Fox-1 / mnx

Like, a B/W one? :-)

Load the ATR with Altirra. Save the image from the disk drive menu and you'll end up with a proper sized ATR.

You don't. A real cartridge is the actual memory. Only a small part of it will be transferred to Atari RAM. The majority of the code stays in the cart because it's just ROM (like RAM, but read only). There are exceptions where all code will be transferred to RAM but these are not real carts. Those are just data carriers.

I don't think it works like that. Covox is to replay pre-recorded 8-bit samples. Not to record them yourself.

Yes, that much. 37K For a system without DOS or anything sounds right to me.

192 Is like the default E: editor so that may be considered as official and recommended I guess. The fun about recommendations is to not stick with it, whenever possible. This would be a pretty boring place if everyone did it the official way.

Looks like the wrong O.S. is active. The colors... that's just the attrac-mode kicking in.

If it turns out to be beyond repair, put in something like this: https://usb.brando.com/usb-cassette-mp3-player-ii_p01481c0035d015.html Yeah I know, it isn't anything to a working original but it now has at least some kind of use. b.t.w, there are much cheaper versions around, some with recording ability too.

If the eject button itself stays too far down it's probably a common problem. There's a tiny pin on the inside of the button that's, well, just too tiny and those easily break. With some patience and some glue you can make a new pin. The buttons are hollow but can be filled with a piece of plastic, or even wood, to get a stronger base to fit the new pin onto. Many years ago I fixed one of mine by just cramming a piece of wood in it with a simple nail, bend into shape to line it up at the right place. Another way is to switch the plastic button with another one. They are all the same, mounted side by side on a metal rod. If you take out the rod all buttons come off and you can rearrange them. As the pause button is rarely used you can swap it with that one.

You really need to provide more info. Or a much better photo.

What 1050?

I can only think of one as far as talking in-game, which is "A Forest" from "the Cure" as used in the game "Trix". All others aren't in-game, like "Saltarello" from "Miecze Valdgira", to just name one..

Using the paddle signals as fire buttons is quite easy, hard- and software wise. Basically, the buttons just cutting short the pot meters, giving them a low value. In BASIC you'd use: IF PADDLE(0) <3 THEN.... for first extra button IF PADDLE(1) <3 THEN.... for second extra button The paddle conductors need to be present in the joystick cable.

Why stop at just 1 extra button? http://mixinc.net/atari/pinouts/powerpad3.htm http://mixinc.net/atari/pinouts/powerpad3man.htm If you, or anyone else, wants to support multiple buttons, at least try to stick with a design that already exists.

Quite impressive. Lot's of different P/M's to keep it interesting without getting bored. Speed is good too. Only difficulty I have are the controls because I'm used to the asteroids style of thrust and steering but that's just me I guess.

If you never use a null-modem cable it's of no use, but if you do... It's just a small box with a 9-pin male at one end and a 9-pin female at the other. The rewiring/cross-wiring will be done inside that box. That way you can always use a regular 850 cable. If you need to connect a modem, don't plug in the box. If you need a null-modem connection, plug in the box.

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/276068-unarchived-software/?do=findComment&comment=3976772 A few post further lists the PDF manual edit: Nitelite BBS, that is

Some info and ROMs. Most has been published by Bob Woolley once. http://atari.fox-1.nl/atari-400-800-xl-xe/400-800-xl-xe-tools/atari-815-roms-and-manual/

I usually don't make null-modem cables but a custom gender-change-like / breakout-box thing in stead. Depending on what you already have laying around, cable-wise, this may be more useful.

You'd better not make that a habit :-) I knew it was that but just wrote it different for some reason. Confusing when STARTing to SELECT OPTIONs

It basically is a lightgun, but smaller. The tip houses a small LDR that you need to point to a TV tube. The LDR "reads" the pixels projected by the Atari. Because the Atari exactly knows where each pixel is, it also knows the location of where the pen is pointing by detecting the pixel and feed the data to the joystick port. The cartridge is probably MicroIllustrator. It's to draw pictures with the light pen. b.t.w, it doesn't work on LED and/or LCD screens. It requires a real tube screen.

That should be SELECT+OPTION to freeze, then START to save. Just tried it with Altirra 3.10-iest21 and a random ATR (Lode Runner, color modded) and it works. Mileage will vary. It functions pretty much the same as the TurboFreezer but it's just software in RAM so clashes may be expected.

Depends on what the UDS requires but usually devices must be wired with a straight cable (null devices = null modem). In case of a PC this would be simple pin #1 to pin #1, etc... but with an P:R: you need to wire so that the signal names match. DTR to DTR, etc... PIn #9 (on both PC and P:R:) is RI which is not used with a null modem but will probably with a real modem. Or look above for the CX88 :-)

That's the one. Saves me some time to dump it myself. The "Freezer" I have is Ver. 1.0, 1986. I wonder if there were other versions.

The pinouts are not the same as PC. They are the same as on an Atari 850 http://atari.fox-1.nl/atari-400-800-xl-xe/400-800-xl-xe-tools/null-modem-cable-wiring/ (this is for null-modem)