tip and some cleaner and get rid of all that build up. Some people say spraying a bit of WD-40 in the pot does the job but I don't think so. My paddles work perfect after a thorough cleaning on the inside of the pots. Clean them, then add a tiny bit of lube to the contacts.

I personally would buy a stock one. Some people sell rebuilt stock ones on ebay, or you can just get a used one that works. But ultimately, get in the habit of UNPLUGGING it after your done using the system... this goes with any old game system.

I just acquired a SVAII and my 2 cents on the controllers are as follows... The controller casing design isn't bad and relatively comfortable. The inner workings of the stick are cheesy. It's basically like a Proline controller where you have a white plastic mechanism that actuates the dome switches on the board as you move the stick... but you really have to press hard to get the little white plastic tabs to activate the dome switches. Same with the fire buttons, they have a little tab that slides against the dome switch and a straight spring that keeps it all together and provides the feedback... but again, you need to really press it. If this board had tactile "clicky" switches and coil springs it would probably work better with less effort. If the paddle pot needs to be cleaned, you will have a hell of a time trying to pry off the knob/joystick to service the pot. Otherwise I find it more comfortable to hold than the Proline. I may buy a Coleco Gemini combo controller and see if it works... and if it doesn't, I will swap out the harnesses to make it work. I assume the pot is standard with all systems being a 1mohm type.

The Punch Out music in the NES version of Stargate ruins it for me.

I just bought a SVAII and the system works beautifully. However, The controllers are a bit flaky. After taking one apart I discovered that the directional mechanism for the stick movements as well as the fire button aren't very reliable. Each dome switch is actuated by a flimsy plastic mechanism SLIDING over the dome, instead of a direct PUSH DOWN action. The plastic tabs that push on the domes tend to bend out over time resulting in the tab not pressing the dome the way it should. Anyone out there ever mod one of these with different tactile switches or something even more radical? Also due to the design, looks like the pot for the paddle is going to be hard to get inside of to clean it. I'm assuming the paddle dial is like the 5200 and 7800 stick knobs and pull off with enough force. Any hints?

I was just playing Punch Out the other day... hadn't played it in over 20 years. I was absolutely amazed and found a new appreciation for the game, especially for an earlier NES cart... very cool game.

Or JUM52 for mac.

Agreed, The 5200 controller needs to be used every so often or it will fail, but that's only because of the way it was designed. Pots can get flaky if not used for years and the button contacts get oxidized. Although a revolutionary design in it's day, I think the 5200 controller could have been designed better if more time was given to the designers during production. There isn't much that could be improved upon with the analog controls but the flex circuit, harness, and rubbery buttons are IMO the worst part of the design. The buttons should have been hard plastic with some sort of spring action mechanism that made contact with a board instead of a ribbon. The Trak-ball has some ofl these improvements which is one of the reasons why it is considered a solid, reliable controller. I'm glad Atari had the intention of making the stick self centering but can also understand why it never happened. In the end, I think of the CX-52 as a controller that should have evolved and improved, but stayed in prototype mode throughout it's production.

So, It's like a "go between" for the port and the joystick plug? The 5200 could use these.

Gee, I'm sorry... was that a stupid question? *sigh*

What is a port saver? Any pics?

My opinion, older consoles were never meant for modern LCDs. If you can get a good Sony Trinitron CRT, do it. These systems look their best on CRTs. Are they bulky? Do they take up a lot of space? Yes! But you won't get the black levels and phosphor glow with an LCD. I recommend Sony because back in the day, they made the best TV's ... the hold up VERY well.

I mean if you have an old CRT with just the coax input, and use an RF modulator with an s video input... the picture on a modded console STILL looks better then the stock composite output. In other words, modded is just better no matter what the purists say.

Exactly, and S- Video even looks better downgraded through an RF Modulator for CRT's that don't have the AV jacks. I'm strongly considering an AV modded 7800 from Best Electronics.

This is very cool to be honest. However, I would rather have an SD cart.

I wouldn't buy it unless I was given permission to take it out of the box/foam and visually inspect it for damage. The translucent plastic pieces are very susceptible to shattering or cracking. As far as it being truly NOS... I doubt it. To me NOS would be sealed and never hooked up and used. The pink plastic on the metal trim is a plus though. Hard to say what it is worth because like so many have already said, it's worth what someone is willing to pay for it. I would love to see pics of this to be honest.

I'll tell you one thing... If I was in a position to view the item in person before buying it... and if the console was in mint condition, and I mean not one ding in the metal trim pieces... I'd gladly hand over $185. It does suck when the seller doesn't want to budge... it feels like they get the advantage. If I was selling it, I'd mark it up to haggle down. If it were me, I'd probably pull the trigger... and I don't even need it.

Just bought one off ebay. Has original box, manuals, both controllers, RF switch, adapter, Star Raiders Keypad, and seven games.. one of which is Telegames Outer Space. $75 shipped.

Wow! I love the name... reminds me of Buck Rogers in the 24th Century.

My opinion, $185 is a good deal. Make 'em an offer for $150 cash. ... because you will more than likely need to put money into the controllers.

It's only the translucent plastic pieces that are very brittle. When I sent out my 5200 for an AV mod, I took off the top piece and sent the rest... because I knew that it might get damaged.